To Higher Rated Players: How do you find the best moves and plans in games

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RealPhatDood
Littlemanpaul wrote:

bro is literally rated 800 bullet, lol, and claims to be 2391 overboard?!?! a player rated 2391 over board would smoke any 800 bullet 100 out of 100 games, I'm only rated 1020 USCF and can smoke 1600's in online bullet

And this is off topic to the whole discussion

RealPhatDood
Cee_Willy wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
youngjoe52 wrote:
GoldenFlicker wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
BraydenPlaysWithStyle wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:

Dont commit your king too early. I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves. If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board. Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen. Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces. This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice. Don't play bullet and grind rapid. Don't resign every game. That same mindset when I was not good at chess made me lose rating fast. Keep your rating and be consistent in your games. Don't make 1 movers either. Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know. I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame. Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame. Don't blunder. Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material. Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!

Bro is not 2391

If he is 2391 then I am 6000

Over the board bozo

U cant just be 700 online and 2391 like I am 1480 otb and 1700ish online

RPD did say 2391 locally rated, not USCF-rated. That could mean anything

I checked his account and it said he's lost more rapid games than he's won.

I resigned due to me being bad

I've looked at some of your games and the quality of your moves both in your daily and bullet games and your 2391 rating locally (if even true) is no where near 2391 USCF or FIDE based on your moves. I do take into consideration the bullet time controls. But your moves should still be high quality in the opening if you were at 2300 playing strength USCF. Plus to tell someone not to castle early as a blanket statement goes against general opening theory. Take what this person says with a grain of salt.

Ok listen. I never said FIDE or USCF rated. I am LOCALLY rated. And I also said that if you are an aggressive player. Also, I study opening theory and no 3 digit elo person knows continuations and middlegame theory. When someone plays along with the opening, I play crazy good. https://www.chess.com/analysis/game/live/74894738681?tab=review

RealPhatDood

AND EVERYONE, MY ELO IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE PART OF THIS DISCUSSION! IT IS SUPPOSED TO HELP THE COMMUNITY NOT HYPER ATTACK A RANDOM PERSON

good
RealPhatDood wrote:

I play OTB without time controls

Every rated match has to have a time control

Cee_Willy
RealPhatDood wrote:
Cee_Willy wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
youngjoe52 wrote:
GoldenFlicker wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
BraydenPlaysWithStyle wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:

Dont commit your king too early. I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves. If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board. Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen. Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces. This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice. Don't play bullet and grind rapid. Don't resign every game. That same mindset when I was not good at chess made me lose rating fast. Keep your rating and be consistent in your games. Don't make 1 movers either. Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know. I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame. Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame. Don't blunder. Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material. Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!

Bro is not 2391

If he is 2391 then I am 6000

Over the board bozo

U cant just be 700 online and 2391 like I am 1480 otb and 1700ish online

RPD did say 2391 locally rated, not USCF-rated. That could mean anything

I checked his account and it said he's lost more rapid games than he's won.

I resigned due to me being bad

I've looked at some of your games and the quality of your moves both in your daily and bullet games and your 2391 rating locally (if even true) is no where near 2391 USCF or FIDE based on your moves. I do take into consideration the bullet time controls. But your moves should still be high quality in the opening if you were at 2300 playing strength USCF. Plus to tell someone not to castle early as a blanket statement goes against general opening theory. Take what this person says with a grain of salt.

Ok listen. I never said FIDE or USCF rated. I am LOCALLY rated. And I also said that if you are an aggressive player. Also, I study opening theory and no 3 digit elo person knows continuations and middlegame theory. When someone plays along with the opening, I play crazy good. https://www.chess.com/analysis/game/live/74894738681?tab=review

I know you didn't say that it was FIDE or USCF, but I was comparing that rating to FIDE and USCF. But you are right, this is not about your rating. So let me directly address your comments.

"Dont commit your king too early." Worse is to leave your king in the center in most positions.

"I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves." Only if the position calls for it

"If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board." It's more about how the position changes. That could be true, and could be completely wrong.

"Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen." Sure, learning the greek gift is useful to know as an attacking example. Also, you can also attack with pawns and minor pieces, they're not just there for sacrifices.

"Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces." Depends on the position

"This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice." A few of the words in your entire comment are okay. Since your rating is not FIDE or USCF, you should probably keep this local rating to yourself.

"Don't play bullet and grind rapid." Bullet is not good for learning but blitz can be. I agree with your statement about rapid chess but it really depends on what time control you are trying to improve on.

"Don't resign every game." Good Advice

"Keep your rating and be consistent in your games." Ratings will fluctuate, best is to not worry about your rating.

"Don't make 1 movers either." Dan Heisman calls this hope chess and is good advice.

"Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know." The quality of your moves speaks volumes. Looking at some of your games reveals your playing strength.

"I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame." Play the position, not the player.

"Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame." If you have a path to a winning endgame, but that is not always the case. Sometimes finding the draw is the best plan.

