How do I fix a wooden chess piece? (broken finial & sanded too far)

Sort:
WandelKoningin

Okay, I’m pretty horrified with what I’ve done here. I acquired a ’50s–’60s Soviet chess set recently which I’ve dubbed a ‘Droplet set’ because the bishops have these finials that look like droplet impacts. I found 38 sets like this on Etsy, some of which feature kings with droplet finials as well.

Anyway, as the design didn’t seem to be super rare and I got it for a good price, I felt fine altering the pieces. I wasn’t a fan of the mocha color of the white pieces so I decided to refinish them, and I figured I might as well alter the shape of the bishops a bit so they look a bit more elegant. I was going to alter the queens as well, as their finials are comparatively too big. But that’s another matter.

So I got started on a bishop, and while trying to get a more gradual shape to the droplet, somehow the thin part suddenly became really thin even though I didn’t actively sand that part. And yeah, the finial just snapped! It’s a jagged break so I was able to put the droplet back on top without it falling off, but I’m obviously going to have to glue it down. Below is an intact bishop on the left, and the awfulness I created on the right.

So now I have two questions:

  1. I don’t imagine gluing the finial is going to cut it. I will probably have to reinforce it with some steel. How would I go about that? Because the thin part is definitely too thin now to drill a hole.
  2. What can I use to build the shape back up, reinforce the thin part a bit, and get the finial to look a bit more rounded again?

Below you can see the shape I was trying to go for. I honestly have no idea how I managed to sand so much off the wrong parts. I tried to sand just the bottom of the sphere to get a more gradual curve, and the sphere ended looking blocky on top so I tried to sand that back into a sphere. A marginally smaller sphere than before, yes, but what I ended up with is nothing like a sphere.

I thought, how difficult can it be? It takes a long time to sand material off, so I will just gradually alter the shape a little bit. An hour later, I’ve ruined a 60–70-year-old chess piece. cry

Oh and one more question. How do I sand the grooves in the base to remove the color there to make sure I retain the same amount of detail once I apply a finish to the piece? 

ungewichtet

Wow, Wandel, that is a tough task! I think it's good you paused the action and share the trouble.

I have sanded the white sides of two coffee house sets: The first one, because it was thickly lacquered, and while it did not look better afterwards, at least I had substituted the stickiness with a little hard wax in its place. Was it worth the time? Definitely not. The second one I really had to sand, because it had an extra coat of white paint. It was an incredible amount of work, like half an hour per pawn, an hour for each knight? Big pieces. Working carefully, one knight slipped from my hands and broke in two on the floor. Glue worked very well and I'm happy, but the knight with the broken jaw still looks mad at me with its scar. In the end, it was worth it, because I have the natural wood back and waxed or oiled it, a joy for me to play.

I am biased about your set- which you have presented here before- I like it as it is, colour and form and I would just stop and try to recover the bishop to its original shape and colour as good as possible. If you continue, to get into the crevices, I just folded the sanding paper. For restoration, I can only show you my bakelite Varna knight as an example: Clay was too wet, wood wax was too hard, so I took plasticine rubber for children, mixed the colour and restored the missing jaw. You can try this and then may have to apply a coat of lacquer to maybe achieve an intact 'crust'. My Varna knight I store with all the other pieces but in a tight jar, because it would lose form on impact.. happy.png Of course there should be professional ways to restore wooden shapes with some sort of wood paste.

For the finial: no metal, I think glue will do.

GrandPatzerDave

Very highly recommended:

Ron does amazing work from piece repair to piece replication to whole-set restoration. Work worth every penny!

WandelKoningin
ungewichtet wrote:

Wow, Wandel, that is a tough task! I think it's good you paused the action and share the trouble.

I have sanded the white sides of two coffee house sets: The first one, because it was thickly lacquered, and while it did not look better afterwards, at least I had substituted the stickiness with a little hard wax in its place. Was it worth the time? Definitely not. The second one I really had to sand, because it had an extra coat of white paint. It was an incredible amount of work, like half an hour per pawn, an hour for each knight? Big pieces. Working carefully, one knight slipped from my hands and broke in two on the floor. Glue worked very well and I'm happy, but the knight with the broken jaw still looks mad at me with its scar. In the end, it was worth it, because I have the natural wood back and waxed or oiled it, a joy for me to play.

I am biased about your set- which you have presented here before- I like it as it is, colour and form and I would just stop and try to recover the bishop to its original shape and colour as good as possible. If you continue, to get into the crevices, I just folded the sanding paper. For restoration, I can only show you my bakelite Varna knight as an example: Clay was too wet, wood wax was too hard, so I took plasticine rubber for children, mixed the colour and restored the missing jaw. You can try this and then may have to apply a coat of lacquer to maybe achieve an intact 'crust'. My Varna knight I store with all the other pieces but in a tight jar, because it would lose form on impact.. Of course there should be professional ways to restore wooden shapes with some sort of wood paste.

For the finial: no metal, I think glue will do.

