Caro kann when to go Be7 vs. Bd6

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NMRhino
If there are any experts in the caro kann, could you please help me out and let me know when I should develop my dark squared bishop with be7 or bd6. Typically I just always develop it to e7 but sometimes stockfish says it’s a big inaccuracy and I can’t tell the difference of both moves and when they are good.
Omed

im not an expert but i do play the caro kann, so if its an advanced variation then you develop it to Be7. but if not then I like to develop it to Bd6 when the opponent short castles and when a rook isn't staring down my pawn which is pinned,

NMRhino
Thanks, I think mostly what I meant was when they have a bishop on f4 when should u be going be7 vs bd6. Also be7 seems passive but often times it’s good if you want to keep bishops on the board and bf6 later on in the game is also strong.
KingBoland2
should i learn caro lamb or am i not good enough?
BOWTOTHETOAST
NMRhino wrote:
If there are any experts in the caro kann, could you please help me out and let me know when I should develop my dark squared bishop with be7 or bd6. Typically I just always develop it to e7 but sometimes stockfish says it’s a big inaccuracy and I can’t tell the difference of both moves and when they are good.

I am not an expert but I have a few lines you can follow.

sndeww

I believe you play Be7 when white is threatening imminent d5-break. When white has a Bf4 I would tend to agree that Bd6 is stronger because black simply must trade pieces, and a Bf4 is usually very annoying in such positions.

CharlyAZ

In the classical line is customary placing the bishop on d6 if you are going to castle queen side, which could be a liability if you are going to go kingside; f7 pawn could be defended by the queen in c7 in some lines if you 0-0-0, and the bishop on e7 have an eye on the knight on f6 and f7 doesn't need to be defended. Of course, this is just a general approach, and in some lines that could change.
A good way for you to research this, just gather a good number of masters games and do a comparison on piece placement, plans used and results. Leave Stockfish for specific lines, the more tactical the better, because detailed/niche variations by the engine are not going to explain you in words what's going on. 
And of course, I can be wrong.

chessterd5

I think FM Charly has a good idea. gather some master games and do a comparison of pieces placement. you should start recognizing patterns and themes in the development. not to throw a monkey wrench in to the plans, but I have seen instances of playing g5 and Bg7.

CharlyAZ
chessterd5 wrote:

I think FM Charly has a good idea. gather some master games and do a comparison of pieces placement. you should start recognizing patterns and themes in the development. not to throw a monkey wrench in to the plans, but I have seen instances of playing g5 and Bg7.

In the classical line with h4-h5 probably that g5 isn't a good idea happy.png my comment was about that line. However, I have played some games with the line Nh3-f4 (or Ne2-f4) where the idea you mention was pertinent.