Please share a little of your knowledge about the endgames ♚

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ESP-918

For example the The_Chin_Of_Quinn shared I really like, as it's something knowledgeable.

"Knight endgames are pawn endgames."

Basically because many of the evaluations are the same. Like how outside passers are great, being a pawn up (usually) means you're just winning, and it's important to calculate concrete lines.

So if you can take the knights off and it's a winning pawn endgame, then with knights not much changes. That's the basic idea.

fieldsofforce

 Give me an endgame that you would like to know some technical details about.

ESP-918

I'm talking about in general, general rules, principals etc..

LI keep a previous guy did I gave you an example , he said something that you can relate to any game not just particular one

fieldsofforce

R + p endgames are almost always a draw.

ESP-918

Something like :

The opposite-colored bishops endgame.Without other pieces (but with pawns) these endings are notorious for their tendency to result in a draw.

King and a pawn versus a king. If the king can get to the square in front of the pawn, for a rook pawn it's always a draw.

A king and two knights cannot force checkmate against a lone king.

fieldsofforce
ESP-918 wrote:

Something like :

The opposite-colored bishops endgame.Without other pieces (but with pawns) these endings are notorious for their tendency to result in a draw.

King and a pawn versus a king. If the king can get to the square in front of the pawn, for a rook pawn it's always a draw.

A king and two knights cannot force checkmate against a lone king.

                                                                ____________________________

Did you know that in the forced checkmate endgames (K+Q v. K, K+R v K, K+2B v K, K+B+N v K, and K+2b v K+N) the same corralling technique is used. 

Uncle_Bent

In Rook and Pawn endgames, having the active rook (where your opponent has the passive rook) is almost always worth at least a pawn.  Thus if you are in a R+P ending, with even pawns, but with a passive rook, it is often better to offer a pawn to get your rook active -- especially if your opponent's rook becomes passive during a pawn capture.

Most rook and pawn endgames have a lot of tactical tricks in them, which is why a player that enjoys tactics and active pieces usually has the "instincts" for good play.

Uncle_Bent

Just read this 10 minutes ago, while reading a book by C.J. Purdy -- "If you reach an endgame and have the opportunity to convert a pawn majority in to a passed pawn, FIRST centralize/develop your other pieces."  Common sense,of course, but, the problem with common sense in endings is that by the time we reach most contested endings, we have a shortage of time, and often forgo common sense for the sake of expediency.

XoJIo4eLI_N_Bo4Ka

Order of piece activity in endgames:

  1. Queen
  2. Rook
  3. King
  4. Bishop/Knight

 

Centralized position means keeping all four corners of the board within reach.

Rooks behind passed pawns can be used as a pike to penetrate your opponent's position.

Know the Lucena position for both sides.

fieldsofforce
2Q1C wrote:
  1. Get your king close to the action – ideally in front of your own pawns.
  2. Cut the enemy king off from the action when you can.
  3. Rooks should be placed behind passed pawns – your pawns or your opponent’s pawns.
  4. Advance your good pawns to increase your chances of creating a passed pawn.
  5. Attack your opponents weak pawns to force your opponent’s pieces into defensive positions.
  6. Place your pieces on squares where they restrict the mobility of your opponents pieces.
  7. If you have a material advantage, it is good to exchange pieces but keep pawns. Exchanging pawns increases your opponent’s drawing chances. The less pieces there are on the board, the more important the pawns become.
  8. If you have an advantage, you should leave pawns on both sides of the board so that your opponent will be forced to defend on both sides of the board.
  9. If you have one bishop, put your pawns on the opposite colour squares – this way you can control squares with your pawns which the bishop can’t control.
  10. The bishop pair (two bishops) are usually very powerful in the endgame, possibly worth at least an extra pawn.
  11. The best piece to block a pawn with is a knight. This is because the knight also attacks the squares from where other pawns can protect the blocked pawn.
  12. Passed pawns should be pushed forward and supported by all your pieces. Remember – promoting a pawn can often be as good as checkmate since you will be able to force a win with a new queen.
  13. Passed pawns on the edge of the board is a key advantage since you can use it to distract your opponent’s pieces (or king) away from other targets.
  14. A bishop is usually slightly better than a knight when the action is on both sides of the board. However, when the pawns are only on one side of the board, the knight can be more useful since it can reach both the light and dark squares.
  15. Bishops on opposite colour squares tends to often lead to a draw even when one player has an extra pawn or two.
  16. Create threats on both sides of the board. This may cause your opponent’s pieces to become overloaded with defensive tasks and give you an opportunity to promote a pawn by a tactical combination.

 

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. If I think up more I'll let you know.

                                                            __________________________

All generalities that are good guideposts.  But, the technical details of how to accomplish these goals, the step by step know how, the endgame technique is not described.

I know how to execute these technical sorties.  If you would like to know how post an example interactive diagram and I will go through the position step by step.

fieldsofforce
Uncle_Bent wrote:

In Rook and Pawn endgames, having the active rook (where your opponent has the passive rook) is almost always worth at least a pawn.  Thus if you are in a R+P ending, with even pawns, but with a passive rook, it is often better to offer a pawn to get your rook active -- especially if your opponent's rook becomes passive during a pawn capture.