I think there is no way I will be able to restore the bishop with the same finish, so I will go ahead with my plan. I want to try a glossy finish like the earlier '40s Droplet set below to go with the droplet/liquid theme.

But I realized these older sets have more refined finials on the bishops anyway, so even if I keep the finials small, it wouldn’t be out of the ordinary. Here is another one of those older sets:

I have experience sculpting with a putty that hardens, so I’m convinced I can build the bishop back up to the shape I wanted. I just have to find the best putty to use for wood.

By the way, I made the design of the bishop shape I envisioned after I already sanded my bishop. In hindsight, I should have put that design together first and use it for reference. Lesson learned. I will use it as reference for the other bishops.

I’m curious to see your second coffee house set!

WandelKoningin
GrandPatzerDave wrote:

Very highly recommended:

Ron does amazing work from piece repair to piece replication to whole-set restoration. Work worth every penny!

Thanks! I asked Alan Powers from The Chess Schach for advice, and I considered having him fix my set if I mess up completely as I live close to Toronto; but I’m not even sure if he does commissioned restorations. Good to know someone who does!

GH_1977

Have heard a lot about Ron and his services. ! How much would a typical restoration cost?

WandelKoningin

Here is a little update. First off, looking at the chess set as a whole, while the bishop isn’t the shape I wanted, I do think it looks more elegant than the bishop on the right, which was one of my aims. I will just use some kind of putty to build the shape back up and reinforce the finial to get the result I’m after. A failed first attempt to be sure, but redeemable. And my second attempt was much better!

Last night I decided to give the right bishop a try. Below is the result so far. I will do some more sanding tonight to get a smoother transition on the right side, make the thin part just a little bit thinner, and I will focus on making the finial more spherical, and perhaps a tad smaller. I went with a more careful and mindful approach, and I feel it’s paying off!

I’m also considering whether I want to spend so much time sanding the finish completely off. I think there may be two other ways I could go about it:

  1. I could probably sand the surface just enough for the primer to hold on to it, which should give me a consistent base for the finish. Does anyone have any experience with refinishing pieces and can tell me whether this is a viable option?
  2. If I don’t even need a primer, I could sand the top parts of the pieces and leave the finish on the bottom part, so when I add a finish, it will come out with a gradient from dark to light.

I’ve seen several of these Droplet sets that had a gradient, presumably because the finish moved down and sort of pooled more onto the lower parts, thus adding a more opaque color. But I quite like it. Below is an example of a set like mine with a cool orange-to-red gradient.

And below is an older Droplet set with a less accomplished finish as it shows clearer signs of pooling, but the gradient is still quite neat. Oh and incidentally, look how thin those finial transitions on the bishops are! I’m curious how the chess maker got them that thin without breaking. It must be quite a fragile set.

By the way, I noticed that the bishops in my set show a fairly significant amount of variety in the shapes of the bishops. The bishop I worked on last night still has the largest finial even though I already made it smaller; one black bishop has a more cylindrical finial transition; and the other black bishop has a narrower miter. So I hope to even those out a little. I might use some putty to widen the miter of the second black bishop.

GrandPatzerDave
GH_1977 wrote:

Have heard a lot about Ron and his services. ! How much would a typical restoration cost?

It very much depends on the degree of repair needed to the pieces. There's more information on his web site and you can always email with photos to discuss an estimate. Let us know how it goes!

OutOfCheese

To get rid of the finish there's other options than sanding

https://www.chess.com/forum/view/chess-equipment/project-restoring-grandpas-chess-pieces?page=1

I rarely sand paint/laquer/varnish because a lot of them gum up the sanding paper. Heat or products to strip the finish are better imo (I did some amateur furniture restoration a decade ago).

After the finish is off the sandpaper should work better to alter the shape, it's cutting the stuff it's designed to cut then.

WandelKoningin
OutOfCheese wrote:

To get rid of the finish there's other options than sanding

https://www.chess.com/forum/view/chess-equipment/project-restoring-grandpas-chess-pieces?page=1

I rarely sand paint/laquer/varnish because a lot of them gum up the sanding paper. Heat or products to strip the finish are better imo (I did some amateur furniture restoration a decade ago).

After the finish is off the sandpaper should work better to alter the shape, it's cutting the stuff it's designed to cut then.

Oh that’s fantastic! What did she end up using, or what would you recommend? I rather use a stripping product than heat.

OutOfCheese

She didn't say in the thread, one option would be to ask her wink.png
If I had to guess tho: in Germany the most common product, also readily available from hardware stores, is called an "Abbeizer" which would have an effect similar to what you can see on the images (I think she used a gel based one). It translates to "paint stripper" but I'm not sure the products are identical in different countries, maybe canadian paint stripper is something else than German ones. For wood it is advised to use solvent based "Abbeizer" instead of alkaline based because the alkaline could be reactivated by moisture and thus damage any newly applied finish (if it contains water), the alkaline stripper could also change the color of some woods (eg oak).

The gel version (as opposed to fluid) tends to stick much better to near vertical surfaces so it seems perfect for chess pieces.