Deleting your other post, and reposting on the same subject isn't going to solve your problem. AGAIN...Strategy, and pawn structure are not your issue.
Not following opening principles are.
Missing simple tactics are.
Hanging material is.
How to improve the structure of my pawns.
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Well just think about how the pawn structure will change with every pawn move you or your opponents makes. Whether it will create doubled pawns, and if so whether they are opposite an open file or isolated, what pawn breaks you have, whether they are on the same colour as your bishop, whether you or your opponent has squares you can no longer defend with pawns etc.
Dec 26, 2018
0
#6
ashishs1256 wrote:
I just wanted to word it better, that is it.
Again...pawn structures, and strategy are NOT why youre losing games. If youre serious about improving, you need to work on the following:
Follow opening principles.
Not hanging material.
Not missing simple tactics.
Dec 26, 2018
0
#7
Scottrf wrote:
Well just think about how the pawn structure will change with every pawn move you or your opponents makes. Whether it will create doubled pawns, and if so whether they are opposite an open file or isolated, what pawn breaks you have, whether they are on the same colour as your bishop, whether you or your opponent has squares you can no longer defend with pawns etc.
Thanks, will focus on this in my next games
Dec 26, 2018
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#8
IMBacon wrote:
ashishs1256 wrote:
I just wanted to word it better, that is it.
Again...pawn structures, and strategy are NOT why youre losing games. If youre serious about improving, you need to work on the following:
Follow opening principles.
Not hanging material.
Not missing simple tactics.
I know, and I appreciate the information, but I would like to be able to incorporate pawn structure technique into my games, that is it.
Dec 26, 2018
0
#9
ashishs1256 wrote:
IMBacon wrote:
ashishs1256 wrote:
I just wanted to word it better, that is it.
Again...pawn structures, and strategy are NOT why youre losing games. If youre serious about improving, you need to work on the following:
Follow opening principles.
Not hanging material.
Not missing simple tactics.
I know, and I appreciate the information, but I would like to be able to incorporate pawn structure technique into my games, that is it.
Understood, but how are you going to implement something new into your game, when you are still not doing the basics?
Think of it this way, because this is what you are asking...
I want to learn how to speed read, but i don't know how to read.
I want to learn trigonometry, but i don't know basic math.
I want to perform brain surgery, but i don't know basic first aid.
Do you get what im saying?
Win before the pawn structure starts to matter. Or care more about your pawns.
IMBacon is completely right. I just looked at your last three losses a g/20.
In one of them you lose because you failed to move a piece that was attacked by a pawn. In another you failed to notice a simple checkmate threat by your opponent. In the third you lost to a relatively simple forced tactical sequence, and then promptly moves a piece to a square where it could be taken for free.
Nothing else matters for your chess improvement at this point. Literally the only thing that will make any difference at all is basic tactics and board vision: not hanging pieces, noticing when they're attacked, not moving them to squares where they can be taken, seeing one- and two- move threats.
That's it. Anything else you do is a complete waste of your time at this point.
Dec 26, 2018
0
#12
Pawn structure is rather difficult to study: Its changes are often dictated by an opponent, broad generalizations are only true some of the time, and every move has to be deeply considered both for immediate tactics AND long-term considerations. Sometimes, even a forced sequence where you win material isn't worth it if you have to make a pawn move.
Some basic ideas
Pawn Islands:
Classical chess theory (from Capablanca) states that pawn structure - once broken - is made of islands. Pawns on adjacent files are in the same island, and, if the game simplifies to a rook ending (for example) the player with the fewest pawn islands is said to have a better structure. All other things being equal, your position is likely better if you have two pawn islands to your opponent's three
Pawn Levers
These are your means of cracking open a closed section of the board. One of the reasons it's sometimes considered dubious to make too many pawn moves is that the position might lock, leaving you few or no pawn levers to work with. Always try to keep in mind at least one place to hit your opponent's structure.
Here's a very well known crossroads in the Ruy Lopez. About half the games in my database give white's next move as a4, the other half go d4, but - whichever is played first - the other follows soon after. In closed positions, look for levers!
Doubled, tripled, and isolated pawns: Exactly what they sound like. Double and triple refer to pawns stacked on the same file, and isolated pawns are those with no friendly pawns on either side of them. Some doubled pawns control a lot of space and are therefore dangerous...but tripled pawns are virtually always weak.
The trick with these guys is that they all control space, they all want to go forward, and they're all wary of piece trades. If your opponent stops them from moving, trades your defenders, and gangs up on your weakies, you may be in for a lot of suffering. Conversely, if your opponent can't stop them, there are unique dynamic possibilities (I've seen at least one tripled pawn mating puzzle!)
Here's an example of doubled pawns helping white control the center. White can immediately trade the 'weak' pawn for a strong central pawn of black's, and white's pawns simply dominate
Isolated Queen Pawn: This is its own animal....it's not a single position but a constellation of positions with both white and black. You need to learn how to play with and against the isolated queen pawn, and it's kind of beyond the scope of what I'm doing. There are some great articles and lectures, so do a little work, and you'll get it.
Theoretical position in the French, black has the IQP
Backward Pawns: These are pawns that end up stuck behind their friends...perhaps they've been stopped from moving or (more commonly) they're defending another pawn that would be lost if they went forward. When you watch Grandmasters commentate on 'targets' in someone's position, they're almost always doubled, isolated, or backward.
Equal material...unequal position
A game which demonstrates the power of these ideas
https://www.chess.com/article/view/how-to-start-out-in-chess
An introduction to some pawn ideas can be found in Simple Chess by Michael Stean.
https://web.archive.org/web/20140708104258/http://www.chesscafe.com/text/review400.pdf
http://store.doverpublications.com/0486424200.html
Perhaps also consider Amateur's Mind by Jeremy Silman.
https://web.archive.org/web/20140708094419/http://www.chesscafe.com/text/ammind.pdf
https://www.silmanjamespress.com/shop/chess/amateurs-mind-the-2nd-edition/
When I play a longer game, I usually end up losing because my opponent gets passed pawns, as my pawns structure is really bad. How can I improve the way I build their structure?