Most rook and pawn endgames have a lot of tactical tricks in them, which is why a player that enjoys tactics and active pieces usually has the "instincts" for good play.

                                                                   ___________________________

 

The technical detail that is not mentioned in this post is:  Almost always there must be at least 2 weaknesses in the enemy's position in order to exploit the advantage and convert a winning endgame into a won endgame.

fieldsofforce
Uncle_Bent wrote:

Just read this 10 minutes ago, while reading a book by C.J. Purdy -- "If you reach an endgame and have the opportunity to convert a pawn majority in to a passed pawn, FIRST centralize/develop your other pieces."  Common sense,of course, but, the problem with common sense in endings is that by the time we reach most contested endings, we have a shortage of time, and often forgo common sense for the sake of expediency.

                                                                            _________________

 

So true.  The strong player has an endgame visualization pattern memory bank.  He uses those memory banks as shortcuts in calculating the winning plan in the position before him.  The shortcuts save time without the stress of calculating and concentrating.

fieldsofforce
XoJIo4eLI_N_Bo4Ka wrote:

Order of piece activity in endgames:

  1. Queen
  2. Rook
  3. King
  4. Bishop/Knight

 

Centralized position means keeping all four corners of the board within reach.

Rooks behind passed pawns can be used as a pike to penetrate your opponent's position.

Know the Lucena position for both sides.

                                                                     _________________________

First, think to yourself, do you know what the Lucena Position is?  Can you execute the Lucena Position in your sleep.  I know I have that ability because I have practiced the Lucena Position many times.  Also the Philidor Position and many other postions.  Ex. In same color B ending (K+B+p v. K+B) How do you force the enemy B without a p to the short diagonal in order to promote the pawn.

XoJIo4eLI_N_Bo4Ka
fieldsofforce wrote:
XoJIo4eLI_N_Bo4Ka wrote:

Order of piece activity in endgames:

  1. Queen
  2. Rook
  3. King
  4. Bishop/Knight

 

Centralized position means keeping all four corners of the board within reach.

Rooks behind passed pawns can be used as a pike to penetrate your opponent's position.

Know the Lucena position for both sides.

                                                                     _________________________

First, think to yourself, do you know what the Lucena Position is?  Can you execute the Lucena Position in your sleep.  I know I have that ability because I have practiced the Lucena Position many times.  Also the Philidor Position and many other postions.  Ex. In same color B ending (K+B+p v. K+B) How do you force the enemy B without a p to the short diagonal in order to promote the pawn.

 

He said share "a little knowledge", not make a lecture. My apologies if my sharing is too small. It is as much as I can type time-permitting.

fieldsofforce
XoJIo4eLI_N_Bo4Ka wrote:
fieldsofforce wrote:
XoJIo4eLI_N_Bo4Ka wrote:

Order of piece activity in endgames:

  1. Queen
  2. Rook
  3. King
  4. Bishop/Knight

 

Centralized position means keeping all four corners of the board within reach.

Rooks behind passed pawns can be used as a pike to penetrate your opponent's position.

Know the Lucena position for both sides.

                                                                     _________________________

First, think to yourself, do you know what the Lucena Position is?  Can you execute the Lucena Position in your sleep.  I know I have that ability because I have practiced the Lucena Position many times.  Also the Philidor Position and many other postions.  Ex. In same color B ending (K+B+p v. K+B) How do you force the enemy B without a p to the short diagonal in order to promote the pawn.

 

He said share "a little knowledge", not make a lecture. My apologies if my sharing is too small. It is as much as I can type time-permitting.

                                                                             ______________________

No,  offense intended.  I just know endgame technique cold.  I don't know everything.  I'm just here to pay it forward by sharing what I know.

TalSpin

Learn how to keep the opposition using the square rule. It saves a little time trying to calculate.

fieldsofforce
TalSpin wrote:

Learn how to keep the opposition using the square rule. It saves a little time trying to calculate.

Yes, the opposition.  When the Ks stand one square apart facing each other.  Whoever has to move loses because they have to back up or step sideways relinquishing control of the square  they were just on.

What about the distant opposition,  Triangulation.  Did you know that stalemate and self stalemate are excellent weapons for drawing a lost position.

MickinMD

Staying with the opposition theme, if you have a choice of getting a passed pawn on a Bishop's file, Knight's file, or Rook's file, pick the Bishop's file first and Knight's file second because, even with the opposition, the opponent's king can usually wedge himself into the corner vs a RP and sometimes against a NP.

Slow_pawn
I won't be using this post to sell instructional chess books or anything, but when I first learned the Lucena I learned more than just how to win the position, I also grasped the idea of building a bridge and using it for other types of endgames as well. Anyway, incorporating that idea into my play helped me, just thought I'd pass it on.
Monie49
Passed pawns must be pushed!