If you could permit me to briefly summarise my situation, as it is relevant:

I started relearning chess about January/February [My father taught me how the pieces moved when I was a child, that was about as far as I progressed] and I'm looking for some openings to explore. I originally started learning chess again for a very specific reason. One day I noticed my friend playing someone at chess at school, as a joke I thought I would challenge him to a game. Now I obviously was prepared to lose I hadn't played since I was about 12 years old, but I wasn't prepared for this kid to be the most smug, conceited arsehole about it. I resolved that day to learn chess all over again and beat him before the end of the school year. Now as it happens I've discovered I actually love chess a huge amount which is wonderful, but the school year is nearly out and it is getting rather pressing.

 

He was white in our last game so I'll be white in our rematch so defenses aren't as important at this point. I also know a few things about his style of play that my friend, who is coaching me, has told me. I was wondering if it was possible to adapt myself to an opening that would exploit these.

 

He has a predilection for passed pawns, he also greatly favours material exchanges as his end game play is particularly strong. Are there openings in which an opportunity for a passed pawn is something that should be missed, and he might stumble into? How is it best to avoid his material exchanges, or know when they work best to my advantage? [I realise that last question isn't that relevant to openings]

 I also know that given the chance he will almost certainly play the four knights game, does this help at all?

 

I realise this is quite a long post, it's really all a bit of fun and nothing you should all take seriously. Just wondering if anyone could help.

Hi, the best way to improve your playing ability is simply to do a lot of tactics; however, as you seem to be in a hurry, there is not a real chance for great improvement out of training- the only chance you have is to learn about some nice traps and hope that he's stumbling into them!

The best traps are usually found in Gambits, and Gambits also have the advantage that a lot of them end in the middlegame and you don't even reach an endgame. Since your opponent answers with e5 to your e4 move, you have a variety of gambitlines to chose from.

You should look up the nordic Gambit and the fried liver attack, since you don't always get into lines that allow an Evans Gambit, and Kings Gambit needs a lot of learning and practice. Maybe you find something that suits you :)

First of all, it's fantastic you're coming back to chess. It's a heck of a lot of fun, so enjoy!

Second, I understand a little about where you're coming from in terms of combatting the smugness. Early in college, I lost an argument (badly) about priestly celibacy to a Protestant friend of mine. At that moment I resolved never to be caught out like that again. Twenty years later and I'm still trying to keep my Biblical Greek sharp. Anyway...

Assuming your opponent will respond with ...e5 to your 1 e4, it seems there are three potential approaches:

1. Gambit (that is, give away) a pawn with 2 f4 (the King's Gambit). This is an opening that you have to justify by launching an attack, so it's a tricky one to start with. On the plus side, your opponent gets stuck in your (knowledge) territory right at the beginning. Given your beginner status, this is the riskiest choice, but you might learn a lot in the process.
2. Sidestep the Four Knight's game with something easy like the Center Game (1 e4 e5 2 d4 exd4 3 Qxd4). Again, you get the opponent "out of book," as we say, right off the bat, and with somewhat less risk. If he tries to trip you up with the Peterson Variation (2 d4 Nf6), I recommend 3 Bg5--my feeling is that this is worse than 3 dxe5 Nxe4, but it's easier to understand.
3. Move away from 1 e4 altogether. The standard advice is for beginners not to play 1 d4 or 1 c4, but they're perfectly playable and it's possible your opponent will have no knowledge either. Play a system such as 1 d4 followed by 2 Nf3 and 3 Bf4 and you'll be fine.

Good luck! If you can record your game, post it here.

 

If he likes solid positions and endgames, then gambits might be a good idea. Something similar to the Center Game but a bit different is the Danish Gambit. It goes: 1.e4 e5 2.d4 exd4 3.c3 dxc3 4.Bc4 cxb2 5.Bxb2. White sacs two pawns but his bishops are very strong and threaten to destroy Black at any moment. It's a dynamic, unbalanced positions--one where you should have an advantage, especially if you're aggressive / tactical and your opponent likes quiet / solid positions. Here's a sample game between two top players:

Of course, gambits are risky--you could win, you could lose.

