Savage47 wrote:
Step 1: get to 2299
Step 2: Work really hard
I think you mixed up the order of your steps 
how to reach 2300 ?
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blueemu wrote:
Stop playing chess for a couple of years, until your Glicko RD rises to 200+
Then win two games.
It worked for me.
Well, if he lose 2 games, he will be back to 1700.
LOL.
This topic is really silly though. If you go from beginner to anything close to 2000 then you already know how improvement works. You just need to do more of the same.
I like the computer and RD suggestions though hehe 
412364 wrote:
What does it really mean to be at 2000+ playing blitz, or bullet? Is that a real chess rating? There are too many unknowns involved with internet chess.
Why do low rated players always make absurd comments like this? You act as if rating has no meaning and as if anyone of any skill level can reach any rating. No, it's not like that. There's a certain bar you need to meet for any given rating level. You need to know certain things and be able to spot certain tactics and positional themes on a consistent basis.
For 2300+ blitz rating, I'd say:
- You must be quick with tactics, especially "puzzle rush" style tactics, and you need to be able to spot these in real games at least 80% of the time, both from an attacking standpoint but also from a defensive standpoint.
- You must understand and value "piece activity", and know when it's appropriate to sacrifice a pawn in the opening, middlegame and even endgame, in order to keep your pieces active.
- You must know an opening repertoire quite well, and you should never feel like you're "stuck" in the first 10-12 moves of the game.
- Following on from your opening repertoire: you should understand middlegame strategy for each of your openings, understand when and where to pawn break, which side to attack on, etc.
- You should know most theoretical endgames quite well, including Philidor's position, Lucena position, double bishop checkmate, opposite coloured bishop fortresses, etc.
- You should know the "value" of a piece relative to the board. When is a knight worth more than a bishop? When should I trade my LS bishop for my opponent's LS bishop? How do I make trades which benefit me? A 2300+ player knows that a trade of pieces is rarely neutral, and will usually benefit one side.
Geodesist216 wrote:
hikarunaku wrote:
Get a coach.
This is the only answer should listen to. Get a coach preferably Magnus Carlsen.
The best player is not nessecary the best coach. You should always try to find someone who fits ur style, with style i mean teaching style, if the coach fits your personality it is a great asset to learn from, or else it will be suffering... and we dont wanna suffer right?
And dont focus on the rating, focus on improving..... it is not like if you have higher rating you are better.... you are better and then you get higher rating. Want i am trying to say is, if you are better than yesterday you already won!
How to get to 2300? First get to 2600, and then play like me for a few games.
Anyway this is only online chess. The most important is real chess.
Deranged wrote:
thank you my friend . What chess program has a strategy lesson for each opening and its variations and is explained in step by step. Explain easily how to calculate piece strength ,etc
412364 wrote:
What does it really mean to be at 2000+ playing blitz, or bullet? Is that a real chess rating? There are too many unknowns involved with internet chess.
Why do low rated players always make absurd comments like this? You act as if rating has no meaning and as if anyone of any skill level can reach any rating. No, it's not like that. There's a certain bar you need to meet for any given rating level. You need to know certain things and be able to spot certain tactics and positional themes on a consistent basis.
For 2300+ blitz rating, I'd say:
- You must be quick with tactics, especially "puzzle rush" style tactics, and you need to be able to spot these in real games at least 80% of the time, both from an attacking standpoint but also from a defensive standpoint.
- You must understand and value "piece activity", and know when it's appropriate to sacrifice a pawn in the opening, middlegame and even endgame, in order to keep your pieces active.
- You must know an opening repertoire quite well, and you should never feel like you're "stuck" in the first 10-12 moves of the game.
- Following on from your opening repertoire: you should understand middlegame strategy for each of your openings, understand when and where to pawn break, which side to attack on, etc.
- You should know most theoretical endgames quite well, including Philidor's position, Lucena position, double bishop checkmate, opposite coloured bishop fortresses, etc.
- You should know the "value" of a piece relative to the board. When is a knight worth more than a bishop? When should I trade my LS bishop for my opponent's LS bishop? How do I make trades which benefit me? A 2300+ player knows that a trade of pieces is rarely neutral, and will usually benefit one side.
At that level is getting better basically just memorising lot of opening lines?
suhadiMN schreef:
Spelenderwijs wrote:
thank you but i think useless
Keep playing
How is that useless? If you don't play, you won't gain any points.
Alexm67000 wrote:
Anyway this is only online chess. The most important is real chess.
Chess.com is online site. People play 95-99% of chess games online. ( Which is more important? I am confused with your logic).
Btw, i see your online like 1000 rating.
Who will perform better in your real chess( whatever you mean)?
1000 vs 2000
Drmboss. Real chess is OTB because it requires the use of many skills not used in online chess. For example, one cannot move pieces when doing analysis; consult an opening book; eat or rest if needed; write down move variations in notebooks and work out detailed analysis on paper; it is a different world. Even an average tournament player is stronger than online players of the same rating because chess is a practical game as much as any thing else. Even low rated players come to tournament s all bookedup and with reams of analysis in their head to beat stronger players. Many of the lower-rated players have years of experience and some were strong players years ago. The OTB player is a special animal, especially when the money is involved. 1400's beat experts because the expert gets overconfident and the 1400 plays,"over his head." In speed chess, even the strong players hang pieces. If you hang a piece in OTB chess, you are done. A player of any rating has the time to beat you. Did I mention that you must write your moves down? Just a few of the reasons I see OTB chess as the real chess, especially with long time controls.
You are talking about daily chess. Online blitz and rapid are pretty much similar to OTB blitz and rapid.
Nwap111 wrote:
Drmboss. Real chess is OTB because it requires the use of many skills not used in online chess. For example, one cannot move pieces when doing analysis; consult an opening book; eat or rest if needed; write down move variations in notebooks and work out detailed analysis on paper; it is a different world. Even an average tournament player is stronger than online players of the same rating because chess is a practical game as much as any thing else. Even low rated players come to tournament s all bookedup and with reams of analysis in their head to beat stronger players. Many of the lower-rated players have years of experience and some were strong players years ago. The OTB player is a special animal, especially when the money is involved. 1400's beat experts because the expert gets overconfident and the 1400 plays,"over his head." In speed chess, even the strong players hang pieces. If you hang a piece in OTB chess, you are done. A player of any rating has the time to beat you. Did I mention that you must write your moves down? Just a few of the reasons I see OTB chess as the real chess, especially with long time controls.
1400 beats experts in 5-10% of games, but experts beats 1400 in 90-95% of games. That is why they get those ratings.
Chess.com blitz rating are very close in OTB rating. (There are tons of proven posts).
You just need to realize that both players do less mistakes when there is more time.
And 1400 will do more mistakes than 2000 in whatever time control even in 3 hours per game or 3 years per game in correspondence chess. ( because level of understanding of chess is massive among those rating. And also losing chess is not about mostly dropping pieces among experts , but by strategic and positional outplay).
In OTB chess, especially below expert level, it is all about hanging pieces and missing bank rank mates. In OTB chess, strong players hang pieces but shouldn't. Most loses are not brilliant play but players hanging pieces and pawns directly and indirectly.
Yeah, chess is all about hanging pieces and back rank mates...
WTH are you talking about?
That is how I have seen the majority of OTB games won and lost..
Stop playing chess for a couple of years, until your Glicko RD rises to 200+
Then win two games.
It worked for me.