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What do we know about chaturanga strategy?

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GM_multimortar4500

hi, nice post, but it is outdated

chrisbao

Since this thread has mostly degenerated, I'll attempt to get back on topic by adding some tactical/endgame advice.

Undefended/Hanging pieces

These are common, especially at lower levels. Knowing when pieces are hanging and not hanging pieces in return is a good start for improvement.

Forks

Often used in conjunction with undefended pieces. Knight forks, rook forks, and pawn forks work the same way as they do in regular chess. Alfil forks are trickier to see due to the jumping and are usually less common due to the limited movement.

Endgames

Stalemating the opponent grants a win. In addition, taking all of the opponents pieces without losing all of your own pieces grants a win.

The following endgames are drawn:

K+R v K+ 2 F (same color) in special fortresses

K+A v K+(any amount of color-limited pieces not in the same color as the alfil) in special fortresses

K+R v K+R (exceptions are generally very obvious)

K+R v K+R+(A or F or N or P) (if the K+R side's position isn't terrible)

K+(A or F or N) v K+(A or F or N) (+P) (unless a piece gets separated from the king and trapped)

K+N v K+(A or F or N)+(A or F) (unless pieces get separated from the king and trapped)

K+R v K+N(+A or F) (unless the knight gets lost)

K+2N or K+N v K+R (same as regular chess, unless the knight/rook gets lost)

If a simple endgame (a simple endgame is defined as one where each player has less than 3 pieces other than the king) does not appear in the list above, it is highly likely that it is winning for some player.

GM_multimortar4500
chrisbao wrote:

Since this thread has mostly degenerated, I'll attempt to get back on topic by adding some tactical/endgame advice.

Undefended/Hanging pieces

These are common, especially at lower levels. Knowing when pieces are hanging and not hanging pieces in return is a good start for improvement.

Forks

Often used in conjunction with undefended pieces. Knight forks, rook forks, and pawn forks work the same way as they do in regular chess. Alfil forks are trickier to see due to the jumping and are usually less common due to the limited movement.

Endgames

Stalemating the opponent grants a win. In addition, taking all of the opponents pieces without losing all of your own pieces grants a win.

The following endgames are drawn:

K+R v K+ 2 F (same color) in special fortresses

K+A v K+(any amount of color-limited pieces not in the same color as the alfil) in special fortresses

K+R v K+R (exceptions are generally very obvious)

K+R v K+R+(A or F or N or P) (if the K+R side's position isn't terrible)

K+(A or F or N) v K+(A or F or N) (+P) (unless a piece gets separated from the king and trapped)

K+N v K+(A or F or N)+(A or F) (unless pieces get separated from the king and trapped)

K+R v K+N(+A or F) (unless the knight gets lost)

K+2N or K+N v K+R (same as regular chess, unless the knight/rook gets lost)

If a simple endgame (a simple endgame is defined as one where each player has less than 3 pieces other than the king) does not appear in the list above, it is highly likely that it is winning for some player.

i had drawn K+R+A vs K+R+F+A+p

samuelebeckis
rossvassev wrote:

The simplicity of Chaturanga makes it more entertaining than, say, Gothic chess. At least for me. I guess I like simple. I also love the rules: baring the opponent's king is a win, so is stalemating the opponent. Entirely logical, unlike Western chess.

Indeed. I agree with that.

samuelebeckis

Ehm.. Sorry I was still at page 1.  Okay, let's focus on the topic:

  • @nescitus Don't get me wrong please, your tips are pretty trivial but still correct, except #1 which I think is wrong: the double Rook strategy applies more to modern Chess than Chaturanga IMO.
  • @chrisbao Thanks for sharing your endgames knowledge. I know nothing about endgames so I cannot debate on that matter. I trust you.
CoolinFlow

The thing about Chaturanga is, even if one wants to be faithful to the original game, pawns promoting to ferz is ridiculous (who had that "brilliant" idea).

Why not an update where pawns promote to a non-royal piece that moves like a king, for instance? Keeping the spirit of the ancient game, but making it way more winnable.

best_move11
CoolinFlow ha scritto:

The thing about Chaturanga is, even if one wants to be faithful to the original game, pawns promoting to ferz is ridiculous (who had that "brilliant" idea).

Why not an update where pawns promote to a non-royal piece that moves like a king, for instance? Keeping the spirit of the ancient game, but making it way more winnable.

according to wikipedia pawn promote to ferz in shatranj since the 7th century ad. seems pretty ancient to me. source

"When the game was introduced to the Middle East as shatranj around the 7th century, the promotion rule was standardised to the former: i.e. a pawn could only promote to a fers"

chrisbao

Here is an overview of how to play the simplest endgames (will edit and add more later):

Piece overview:

K - King

F - Ferz

N - Knight

A - Alfil

R - Rook

 

First we start with winning endgames:

K+R vs K+F 

Push the king towards the edge, pin the ferz, and win it. Alternatively, seperate the king and ferz, and then win the ferz.

