x
Chess - Play & Learn

Chess.com

FREE - In Google Play

FREE - in Win Phone Store

VIEW

Chess rating system

  • #101
    tooeasy1 wrote: dbalanza2 wrote:

    Well I love chess.com, but I have to critizice one thing that has to do with ratings. The rating adjustment adjusts itself to the actual rating when you end the game, I believe it should be adjusted according to the rating players had when the game began.

     

    You might wonder why?, well let's say I have 1200 rating and start a game against a 1500 player, while this game lasts I lose 5 games and decrease my rating to 900. Then I win against the 1500 guy and increase to 1300. That seems somehow unfair to me because the 1500 guy didn't expect to lose 400 rating points against a 1200.  This also works the other way around, that is if the 1200 guy increases to 1600 and then wins his fisrt game against the 1500, then he will only gain a few points, when he should win more for having faced a much higher rank opponent at first.

     The second thing is that many people, because of this, resign early from games they believe might lose, so that their rating decreases and then win another game against higher rated opponents and increase their ratings excessively. 

     

    I hope you understand my points, please get back to tell me what you think.  


    I'm not really sure that what you said is right-no offense. But it does make sense.


     we had it that way to start i believe, and then changed it. no matter which way we do it somebody will like it the other way :) i like it the way it is because a rating is an approximation of your strength, and the most RECENT rating is the most accurate. it isn't about managing your rating - it's about having an accurate rating. 


  • #102
    I think my rateing is influnced far more by the amount of sleep I getTongue out
  • #103

    I have a real life chess rating, and it is way, way lower than the one here.  I have spoken to a few players, and they all report the same rating inflation.  There is a trick you can use if you want to inflate your rating further - never play anyone with a low rating -- you can loose big time, they can only gain --- ever noticed the not less than massive rating requests? - OK I suppose if you are that good, perhaps playing us mere mortals is a bit below them, but as far as I'm concerned it does not matter, it's a just a game --- or is it?????

     

    Here's a link I think gives a fairer estimate ... http://www.chessmaniac.com/ELORating/ELO_Chess_Rating.shtml

     

     


  • #104
    viswanathan wrote: turtle wrote: i am starting to understand the rating system, but how do you determine points during a game? are certain peices worth different points? 

    turtle, the general points system followed is as follows:

    pawn - 1pt.

    knight/bishop - 3pts.

    rook - 5pts.

    queen - 10pts.

    of course points are not everything... the position of your piece also matters.. for example you might not mind losing a bishop or rook to save a pawn on the 7th row.. and points dont have any bearing on the game result.. it is just a basic framework to help beginners understand the value of different pieces


    My chess teacher has taught me a queens is worth 9

  • #105

    O pai já vai!!

     

  • #106

    MAs podem crer k o pai ja vai msm!!

     

  • #107

    Come on FC PORTOOOOOOOOOOO.......let´s put schalke 04 out of order!!!

  • #108
    Rating is helpful for finding your apropriate match for the day. Whatever class you choose to play for that day.
  • #109
    jona004 wrote: Too true Hunadora. Last season i had to play for our first team, as they were short of players that night, against someone graded 1632. My grading by the way was 1288 ( 344 points lower ). Anyway, because he thought i was an easy win, started doing things that he wouldn't have done against a stonger player, such as castling when he should of, etc...Anyway, he ended up losing, and then to top it off, started having a hissy fit strop by accusing me of messing with the clock during his move ( both on the flag ). Luckily everyone who'd finished was watching our game, and promply corrected him that nothing of the like occured.

    i agree i played 4 cornwall mens this year against devon im not actually fide rated but im ecf'd at about 120 and i was playin a 150 he thought i was gonna be easy so he got into a dodgy nimzo indian as white and i fought and got a draw

  • #110
    thanx
  • #111
    this is a great and interesting post thread. i personally think that i am a good chess player yet i wont play people anymore because i feel too pressured with the psychology that is ratings. they are a paradox as you couldnt have chess without them as there would be no emphasis to win, but myself personally i dont think i can play chess with them. in chess the saying its the taking part that counts could not be less true, as winning is everything, therefore ratings are an integral part of the game.
  • #112
    viswanathan wrote: turtle wrote: i am starting to understand the rating system, but how do you determine points during a game? are certain peices worth different points? 

    turtle, the general points system followed is as follows:

    pawn - 1pt.

    knight/bishop - 3pts.

    rook - 5pts.

    queen - 10pts.

    of course points are not everything... the position of your piece also matters.. for example you might not mind losing a bishop or rook to save a pawn on the 7th row.. and points dont have any bearing on the game result.. it is just a basic framework to help beginners understand the value of different pieces


    That is so true, I once had to give up a knight and a rook to gain position for the mate that I got within the next couple of moves... I was proud of myself. lol   But I've been told to keep in mind that having two bishops is more powerful than one bishop and one knight and likewise two bishops are stronger than two knights.  I'm guessing because the two bishops can command both colors and this always isn't the case with two knights.  Any thoughts on this?  I think I'd personally rather have 2 bishops rather than two knights. 


