More Board Building Discussion

Both boards are beautifully done! I prefer the sugar maple though, it's easier on the eyes

Screwed in rubber feet on the "backside" of your board (shown above) would've been a monumental blunder. Scrap that whole idea before disaster strikes. I would only use adjustable screwed-in rubber feet as an option to save an imperfect warped board that would've been otherwise unsellable. 

I just finished a board and storage box. I also made a YouTube video of my process.

My build process

:-)

For some, the rubber feet will be preferred, others not. Around here it's most common to play at bars/restaurants. Rubber feet keep the bottom clean and off the table when the inevitable rumble over a pawn sac results in spilled beers. (jk)

I can tell there's a lot of strong opinions about feet on a board.

I agree, if someone was buying this board and could see both sides, they would likely be disappointed. I do wonder though, is the disappointment primarily because you can see the bottom? When you think about it, all those bordered boards with a covered bottom.... what if the other side was better to your eye, but we can't see it? Some people like crazy features in wood, others don't. We're on a site where most people playing chess take it a little more seriously than the average person. I don't plan to put feet on the "bottom" of this board, but I bet if I did, someone would still want it.

All I'm getting at is right now this is a fun, creative process. It's not a production to pay the bills. The more time I spend blundering, the more likely it is I'll blunder my way into an idea that's actually kind of cool. The woven knots of alternate species would be epic! Internal magnets are interesting, a breakdown boarder that could be used when desired, or not, is interesting, completely separate adjustable feet that could live in a bag with the pieces and be pulled out when needed... is most likely where this idea will head to. 

For me, I work with wood all day every day. If I only select the cleanest boards, and try to recreate other designs, then I'll be successful at that. But... original design, the creative process, inventing, it can lead to something special. If I try to become a serious paid board builder, I would expect that it would come from the development, refinement, and perfection of a board style that is unique to my building skills and aesthetic taste. It would hopefully add something special to the world of chess.

I really like all the feedback that I'm getting so a big thank you to everyone on that! Some of the boards will turn out shockingly beautiful. Some will be ho-hum. Some will be best off chopped up and turned into cutting boards!

I'll keep building and refining. Feedback is always welcome and I hope I can keep giving advice to other builders when its helpful and needed!

I like that box! Spline build, little recess to open the lid, rounded cap... lots of details in there. Good job!

What's this little notch for (I haven't watched the video yet)?

Well stated! Creativity takes time, a bit of failure, regrouping, adjusting, a lot of patience and then... something amazing happens when the stars align with your plans. Quick questions for you: sanding hard woods (like the PH in my board) can burn easily right? Would you prepare the surface/sand when the boards are all longitudinal or wait till the checkerboard pattern stage? 

I've never burned purpleheart except with the tablesaw. Sandpaper is good to go! But it does sand crazy slow. I'd start with the lowest grit you have. For me it's 60 and I would like to get a box of 40. 

That being said...

If you had a flat glue up (yours looked good) then I don't think you need to sand after the initial glue up. I've experimented with a sloppy glue up, and then skip sanding and go straight to checkered, huge mistake if you plan to sand it all! It's too much. If I get a sloppy glue up (the purpleheart myrtlewood I used new clamps on, horrible failure, banana clamp under basic pressure) then I take the guard off my jointer and flip the board back and forth on the jointer until I knock it down to a sandable level. 

Normally my initial glue up is good enough that I can just scrape the glue and maybe scrape/had plane the board a touch, and then it's good to go for the crosscut.

Use a good blade on the crosscut. Sanding the tearout of the purpleheart is a bummer.

Who has that quote, it's something like:

"The board is ready, the pieces are set, the mistakes are waiting to be made."

Gotta be my favorite chess quote of all time. Goes well with woodworking too. 

Savielly Tartakower Look at the third quotation. You will find it quoted differently elsewhere. I like your variation.

But this quote is just an hors d'oevre. Look at his other sayings 😃

The Yogi Berra of chess?

So many good quotes!

@wits-end how did it turn out!?

Thanks for asking! Between all the daily stuff i won’t be back in the shop until tomorrow. I’ll post a new picture soon. 

Here we go! Before glue up and after with clamps. I may be in deep trouble... once i glued up, clamped, cleaned up and had some iced tea I realized i forgot to wipe down the surfaces with acetone prior to gluing. Everyday is a school day. 

I like your glue up jigs with the 4x4s. Good creative idea. 

Looks really nice mr Wits! Is that with purpleheart? Looks so uniformly! Love it!

Thanks! Out of necessity and shop left overs. I was trying to get the clamp force as much in-line with the joints as possible. Having fun.

Thanks! Yes, Purple Heart and Maple. 

Wow!