Antiqued Boxwood vs Normal Boxwood in chess pieces?

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Avatar of grownupboy

You know, I used to be very much against faux-antique finishes on chess pieces. But I've been reviewing a lovely OS dropjaw set that has completely changed my mind. I don't see the pieces as attempting to look old, but they have a lovely camel color that just sort of feels right to me.

I don't have any first hand experience with distressed sets so I can't comment on those but if it's done right, antique finish looks pretty sweet. And OS definitely did it right!

K.

Avatar of forked_again

grownupboy wrote:

You know, I used to be very much against faux-antique finishes on chess pieces. But I've been reviewing a lovely OS dropjaw set that has completely changed my mind. I don't see the pieces as attempting to look old, but they have a lovely camel color that just sort of feels right to me.

I don't have any first hand experience with distressed sets so I can't comment on those but if it's done right, antique finish looks pretty sweet. And OS definitely did it right!

K.

I think this is the set you are talking about, and I agree Official Staunton does a great job on their finishes and the piece reproduction.  

https://www.officialstaunton.com/collections/antique-chess-sets/products/1862-dropjaw-antique-ebony-mahogany-fischer-chess-set

Avatar of grownupboy

That's the set, except I got the pieces only with no board:

https://www.officialstaunton.com/products/3-5-inch-dropjaw-antique-chess-set

I'm filming a video review of the set this weekend - will post it here when it's ready!

K.

Avatar of forked_again
grownupboy wrote:

That's the set, except I got the pieces only with no board:

https://www.officialstaunton.com/products/3-5-inch-dropjaw-antique-chess-set

I'm filming a video review of the set this weekend - will post it here when it's ready!

K.

Nice!  I thought you were just admiring the set, not that you owned it!  I'll look forward to that video!  

Avatar of grownupboy

Ya, it was on sale for 45% off a few weeks back and I pulled the trigger. Been using it as my daily driver ever since and I've got a few things to say about this lovely set!

K

Avatar of forked_again
forked_again wrote:

The spray varnish for guitars I posted above is nitrocellulose varnish that has some yellow tint already built in.  I bet they use a similar product to make vintage looking chess pieces.  Its a 30 dollar spray can, which is pricey, but I'm tempted to experiment with it.  

I could buy the can, but what would be even better is if someone else would buy it and let us know how it works!  Any takers? happy.png 

Avatar of greghunt

adding another layer of finish on top of whatever is there assumes that they will stick to each other and that the result will not be visibly thicker than the original.  

Avatar of forked_again
greghunt wrote:

is adding another layer of finish on top of whatever is there assumes that they will stick to each other and that the result will not be visibly thicker than the original.  

Very true.  I need to look into proper prep for this product, as well as experimenting on some cheap boxwood pieces I have to see its potential.  My guess right now is that I will never mess with my nice pieces with an experiment like this, but who knows. 

Avatar of Bunky777

Just a humble note on taste and treatments... Watsons Danish Oil is a wipe on & on then wipe off solution if you are a fan of the golden hue. It has increased the beauty of my old pieces and boards by going into the imperfections of the original finishes and feeding the wood. 
The more bashed/scratched a bit was the more effect this oil gives in rejuvenation.

Just after one 15 min application. 3 are recommended. Just my two cents that might bring happiness to your equipment. It does not require much equipment or skill. Note: use outside and store in shed while drying/de-stinking.
Oh yeah, back to boxwood below some oiled, some not yet...

But overall buy old and refresh and live with the flaws is my jam. Super deal, I had to scrape random paint splatter off of these for hours and now - welcome to the family.

Avatar of Powderdigit

It’s a fun discussion …. with individual/personal preference front and centre. It’s similar to when I’m with wood-workers discussing the merits of different finishes - oils, waxes etc… people become so passionate about their preferences and indeed, the special and mysterious mixes they’ve made themselves. My preference is applying / liquid wax to rejuvenate my pieces. Further, I really enjoy stained finishes too. I have green and antique finished Chavet pieces and they are wonderful. Don’t get me wrong, I love natural wood too… In the end, if I like it and it’s in my price range … I buy it… if I don’t like it… I leave it to others with different tastes to mine. And pieces stained to look old… meh - I’m not really buying them to fake an old look, rather sometimes a skilled application of stain can highlight the nuances of carving - which can be attractive too… not because it looks old, just because it looks good…. Sometimes…

Avatar of edwardPowell2233

A lot of the reproductions though intent to replicate vintage pieces have had undesirable results. I prefer plain boxwood variants.

Avatar of Dimiclark

Well! I wouldn't use the word old for an antiqued boxwood look. It gives a vintage touch instead. However, the decision comes down to your preference of what aesthetic appeal you need for your chess pieces. If you are looking for a sense of luxury and history, go for antiqued boxwood. And, if you prefer a bright, fresh appearance, go for the natural boxwood.

Avatar of WandelKoningin

Some antique finishes are better than others. Many people have commented on how impressive the Indian Chess Company’s antiquing on their Averbakh I set is, and I have to agree. In the second image below, you can see the original set from 1949, which is definitely darker and more grungey, but I like how the reproduction looks credible yet still elegant and refined.

I’ve heard about another Soviet reproduction that the ICC and Chess Praxis are working on that it’s taking 3 different colors to get an authentic antique finish, and it seems a similar approach was taken with the Averbakh I reproduction, as you can see both amber and reddish tones where you would expect dirt and grime to accumulate.

I think using more than a single color finish probably yields more authentic-looking results. But you may prefer the look of a single-color antiqueing finish. I think this is very much down to personal preference.