  • #113
    viswanathan wrote: turtle wrote: i am starting to understand the rating system, but how do you determine points during a game? are certain peices worth different points? 

    turtle, the general points system followed is as follows:

    pawn - 1pt.

    knight/bishop - 3pts.

    rook - 5pts.

    queen - 10pts.

    of course points are not everything... the position of your piece also matters.. for example you might not mind losing a bishop or rook to save a pawn on the 7th row.. and points dont have any bearing on the game result.. it is just a basic framework to help beginners understand the value of different pieces


     My Chess teacher says the Queen is 9 points!!!!!!!!CryTongue out


  • #114

    i dont get it

     


  • #115
    I have a question about ratings when you resign instead of wait for the opponent to get the checkmate.  I played someone, I will not say the name, and we neared the end of the game and he asked me to resign.  There was no real way for me to win but I wanted to fight on for as long as I had some pieces on the board.  Although I did wait for some time and I knew the checkmate would be soon it was just useless eventually, so I did resign as he requested.  I looked into his archives and he has never allowed a checkmate that I could see.  Losing not often because he is 1500+ he always resigns before the checkmate or lets the clock run out.  I challenged him for a rematch and he refused typing in the reason that my rating was too low.  Is it normal to get less points against you if you resign than if you wait for the eventual checkmate?  I am just learning but if the outcome is evident and even though I am still studying end game and how to avoid a checkmate and possibly getting a pawn to the other side for a queen, is it advisable to just resign (point wise)?  This doesn't seem like a sportsmanlike thing to do and is a little bit timid to just resign every time.  A lame resignation is so boring even if the GM's do it all the time.  To just let the clock run out is also lame to prevent a checkmate.  Do you get less points taken off to let the clock run out if you are doing badly?   
  • #116
    Also, I have gotten several draws, about 6, I think because I either stayed in the game when most really good players would have resigned, even though they would lose points.  I received points for the stalemate, "draw", which is better any day than a resignation in my book.  Though to stay in the game is to risk almost certain checkmate, you could possibly get a draw.  Why lose points when you can gain points?  Maybe the checkmate is a scar on your record so some players just resign rather than to grub it out and actually make points in a draw.  Is a draw worse than a checkmate or a resignation?  Points are too often the only object rather than actually learning the game and just having fun.  I think the road to being a really good player is to learn regardless of losing your spotless "no checkmate" record.  I don't really blame players who have the tendency to resign if they have already achieved competentcy.  It really is a personal choice, and I have gotten bored myself and just resigned, but at this point I don't plan on asking anyone else to.  Thanks,  Chess.com.  I am having a lot of fun.    
  • #117
    I'm a bit suspicious... My current rating is almost 1600. It just can't be correct. But still, I just beat a 1500 player, and I have slaughtered several 1200-1300 players. On the other hand, my rating on FICS (just to name one) is ca 1000, and my RD is much much lower there. Then again, thats a blitz rating... I just don't know what to make of this. Is there any way to see the RD here without getting a premium membership?
  • #118

    The only problem I see with the rating system is that the odds you get when playing against newly registered users (with 1200) when you have like 1600.  Since they haven't played any games, you could easilly run into a player who's real elo is 2000. And against an opponent like that, you should get much better point "odds" - but when you loose your rating will drop like 200, and if you win it will only go up like 20... Even when he's a lot better than you. On the other hand, if that player has already played 10 games instead of 0, his chess.com rating will probably be around 2000 - and then you can play against him with good odds. Anyone get my point here?


  • #119
    mackandstella wrote: viswanathan wrote: turtle wrote: i am starting to understand the rating system, but how do you determine points during a game? are certain peices worth different points? 

    turtle, the general points system followed is as follows:

    pawn - 1pt.

    knight/bishop - 3pts.

    rook - 5pts.

    queen - 10pts.

    of course points are not everything... the position of your piece also matters.. for example you might not mind losing a bishop or rook to save a pawn on the 7th row.. and points dont have any bearing on the game result.. it is just a basic framework to help beginners understand the value of different pieces


    My chess teacher has taught me a queens is worth 9


     And your chess teacher is right. A queen is worth 9. That is also the value she has on chess.com


  • #120
    NotAGM (post #145) - I got 1545 on the 'fair ELO' link http://www.chessmaniac.com/ELORating/ELO_Chess_Rating.shtml- not bad really, given that's where my rating has tended to gravitate towards (am currently 1654, but a historic high and a little misleading - players at this level on this site are generally better than me)
Top

Online Now