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I do! I do!
I went up against this one guy I never expected to beat in my wildest dreams, and I won three times in a row. On the other side of the ledger, I completely screwed up and lost to someone who had a queen and a half dozen or so pawns against a king and three, and couldn't work out how to put me out of my misery.
I should have tried harder to draw that last game. Oh well.
actually someone did get zero, i don't remember who
A zero rating would be achievable but you'd most likely need to cheat by using multiple accounts. This would be the reverse of using multiple accounts to boost your rating. I can't see anyone ever bothering to do such a useless thing.
It's more like a 1700 FIDE rating is a 2000 chess.com turn-based rating.
Live chess is a bit closer I think, but I don't play here much either, and some of the ratings have changed.
Everything I've read on chess.com says that comparisons between different rating systems/pools are very difficult to make. However I also read that FIDE ratings are on average, 200~300 points LOWER than chess.com turn-based. Same as Chess 960 ratings are on average 300~400 points lower than standard turned-based ratings, (different pools of players + less games played).
A rating can give you sort of weakness . Do not look at the opponent's rating when
you play, find a way to cover it up so it does not matter anymore.
I agree. However I know that I can lose to players rated way below me and win against players rated above me, so I always try to play carefully...and you never know if and when your opponent decides to use some engine assistance.
How about the different game types and the points associated with those? I was wondering if anyone could break this down for me, I'm a little confused as to why a 10 min game I only get 15-30 points, and then I play a 15|10 game and will get 100+ points for a win... Is it that because I'm not an extremely high rated player? Or is it a combination of who I play, their rank, my rank, and how the game plays out (ie. if I lose with a majority of my pieces remaining on the board or lose with just my king on the board).
It's doubtless because you've played far less games in Standard.
The pieces on the board do not matter. What matters is your rating vs the rating of your opponent, and how accurate the algorithm thinks the ratings of you and your opponent are. For example, if your opponent has played very few games recently, your rating will not move as much because their rating may not be as accurate. But if YOU have not played many games recently, then your rating will move MORE because YOUR rating is deemed to be less accurate.
Alright, thank you for the clarification David. For the record, what is "standard"? I usually play 10 or 15 min games.
Bullet rating - For games under 3 minutes.
Blitz rating - For games of 3 minutes to 14 minutes.
Standard rating - For games 15 minutes and longer.
For details, look here: http://support.chess.com/Knowledgebase/Article/View/94/0/why-are-there-three-different-ratings-in-live-chess
David, I appreciate you answeing my question, as well as posting a link. That cleared it up for me.
Great, so I don't have to start at 0!
people are grandmasters at 2400 + thats why we have ratings or we would all be grandmasters.You can play unrated games if you want this means that your rating will not go up or down.Blitz games are for people who prefer to play fast, standard is 30 minutes these games usually result in a checkmate.
2400 is a bit low for a GM.
yes but u hav i no a gm hu got 4/6 in a tourny he lost 2 a 1750 and 1810 and he was one of the highest seeds
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