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It's the Stonewall Attack. Wherein white's only real hope is that you'll make multiple positional blunders like playing a passive e6 line after he's already shown his cards, hemming in your c pawn with a premature Nc6, or weakening your kingside to no real effect with an early f6.
A couple good plans would be...the kingside fianchetto as you'd see as the mainline against the Dutch Stonewall by black. Your g6 pawn advance serves to dull the prospects of white's one dimensional attack based on the d3 Bishop, and a later Q-side bishop fianchetto will pressure his weakened h1-a8 diagonal.
Or a sort of reversed London, where the early Bf5 pretty much lays white's plans to waste and forces him to play from early equality with a plan completely different from whatever he was hoping to do.
Or a simple mirror-stonewall setup of your own, if you're super patient and don't mind long, dull grinds. Pretty much gives you insta-equality and denies white the pawn levers he's assuming he'll have at his disposal. This is probably your most insipid choice, but it's also the one that will most quickly discourage future stonewall attacks against you.
There are more ways, but those aren't bad choices.
This is the stonewall attack. It's a system where White puts pawns on c3, d4, e3 and f4 and tries for a kingside attack. The "trick" to the stonewall is knowing how to defend the cheapos on h7 and trying to get an endgame where White only has his dark-squared bishop. There is no way to attack it that I know of. You have the Black pieces after all. I like to fianchetto against most d-pawn speacials.
search "stonewall legacy at youtube" very nice video series for counters against this setup .
Here's a nice look at the stonewall:
If your opponent hands you full control of square e4 on move 2, then you say thank you and make maximum use of it.
My suggestions, which may not be the most sound but may be more practical in bullet:
For this move order, try:
The point of the above is not to allow white super-easy, no thinking moves in bullet or blitz that really saves clock time. But for longer time controls, yeah some study of these stonewalls is needed.
Like someone here probably said try trading off lightsqured bishops. In such closed positions even a rook is worth less than a well placed knight. Notice how weak the backward e-pawn pawn is. Bishops defend weak color complexes.
I'd try 3...c5 before Nc6 to increase tension in the center.
10...e5 looks worth a try to me cracking their pawn structure even if you end up losing a pawn.
For longer time controls, yes, I'd do 3...c5. But as I said, in short time controls like bullet, getting rid of a white piece that he depends on for easy, automatic moves helps.
Besides, after 1. d4 d5 2. e3 Nc6 3. Bd3 Nb4, black can aim to play c5. I've also experienced from the black side the white kingside rook going Rf3 and then Rh3, followed by Qe1 and Qh4, or white throwing forward his kingside pawns to open lines for his/her rooks.
Against queenside castling, white is able to move his queenside pawns forward to attack.
Is queen side castling a good idea for stonewall attack?
I don't know. One of the main problems White has is the bishop on c1. I'm not sure how you'd move it. Maybe you could try some kind of b3, Bb2 plan and castle long but this is slow and Black might be able to get play against the king over there quickly since he's usually better there. Usually White's king is safe on the kingside anyway.
This is transposing into a Bird opening, Stonewall Variation. The best idea to play with this with black is to play simmetrically, I mean with the pawns on f5, e6, d5, or fianchetting on the Kingside.
I play this opening with white but I play Something like 1.d4 (d5 or Nf6) then 2. Bg5 and my bishop is not in the pawn structure
Once you play Bg5 you aren't guaranteed the stonewall setup anymore.See: http://www.chess.com/forum/view/chess-openings/is-there-anyway-to-make-this-work-tromp
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