If you can taunt your opponent into trying to beat you... in other words you are content with a win or a draw... you can play a solid opening like the Ruy Lopez / Exchange Variation: 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Bb5 a6 4.Bxc6 dxc6. Now you have a better endgame pawn structure and your opponent has something to prove in the middlegame. Your chance of losing is smaller playing this way. Although you may only draw.

likesforests thats like a kingside bdg weird

you might want to try the hippo

If I were you, I would play the King's gambit. Just remember that after he takes your pawn, you should move either B-QB4 (Bc4) or Kt-KB3 (Nf3). If you move the bishop and he checks your king, move it to KB1 (f1). Your bishop should move out on your next move if you moved your knight first, or vice versa  (unless he attacks your king's pawn with the knight, in which case you choose between defending it with the queens pawn and discovering an attack on the gambit pawn, or defending it with a knight and potentially connecting your rooks). If he moves his King's Knight's pawn so it attacks the knight on KB3 (f3) after you've moved your king's bishop out, don't move the knight!! Castle, and when he takes the knight with the pawn, take the pawn with your queen. From here on out you have to be attacking intensely, but you should AT LEAST draw. Just remember not to exchange queens, and if his queen moves to KB3 (f6), attack it with a pawn on K5 (e5) after queen takes pawn, sacrifice your bishop! Then attack the queen with the queen's pawn, and after the queen takes the pawn with check block it with the bishop. Now you should have a winning attack, like so:

Of course, your opponent may play the Fischer defence (P-Q3 or d6). In this case, remember that moving the Queen's knight at the right time can be decisive, combined with moving the queen's pawn up, gaining space, and attacking with all of the pieces on the kingside. Just castle and make sure your own king is safe. I would castle kingside, but if given the opportunity it's occasionally better to castle queenside. I would look over Spassky's victory over Fischer at Mar Del Plata, and also the Immortal game for inspiration. Also, make sure you are at least some familiar with the Falkbeer countergambit (I hate playing against that). Have fun! 

The Gambit King

I am also happy that you have returned to the addictive game of chess. If you are anything like me, then you will enjoyment of the game of chess will be more fulfilling than it was in your younger years. You will find yourself saying, "I wish I had known that when..."

I like the way you phrased your questions. Oftentimes, chessplayers wish to memorize openings and defenses. I think it's more important to know what you want to do in the opening. According to your post, you want to do the following things:

1. Avoid an endgame.

2. Avoid minor piece trades (I think you really want to trade on your terms).

If these pretty much summarizes what you want to do, then I believe the Danish Gambit is perfect. Here's four reasons why:

1. As demonstrated in 'likesforests' example, white's bishops are on squares that make it difficult for black to initiate trades.

2. Because of the space created by the removal of three pawns, White has serious early knock-out potential.

3. If your opponent likes to attack, then the Danish Gambit will frustrate him by making him play real defense. White's tempo advantage is something to which Black must immediately respond.

4. Do you remember when your dad taught you how to play? Didn't he tell you that the 'object of the game is to checkmate your opponent's king...'? Many players who study openings and defenses forget this fundamental truth. The Danish Gambit is good in this respect, because it's tactics lead to checkmate.

Might I suggest that you play blitz (LIVE CHESS) games to practice this gambit and to sharpen your tactical eye. The Danish Gambit seems to suit your wants, but any gambit that puts immediate pressure on f7 (especially when Black plays 1...e5) is worth the pawn you give up as long as you don't give Black time to adequately defend that square.