"Don't blunder." If only it were that easy

"Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material." Sometimes easier said than done.

"Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!" Sure if your up material, a 7 vs 6 advantage is not as apparent as a 2 vs 1 advantage, but again easier said than done. Plus it's not just as easy as trade anything and everything. It depends on the position.

Overall your advice isn't what would help someone to make better moves. It really comes from good tactical and positional knowledge. Knowing basic opening theory is also important, as I mentioned your goal should be to make the least amount of pawn moves, followed by developing you minor pieces, then castle and connect your rooks. You can't always force attacks and if you try to, a good player will easily stop your attack. If you understand the position and are able to find the tactics when they become available, you will more often than not find the best move.

RealPhatDood
epicchessmaster999 wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:

AND EVERYONE, MY ELO IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE PART OF THIS DISCUSSION! IT IS SUPPOSED TO HELP THE COMMUNITY NOT HYPER ATTACK A RANDOM PERSON

If you're not good, then why are you giving advice that could potentially hurt other's play?

Erm Actually, I can say whatever I want because I am in the US.

RealPhatDood
Cee_Willy wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
Cee_Willy wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
youngjoe52 wrote:
GoldenFlicker wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
BraydenPlaysWithStyle wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:

Dont commit your king too early. I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves. If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board. Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen. Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces. This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice. Don't play bullet and grind rapid. Don't resign every game. That same mindset when I was not good at chess made me lose rating fast. Keep your rating and be consistent in your games. Don't make 1 movers either. Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know. I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame. Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame. Don't blunder. Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material. Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!

Bro is not 2391

If he is 2391 then I am 6000

Over the board bozo

U cant just be 700 online and 2391 like I am 1480 otb and 1700ish online

RPD did say 2391 locally rated, not USCF-rated. That could mean anything

I checked his account and it said he's lost more rapid games than he's won.

I resigned due to me being bad

I've looked at some of your games and the quality of your moves both in your daily and bullet games and your 2391 rating locally (if even true) is no where near 2391 USCF or FIDE based on your moves. I do take into consideration the bullet time controls. But your moves should still be high quality in the opening if you were at 2300 playing strength USCF. Plus to tell someone not to castle early as a blanket statement goes against general opening theory. Take what this person says with a grain of salt.

Ok listen. I never said FIDE or USCF rated. I am LOCALLY rated. And I also said that if you are an aggressive player. Also, I study opening theory and no 3 digit elo person knows continuations and middlegame theory. When someone plays along with the opening, I play crazy good. https://www.chess.com/analysis/game/live/74894738681?tab=review

I know you didn't say that it was FIDE or USCF, but I was comparing that rating to FIDE and USCF. But you are right, this is not about your rating. So let me directly address your comments.

"Dont commit your king too early." Worse is to leave your king in the center in most positions.

"I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves." Only if the position calls for it

"If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board." It's more about how the position changes. That could be true, and could be completely wrong.

"Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen." Sure, learning the greek gift is useful to know as an attacking example. Also, you can also attack with pawns and minor pieces, they're not just there for sacrifices.

"Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces." Depends on the position

"This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice." A few of the words in your entire comment are okay. Since your rating is not FIDE or USCF, you should probably keep this local rating to yourself.

"Don't play bullet and grind rapid." Bullet is not good for learning but blitz can be. I agree with your statement about rapid chess but it really depends on what time control you are trying to improve on.

"Don't resign every game." Good Advice

"Keep your rating and be consistent in your games." Ratings will fluctuate, best is to not worry about your rating.

"Don't make 1 movers either." Dan Heisman calls this hope chess and is good advice.

"Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know." The quality of your moves speaks volumes. Looking at some of your games reveals your playing strength.

"I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame." Play the position, not the player.

"Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame." If you have a path to a winning endgame, but that is not always the case. Sometimes finding the draw is the best plan.

"Don't blunder." If only it were that easy

"Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material." Sometimes easier said than done.

"Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!" Sure if your up material, a 7 vs 6 advantage is not as apparent as a 2 vs 1 advantage, but again easier said than done. Plus it's not just as easy as trade anything and everything. It depends on the position.

Overall your advice isn't what would help someone to make better moves. It really comes from good tactical and positional knowledge. Knowing basic opening theory is also important, as I mentioned your goal should be to make the least amount of pawn moves, followed by developing you minor pieces, then castle and connect your rooks. You can't always force attacks and if you try to, a good player will easily stop your attack. If you understand the position and are able to find the tactics when they become available, you will more often than not find the best move.

