How to play against the Caro-Kann Pawn Structure (e6 c6?)

As black I used to play the d8 Scandinavian defence and turtle against my opponent's attack until they blunder, now as white I'm having trouble against the same strategy.  For instance I reached this position many times.

Pawn structure alone is insufficient.  There is no 1 straight answer.

Is Black's light squared Bishop inside or outside the pawn chain?

Has Black's dark-squared Bishop been traded off?  If so, for White's DSB or a Knight?

Is the board full of pieces or have a bunch been traded off?

The answers to these questions make a huge difference.  For example, the Advance French and Advance Caro, in the long run, lead to the same pawn structure, but they are nothing alike.  The French Black is willing to deal with a bad piece in return for rapid fire at White's center.

In the Caro, Black wants his Bishop outside the pawn chain, and he will waste a couple of tempi just to make sure it happens!

I suppose in this case I'm asking specifically about Scandinavian/Caro-Kann variations where black's light squared Bishop is outside the pawn chain/traded for a knight.  I.e. something like this

I think what you're looking for are some common/generic, ideas/plans associated with the Caro structure. "The best ways to play against this structure as white" will depend on more specific circumstances and should be considered subjective (a matter of opinion rather than fact).

This may help some:

Imbalances:

White has a pawn on c-file and has a queen-side majority, while Black has a pawn on the c-file and has a king-side majority
The d4 advanced pawn guarantees White a spatial advantage, as well as a better control of the centre.

White’s plans:
Launching a Kingside attack,
Making good use of the b1-h7 diagonal and putting pressure on the vulnerable h7-pawn. Usually with Bd3 and queen help.
Placing a knight on the e5-square outpost
Playing c3-c4 (gaining more space) and harmoniously placing pieces in order to keep control the centre (c5-square and the e5-square) and prevent Black's pawn break (holding the structure intact).
Playing c3-c4-c5 in order to control the weak d6-square
Use d6 as an outpost

Black’s Plans:
Playing c6-c5 (before c4 is played by White) in order to break the centre and create a 3-3 vs 4-2 structure (most likely).
Attacking white’s c-pawn and putting pressure in the centre by advancing the b-pawn (to b6 if White’s pawn is on c5 or to b5 if White’s c-pawn in on c4)
Playing e6-e5 in order to break the centre (not as likely) and create a symmetrical structure.
Attacking the d4-pawn after White has advanced his pawn to the c4 square (rare because easy to defend).

I noticed you like/mentioned the move a4. I would suggest looking into developing your pieces (example: a rook to a semi open/central file).

Also, be open to the idea of castling queen-side.

Another note on the "structure"...

I consider what you've shown as the "initial Caro" as the c pawn hasn't advanced yet.

I call the "common Caro" when the c pawn is on c3.

So, there is a slight difference. Some cases may not make a difference, some could though.

I just develop normally and later play c4 and d5

The line given by the OP is not very good for Black.  Black should almost never give the LSB for the Knight voluntarily in the 3...Qa5 Scandinavian.

If White chases it by weakening his kingside with g4 and then Nh4 or New, then fine.  White has weaknesses to attack and is spending time chasing the Bishop.

But otherwise, it is the c3-Knight that Black should be going after.  Bb4 with an eventual trade of B for N, develop the other Bishop to f5 instead of g4.  Maneuver the B to d5 via e4 after the trade.

Black is creating a light square blockade.

Therefore, in your example, White should be going for an attack on the light squares that are now weakened by Black's trade.

Here is how you destroy the Caro-Kann!

https://www.chess.com/live#g=17063529497

indeed. @TF nice game but if anything, instead of 5. ... ed4, 5. ... Be6 is better (6. c3 Nf6 7. Bd3 Nbd7 8. 0-0 Bd6 9. Nbd2 0-0 10. Qe1 Re8 with mutual chances Ozsvath-Flesch, Budapest 1967)

If 6. Bg5 Be7 7. Be7 Qe7 8. Nc3 (8. Ne5?! Qh4+[!], if 9. g3 then 9. ... Qe4+. 8. de5 runs into 8. ... Nbd7 & 9. ... 0-0-0 with a strong intiative) 8. ... Bg4! 9. Bf4 Nd7 10. d5 Ngf6 11. h3 Bf3 12. Qd2 Nb6 13. Bb3 0-0 14. 0-0-0 Rad8 15. Qd2 (maybe 15. d6 Bc6 was alittle better but now...) 15. ... c5! rocks as it works around the d5 pawn envisions maybe ... c4

edit: not 9. Bf4, but 9. Bc4 in the above line

(black is able to counter on the dark squares while harassing the LSB, plop the King N on Nd6)

Anyways. I just enjoy other ppls perspectives

edit: I just noticed if white plays 15. Rd2 (not 15. Qd2 as quoted above ack) apologies again ✌🏽

I don't know what you are writing about - show and tell please.

indeed. As it is, the Scandinavian & Caro•Kann differ in tempo even though at first glance the pawn structure is similar. The "how" it became that way (the moves as such) is the true contrast and will ultimately give rise to a solution. Just looking at it superficially or comparatively will leave you stuck. Be simple about it. How you approach a CK position is relatively different to how you approach a similar position arising from a different opening. If you think it's a transposition. Cool. Just bone up how to play a CK line. If it's not then you gotta work!

@Derek are you asking me or ... ? 🤔

I was actually chatting about ThrillerFans comment & generally speaking to the OP, sorry I'm not in the mood to display a playable diagram

I used to have success with Spassky's formation against the classical Caro.

Play c4, Bd2 then Bc3, and play for either Ne5 or d4-d5.

Here's a sample line:

https://www.dailychess.com/chess/grandmaster-games/viewmastergame.php?pgnid=61515&subject=Kiril-Georgiev-vs-Liviu-Dieter-Nisipeanu