Lastly, remember the function of your pieces, for this will help you determine when trading is to your advantage. For example, knights are strong offensive pieces, but (in my humble opinion) knights are terrible defenders of anything because they're so easy to move. That's a tactical tip: when you see your opponent protecting something with a knight, see if you can make him move (perhaps by trade). Bishops and rooks are good in open spaces. And if you are on the attack, avoid queen trades. Hope this helps.

 

I am pleasantly surprised that most of the members are suggesting the Danish Gambit, a daring two-pawn sacrifice! Even though traditionally I've had more success with the King's Gambit, if you're looking for absolutely the best attack you can achieve the Danish is probably you're best option. I like it (it's probably my second-favourite opening) because every single move from the start threatens something; to take a pawn, regain the pawn and make a central pawn, win the pawn back and develop the knight, etc. ... The only thing I've ever wondered about with the Danish Gambit is some of what to do immediately after the opening. For instance, often your opponent will play a check, and normally I've blocked it with the knight, but now I'm starting to do it on Q2 (d2) so I can kick the bishop with either a pawn or the queen which will also threaten KB7 (f7). However sometimes I've even seen moving the king in response to the check to KB1 (f1)!! This seems like it ruins the wonderful position somewhat in not letting white choose where to castle and letting both rooks come into play, in addition to losing time in development, but there might be strategical reasoning behind it. Anyways, I'd love to hear your comments on this... Thanks for letting us be your advisors in your 'war room', JauntyAngle.

The Gambit King

This is all wonderful advice thank you.

 Feel like I should point out at this point that I'm not really 'returning' as such. When I said my father taught me how the pieces moved that was really all I meant. I'll read more into this Danish Gambit then, this is all very exciting.

If you're still a beginner I don't advise the Danish gambit because it does take some skill to pull it off- even GMs shy away from it these days, but it's very playable. You may want to try a Vienna gambit: 1.e4 e5 2.Nc3 Nf6 3.f4 which is like a delayed kings gambit but less dangerous.

AnthonyCG> If you're still a beginner I don't advise the Danish gambit because...

AnthonyCG> even GMs shy away from it these days, but it's very playable 

I think the reason GMs shy away from it now is because theoretical antidotes have been found and players at that level have memorized them. In the past it was dangerous even at the top ranks, as the above game illustrates.

AnthonyCG> it does take some skill to pull it off

It takes preparation to pull off. Certainly, the original poster should not try it for the first time in his big game--he needs to play some practice games. I culled my database for some quick stats on its soundness at various ratings:

   At the >2200 level it scores a miserable 32%

   At the <2000 level it scores 57%

   At the <1600 level it scores 59%  

   At the <1200 level it scores 71%

Also, he should take care that his opponent does not learn about this surprise weapon before the big game--or he might ask here for the antidotes. ;)

Research the king's indian or dragon, look for the pins on the knights early in the game eg, knight to king or knight to queen if you are afraid of the four knight attack. If he likes to use his pawns just remember the knight can always skip past them and the rooks can protect the back ranks, and always watch out for the forks with the knights both your's and his, and dont rely on the danish gambit just yet, there are much simpler ways of using those pieces rather than just opening your minor pieces, remember that if you use all your pieces as a team they can usually push your opponent back. Simplify the situation.

What you need is a book on tricks and traps so you can get an early material advantage since he favors trading off everything to arrive at an endgame where he shines. By gaining a material advantage early, it is to your advantage to exchange everything off, not his. 

AnthonyCG wrote: If you're still a beginner I don't advise the Danish gambit because it does take some skill to pull it off- even GMs shy away from it these days, but it's very playable. You may want to try a Vienna gambit: 1.e4 e5 2.Nc3 Nf6 3.f4 which is like a delayed kings gambit but less dangerous.

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You're right... it is a bit safer, and I've had more success with it. But for an all out attack the Danish is better... I wouldn't rely on 'traps' (besides, this is just for fun  and you're trying to learn, right?)... but really, just play whatever you're comfortable with. Find your inner style. If you ask five people what to do you can get five different answers sometimes...

 The Gambit King