I didn't want to start a war but this worked for me OTB every time. I will unfollow this post to get rid of this burden of having to explain myself. I haven't admitted defeat though. I just want to focus on my schoolwork as I am writing this during my classes. Goodbye

-Be Phatter

Phat Dood

Cee_Willy
RealPhatDood wrote:
Cee_Willy wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
Cee_Willy wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
youngjoe52 wrote:
GoldenFlicker wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:
ArnavlovesChess wrote:
BraydenPlaysWithStyle wrote:
RealPhatDood wrote:

Dont commit your king too early. I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves. If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board. Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen. Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces. This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice. Don't play bullet and grind rapid. Don't resign every game. That same mindset when I was not good at chess made me lose rating fast. Keep your rating and be consistent in your games. Don't make 1 movers either. Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know. I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame. Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame. Don't blunder. Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material. Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!

Bro is not 2391

If he is 2391 then I am 6000

Over the board bozo

U cant just be 700 online and 2391 like I am 1480 otb and 1700ish online

RPD did say 2391 locally rated, not USCF-rated. That could mean anything

I checked his account and it said he's lost more rapid games than he's won.

I resigned due to me being bad

I've looked at some of your games and the quality of your moves both in your daily and bullet games and your 2391 rating locally (if even true) is no where near 2391 USCF or FIDE based on your moves. I do take into consideration the bullet time controls. But your moves should still be high quality in the opening if you were at 2300 playing strength USCF. Plus to tell someone not to castle early as a blanket statement goes against general opening theory. Take what this person says with a grain of salt.

Ok listen. I never said FIDE or USCF rated. I am LOCALLY rated. And I also said that if you are an aggressive player. Also, I study opening theory and no 3 digit elo person knows continuations and middlegame theory. When someone plays along with the opening, I play crazy good. https://www.chess.com/analysis/game/live/74894738681?tab=review

I know you didn't say that it was FIDE or USCF, but I was comparing that rating to FIDE and USCF. But you are right, this is not about your rating. So let me directly address your comments.

"Dont commit your king too early." Worse is to leave your king in the center in most positions.

"I am an aggressive player and attack the king after 10 moves." Only if the position calls for it

"If you have a similar playstyle, castle your king on the opposite side of the board." It's more about how the position changes. That could be true, and could be completely wrong.

"Learn Greek Gift sacrifices and attack the king with your rooks and queen." Sure, learning the greek gift is useful to know as an attacking example. Also, you can also attack with pawns and minor pieces, they're not just there for sacrifices.

"Defend on the opposite side of the board with your minor pieces." Depends on the position

"This overall works for me over-the-board and might help you in online games as well. I am 2391 right now in over-the-board chess (locally rated), so you are getting good advice." A few of the words in your entire comment are okay. Since your rating is not FIDE or USCF, you should probably keep this local rating to yourself.

"Don't play bullet and grind rapid." Bullet is not good for learning but blitz can be. I agree with your statement about rapid chess but it really depends on what time control you are trying to improve on.

"Don't resign every game." Good Advice

"Keep your rating and be consistent in your games." Ratings will fluctuate, best is to not worry about your rating.

"Don't make 1 movers either." Dan Heisman calls this hope chess and is good advice.

"Although on chess.com I am in the 3 digits, that was because I wasn't good when I joined but now I am very high level (although my elo is still low because I am in school and have no time for rapid so I grind bullet, hypocritical I know." The quality of your moves speaks volumes. Looking at some of your games reveals your playing strength.

"I play chess for fun.) and almost always play aggresively. Adapt to how your opponent plays in the middlegame." Play the position, not the player.

"Another piece of advice, your goal for the middlegame is to transfer the position into a winning endgame." If you have a path to a winning endgame, but that is not always the case. Sometimes finding the draw is the best plan.

"Don't blunder." If only it were that easy

"Inaccuracies are okay but don't give away free material." Sometimes easier said than done.

"Try to use tactics and gain at least 3 points of material and then simplify the position, as in trading queens, knights, bishops, rooks etc. Just dont try to sacrifice the GAME!!!!1!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!!11!!" Sure if your up material, a 7 vs 6 advantage is not as apparent as a 2 vs 1 advantage, but again easier said than done. Plus it's not just as easy as trade anything and everything. It depends on the position.

Overall your advice isn't what would help someone to make better moves. It really comes from good tactical and positional knowledge. Knowing basic opening theory is also important, as I mentioned your goal should be to make the least amount of pawn moves, followed by developing you minor pieces, then castle and connect your rooks. You can't always force attacks and if you try to, a good player will easily stop your attack. If you understand the position and are able to find the tactics when they become available, you will more often than not find the best move.

I didn't want to start a war but this worked for me OTB every time. I will unfollow this post to get rid of this burden of having to explain myself. I haven't admitted defeat though. I just want to focus on my schoolwork as I am writing this during my classes. Goodbye

-Be Phatter

Phat Dood

If it works for you, than good for you. I can tell you from personal experience with rated OTB chess, your advice will not get you to class B ratings. And honest;y I would be surprised if you would get to an elo of 1000 OTB rated chess; FIDE or USCF. At the end of the day, it's all about what makes it fun for you and that's what is most important. Just know that what makes chess fun for you and how to improve your play may be very different.

falcon39

You cant trust moves in bullet.