Hi,

I'm sure many of you have heard of the chess variant called "Bughouse", also known as "Double Chess". I keep losing, so I'm wondering if anyone have any advice in regards to playing bughouse. Help please?

Try not to leave many holes in your pawn line. Probably best to stick to center openings. Also i think the point value for pieces is different.

 

Sorry, can't really add much. 

It has been many years since i played this, but the way we used to play it seemed like f7 and f2 were always great points to attack. Also pawns can cause alot of damage when played on the right squares so sometimes you are better off if your partner gives you pawns rather then pieces.Good luck

Knights are very deadly in this chess variant.  Ask your partner to give you nights for easy forks to win pieces.  

P.S.  It would be great if we could have a Free bughouse feature on chess.com 

yeah... it would be nice to be able to play bughouse here

Agree with futuregm and chessy 

I love bughouse... It'd definitely be a fun addition here.  So I'll say "Agree with futuregm and chessy and pompom"

 It can be a pretty hard game to actually strategize much for, though.  I'd say just pay attention to what pieces your partner needs, and make sure he knows what you could use.

Don't castle. 

Knights are everything since mates with them can not be blocked.

Create powerful pawn chains with your dropped pawns.

You have to be clinically insane to play this game :-)  anyway, I've never played...I don't hardly play speed chess, so I looked at this one with crossed eyes :-)  But it is awful fun to watch!

Credit for these tips goes to the Hawaii State Bughouse Champs.  

1. Moving non-center pawns is risky and should be avoided unless necessary. Pieces have easy access into your position through piece drops, and any "holes" can be taken advantage of. Likewise, moves to create holes are very useful (P@h6, etc.).

2.  The best strategy is attacking, as fuel for the fire can be quickly received through piece flow. In contrast, positional play is too slow for the game; why attack a weak pawn when you get one instantly through a teammate's piece trade?

3. Important! Play two(count em, two) boards, and not just your own. Know when trading is ok, and know when it should be avoided. Make sure you and your partner have good communications as to what pieces are good and what pieces are bad (for the opponent to have.)

4. Sacrificing a piece is often worth opening an opponent's king position, but only if an attack can be continued. Do not simply sac then nag your opponent for pieces as you may not get them.

5. The f2/f7 squares are the weakest on the board (being only protected by the king) so, as a rule of thumb, attacks are quickest through these squares. An often seen remedy for sacrificial attacks is 1...e6 but a good response to this move is "laddering" (See tip 8)

6. Make sure you King's bishop is always developed. The king needs breathing room in case of a sacrificial attack, and often the safest square is f1/f8.

7. Play fast! In most games, time can be a deciding factor. Players can stall for a needed piece if they're up time, but have to move if they're not.  In some situations, mate can only be avoided through a piece drop, but if they're down on time, then its game over.

8. "Laddering" is a plan that consists of connected pawns toward an opponents position, and is very useful in cracking a cramped position. An example of a ladder is: 1. d4 d6 2. e4 e5 3. d5! Be7 4. Bc4 threatening P@e6 with a strong attack. Note: The french advance (1. e4 e6 2. d4 d5 3. e5!) is a very good opening in "bughouse" compared to its normal chess mimic. The routine 3...c5 merely creates holes in blacks position at c7 and d6, and white has already begun a "ladder" towards d6 or f6.

9. A piece in hand is worth two on the board. Placing a piece down to check or to merely threaten a piece is a waste of your teammate's hard work (in getting the piece.) Use your own pieces till pieces in hand can be put to optimal use.

10. Castling is, for the most part, not recommended. Knowing where you king lies makes it easier for an opponent to know where he should concentrate his pieces. It also takes a move, which is crucial in bug.

Have fun! Just remember its always your teammate's fault if your lose, and if he/she complains, just tell him/her to get better! Likewise, if you win, then its all you baby! Gloat and complain to your teammate that he didn't do a thing (if your teammate is the one who mated, then just say he couldn't have without your pieces!). 

:o) 

 

Nimzo33 wrote:

Credit for these tips goes to the Hawaii State Bughouse Champs.  

1. Moving non-center pawns is risky and should be avoided unless necessary. Pieces have easy access into your position through piece drops, and any "holes" can be taken advantage of. Likewise, moves to create holes are very useful (P@h6, etc.).

2.  The best strategy is attacking, as fuel for the fire can be quickly received through piece flow. In contrast, positional play is too slow for the game; why attack a weak pawn when you get one instantly through a teammate's piece trade?

3. Important! Play two(count em, two) boards, and not just your own. Know when trading is ok, and know when it should be avoided. Make sure you and your partner have good communications as to what pieces are good and what pieces are bad (for the opponent to have.)

4. Sacrificing a piece is often worth opening an opponent's king position, but only if an attack can be continued. Do not simply sac then nag your opponent for pieces as you may not get them.

5. The f2/f7 squares are the weakest on the board (being only protected by the king) so, as a rule of thumb, attacks are quickest through these squares. An often seen remedy for sacrificial attacks is 1...e6 but a good response to this move is "laddering" (See tip 8)

6. Make sure you King's bishop is always developed. The king needs breathing room in case of a sacrificial attack, and often the safest square is f1/f8.

7. Play fast! In most games, time can be a deciding factor. Players can stall for a needed piece if they're up time, but have to move if they're not.  In some situations, mate can only be avoided through a piece drop, but if they're down on time, then its game over.

8. "Laddering" is a plan that consists of connected pawns toward an opponents position, and is very useful in cracking a cramped position. An example of a ladder is: 1. d4 d6 2. e4 e5 3. d5! Be7 4. Bc4 threatening P@e6 with a strong attack. Note: The french advance (1. e4 e6 2. d4 d5 3. e5!) is a very good opening in "bughouse" compared to its normal chess mimic. The routine 3...c5 merely creates holes in blacks position at c7 and d6, and white has already begun a "ladder" towards d6 or f6.

9. A piece in hand is worth two on the board. Placing a piece down to check or to merely threaten a piece is a waste of your teammate's hard work (in getting the piece.) Use your own pieces till pieces in hand can be put to optimal use.

10. Castling is, for the most part, not recommended. Knowing where you king lies makes it easier for an opponent to know where he should concentrate his pieces. It also takes a move, which is crucial in bug.

Have fun! Just remember its always your teammate's fault if your lose, and if he/she complains, just tell him/her to get better! Likewise, if you win, then its all you baby! Gloat and complain to your teammate that he didn't do a thing (if your teammate is the one who mated, then just say he couldn't have without your pieces!). 

:o) 

 

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Thanks everyone! Wow.. this is really helpful. I especially liked the last one. More tips would be great!