My thought process went something like; first analysing the position, material seems to be balanced, but black has both the bishop pair and white has an isolated pawn, so this is already a decent edge for black. With those two ideas in mind, when playing against the isolated pawn you want to trade as many pieces as possible and blockade the past pawn to eventually pick it up. So I thought Nxe4 Nxe4 Bd5 Nxd6 Qxd6 Qc5 Qxc5 dxc5 Bxg2 Kxg2 a4 black is definitely for choice, however i fixed whites pawn structure and gave up the bishop pair for no reason. Therefore I went back and revised my variation to Nxe4 Nxe4 Bf8 Nc5 Bd5 and black is clearly for choice, the isolated pawn is blockaded, blacks rooks are active, white's knight is nice, but useless and black has a centralized queen (after the exchange of the bishops on either d5 or g2) and a bishop on f8 that is out of the way, and although not too useful right now, can spring to life at any moment. My variation was basically born out of the idea of preserving the bishop pair, trading pieces and blockading the pawn. You seemed to only really calculate Be7 and didn't take stock of the entire position. Knowing what to play for is half the battle in rapid. Hope this helps.
What's the thought process of a 2000+
first i see both sides weaknesses. white has the 3 pawn islands with an isolated pawn and lost the bishop pair. black has a really weak c6 pawn that will be targetted soon.
so i want to keep the bishop pair and also want to get rid of the c6 weakness. i can see there's no way to get rid of the c6 weakness right now so i instead look at ways to keep the bishop pair. Nd5 could be a thing but idk i think it's better to focus on the bishop pair.
the b8-f4 diagonal is dead so my candidate moves for keeping the bishop pair are Be7, Nxe4, Bf8 and Bb8.
Nxe4 opens the c file so that's bad. Bb8 and Bf8 mean my queen is stuck protecting the f6 kngiht so i don't really like that. so i would play Be7.
there's also Bf5 and Bc4 but i wouldn't spend much time on that.
i probably would spend 2 mins max on playing Be7.
My thought process went something like; first analysing the position, material seems to be balanced, but black has both the bishop pair and white has an isolated pawn, so this is already a decent edge for black. With those two ideas in mind, when playing against the isolated paw you want to trade as many pieces as possible and blockade the past pawn to eventually pick it up. So I thought Nxe4 Nxe4 Bd5 Nxd6 Qxd6 Qc5 Qxc5 dxc5 Bxg2 Kxg2 a4 black is definitely for choice, however i fixed whites pawn structure and gave up the bishop pair for no reason. Therefore I went back and revised my variation to Nxe4 Nxe4 Bf8 Nc5 Bd5 and black is clearly for choice, the isolated pawn is blockaded, blacks rooks are active, white's knight is nice, but useless and black has a centralized queen (after the exchange of the bishops on either d5 or g2) and a bishop on f8 that is out of the way, and although not too useful right now, can spring to life at any moment. My variation was basically born out of the idea of preserving the bishop pair, trading pieces and blockading the pawn. You seemed to only really calculate Be7 and didn't take stock of the entire position. Knowing what to play for is half the battle in rapid. Hope this helps.
Thanks guys I read all the responses already. 
I think I can see now.
My idea was Bf5 to change the initiative to Black... I keep the Bishop pair due to the pin with pressure and I like my position after Nxf6 Qxf6
In a 10+0 game I would see b5-b4-b3 gaining tempi and play it after three seconds deliberation 😂
I'm playing Bf5 after 1 second and not even considering any other move or even bother calculating. Why retreat when you can put on more pressure, or force white to trade under your terms. Nxf6 Qxf6 looks amazing for us, gain of multiple tempos. Also we're threatening b4.
The ...Bf5 pin would be my first consideration, for tactical pressure.
...Be7 or ...Bf8 would be my second and third choices, in that order.
The e6 bishop can go to c4 at any moment to hit the f1 rook - but I'd want to save it to use if possible at the best moment to *displace* the rook, and not use it carelessly as a way to encourage White to *improve* his rook.
Pawn to ...a6 is also a slower plan to keep in mind at some point, if White puts a rook on d1, to threaten the e6 bishop swooping in with a pin on the queen.
And pawn to ...b4 to kick the knight away at any moment, too ...
Really, Black is so comfortable here that I don't think there's any wrong answer. Just play reasonable moves that don't hang anything, and Black really isn't in any danger of losing.
My thought processes at the chess-board go something like this:
What they think I'm thinking about:
What I'm REALLY thinking about:
Am I weird for wanting to play Bf5?? 😭
You're not, my first instinct was also Bf5.
My thought processes at the chess-board go something like this:
What they think I'm thinking about:
What I'm REALLY thinking about:
Hah!
One thing that annoys me about watching Hikaru play blitz is how often he draws all these arrows, calculating these long forcing lines.
Here I am, nodding along with a notepad, trying to keep up.
Then he finally bobs his head and plays a move that he didn't even mention it at all.
No, Bf5 should be the top choice for any 2000+ blitz/bullet player and probably played within a second.
Immediately puts the time pressure back on white, keeps tension in a better position and asks white if he wants to trade on your terms. Makes it harder for white to play a move. In a classical game I would spend 10 seconds to make sure it doesn't blunder anything but would play it quickly.
This position calls for active play and immediately putting pressure on white, not slow moves.
Trading on e4 is nonsense, white's knight on c3 is awkward blocking the c file and is a target for a potential b4. Gives up a tempo to let white move his piece into a better square. Be7 is slow nonsense that doesn't ask white any questions. I mean white can practically play Rad1 without thinking at all either. All those moves simply force white to play the obvious good move and doesn't really help your position.
Black to play
Take a look at the position. Think as if it's your tournament game. I really want actual advice.
For me, the first move to calculate is the most important. Be7 natural. so:
1...Be7 Then I would pause and think what ideas white has and I cold find 3
if Nxf6 Bxf6 I calculated a few more lines and conclude that I win the d pawn.
1...Be7 if Nc5 2...Qxd4 Nxe6 3...fxe6 Rad1 I pause a bit and conclude after 4...Qc5 black wins the d pawn
1...Be7 if Rad1 I pause again 2...Qb6 white can't play d5 yet and could play Rfe1 I dont see any other ideas for white in this line so I conclude that at least I dont lose.
So I play Be7 : )
That took me a long time to calculate silently and feel confident to play it.(It's a daily game) I want to use this way of thinking in my 10|0 rapid game but in some positions I just can't find the idea for myself and I endup being able to consider only 1 move which turns out to be a bad move and I would lose the game.
Does anyone have the same problem with me? Thanks