(don't get forked)

K+R vs K+A

Seperate the king and alfil (preferably by forcing the king to the edge), then win the alfil.

(Alfil forks are rare, but they still exist)

K+R vs K+A+A

Quite rare. Separate the two alfils from the king and trap them.

 

Next we have offensive strategies for less clear endgames (attacker on left side):

K+R vs K+F+F

Try to separate the two ferzes from the king and trap them one at a time (will be harder if they are of the same color as then they can defend themselves)

K+R vs K+F+A

Again, try to seperate the ferz and alfil from the king and trap them.

K+R vs K+N

Review your endgame resources for standard chess

K+N vs K+F

The main strategy is to attempt to force the king and ferz away from each other, then trap the ferz. Try to slowly force the king and ferz towards the edge of the board, which will make this task easier.

K+N vs K+A

Similarly, the main strategy is to force the king and alfil away from each other. Try to use the king and knight to deprive the ferz of protected squares, and use opposition to force the opposing king back.

IvanT01

Wow nice 

 

jonathanhilton

There are videos on all aspects of Shatranj here:

https://www.youtube.com/user/KindlyCoach

Video series on openings and endgames as well.

chrisbao

The bare-piece rule makes chaturanga endgames (with small numbers of pieces) way more interesting than chess endgames with the same amount of pieces.

In this post I will be talking about K+F+F vs K+F (assume K+F+F side is White)

Now, this is generally drawn if White's ferzes are both the 'wrong' color. However, it is a general win for White if at least one ferz is the 'right' color.

Here are the two key positions:



There are both with Black to move. In both positions, Black is in zugzwang. For example, in the first position, Fe7 loses to Ff5+ Kf6 (Kd6 Fc5+ and white still wins) Fc5. Fc7 loses to Fc5 (a second zugzwang, followed by Kd7/d8 trapping the ferz), while Kf6 loses to Fd5 (Fe7 Fc5, Fc7 Fd7, K-any Kd7 all lose Black's ferz)

In the second position, Black is simply pushed to the back rank with accurate play from White, e. g. Kd7 Kd5 Ff8 Ff6

jonathanhilton

One recent top level game featured 2F v. F: https://www.chess.com/variants/chaturanga/game/22548338/185/1

lewis0428

In games of points, alfil, orthodox pawn, and ferz are all 1 point.

Knight is 3 points.

Rook is 5 points.

That should give a reference.

coolthing

It looks like this forum has been inactive for a little while so I'll put some thoughts in here. I'm the current #1 rated chaturanga player, and here are a few tips that worked for me and can especially help players in the 1600-1800 range.

1. Learn the piece values

Sources differ, but the numbers I use (that are fairly simple, easy to remember, and essentially correct) are these:

Rook - 7, Knight - 4, Ferz - 2, Alfil - 1.5, Pawn - 1

Note that these numbers are not reliable in endgames. The bare-piece rule, stalemate rule, and the multitude of fortresses mean more points does not necessarily translate to a win.

2. Trade alfils for pawns*

This tip may seem to directly contradict #1, but I argue that the reason alfils are worth slightly more than pawns is because the alfil can often sacrifice itself for a pawn in a positionally advantageous manner. Thus, if "sacrificing" the alfil creates sufficient positional advantages, it is often a good idea. What is sufficient? That's up to you to figure out.

3. Trade a ferz for 2 pawns

Although they nominally have the same value, two pawns are generally more useful than a ferz in the middlegame.

4. Tactics tactics tactics

Although chaturanga is a very positional game, most games tend to be decided by tactics. The somewhat unfamiliar and tricky piece movements are often primed for tactical opportunities. Alfil tactics are especially tricky and effective due to the alfil's low value. 

5. It's not over until it's over

A position that appears hopeless may still be saved. One of the most common ways to salvage half a point is to create an endgame fortress on a color complex that the opponent does not control. Likewise, when you are winning, be vigilant and make sure you can control all the relevant squares before trading down.

josephruhf
rossvassev wrote:

I read somewhere that the elephants could also move 1 space forward, like the silver generals in Shogi.

Shogi probably got the silver generals from what became Makruk and Ouk Cha(k)trang. The gold general(s) developed natively in Japan to restore the distinction between the ferz and the elephants.

ethankent9

facts