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Opening Main article: Chess opening A chess opening is the group of initial moves of a game (the "opening moves"). Recognized sequences of opening moves are referred to as openings and have been given names such as the Ruy Lopez or Sicilian Defense. They are catalogued in reference works such as the Encyclopaedia of Chess Openings. There are dozens of different openings, varying widely in character from quiet positional play (for example, the Réti Opening) to very aggressive (the Latvian Gambit). In some opening lines, the exact sequence considered best for both sides has been worked out to more than 30 moves.[21] Professional players spend years studying openings and continue doing so throughout their careers, as opening theory continues to evolve. The fundamental strategic aims of most openings are similar:[22] Development: This is the technique of placing the pieces (particularly bishops and knights) on useful squares where they will have an optimal impact on the game. Control of the center: Control of the central squares allows pieces to be moved to any part of the board relatively easily, and can also have a cramping effect on the opponent. King safety: It is critical to keep the king safe from dangerous possibilities. A correctly timed castling can often enhance this. Pawn structure: Players strive to avoid the creation of pawn weaknesses such as isolated, doubled, or backward pawns, and pawn islands – and to force such weaknesses in the opponent's position. Most players and theoreticians consider that White, by virtue of the first move, begins the game with a small advantage. This initially gives White the initiative.[23] Black usually strives to neutralize White's advantage and achieve equality, or to develop dynamic counterplayin an unbalanced position. Middlegame Main article: Chess middlegame The middlegame is the part of the game which starts after the opening. There is no clear line between the opening and the middlegame, but typically the middlegame will start when most pieces have been developed. (Similarly, there is no clear transition from the middlegame to the endgame; see start of the endgame.) Because the opening theory has ended, players have to form plans based on the features of the position, and at the same time take into account the tactical possibilities of the position.[24] The middlegame is the phase in which most combinations occur. Combinations are a series of tactical moves executed to achieve some gain. Middlegame combinations are often connected with an attack against the opponent's king. Some typical patterns have their own names; for example, the Boden's Mate or the Lasker–Bauer combination.[25] Specific plans or strategic themes will often arise from particular groups of openings which result in a specific type of pawn structure. An example is the minority attack, which is the attack of queenside pawns against an opponent who has more pawns on the queenside. The study of openings is therefore connected to the preparation of plans that are typical of the resulting middlegames.[26] Another important strategic question in the middlegame is whether and how to reduce material and transition into an endgame (i.e. simplify). Minor material advantages can generally be transformed into victory only in an endgame, and therefore the stronger side must choose an appropriate way to achieve an ending. Not every reduction of material is good for this purpose; for example, if one side keeps a light-squared bishop and the opponent has a dark-squared one, the transformation into a bishops and pawns ending is usually advantageous for the weaker side only, because an endgame with bishops on opposite colors is likely to be a draw, even with an advantage of a pawn, or sometimes even with a two-pawn advantage.[27] Endgame Main article: Chess endgame Example of zugzwang a b c d e f g h 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 a b c d e f g h The side having to move is at a disadvantage. The endgame (also end game or ending) is the stage of the game when there are few pieces left on the board. There are three main strategic differences between earlier stages of the game and the endgame:[28] Pawns become more important. Endgames often revolve around endeavors to promote a pawn by advancing it to the furthest rank. The king, which required safeguarding from checkmate in the middlegame, emerges as a strong piece in the endgame. It is often brought to the center of the board where it can protect its own pawns, attack enemy pawns, and hinder moves of the opponent's king. Zugzwang, disadvantageous since it forces a player to move, is often a factor in endgames but rarely in other stages of the game. In the example diagram, either side having the move is in zugzwang: Black to move must play 1...Kb7 allowing White to promote the pawn after 2.Kd7; White to move must permit a draw, either by 1.Kc6 stalemate or by losing the pawn after any other legal move. Endgames can be classified according to the type of pieces remaining on the board. Basic checkmates are positions in which one side has only a king and the other side has one or two pieces and can checkmate the opposing king, with the pieces working together with their king. For example, king and pawn endgames involve only kings and pawns on one or both sides, and the task of the stronger side is to promote one of the pawns. Other more complicated endings are classified according to pieces on the board other than kings, such as "rook and pawn versus rook" endgames.

The following information was obtained from www.wikipedia.com: Castling Main article: Castling Examples of castling Once in every game, each king is allowed to make a special move, known as castling. Castling consists of moving the king two squares along the first rank toward a rook (which is on the player's first rank[note 2]) and then placing the rook on the last square that the king has just crossed. Castling is permissible under the following conditions:[5] Neither the king nor the rook have previously moved during the game. There cannot be any pieces between the king and the rook. The king cannot be in check, nor can the king pass through squares that are under attack by enemy pieces, or move to a square where it would result in a check. Note that castling is permissible if the rook is attacked, or if the rook crosses a square that is attacked. En passant Main article: En passant Examples of pawn moves: promotion (left); en passant (right) When a pawn advances two squares from its starting position and there is an opponent's pawn on an adjacent file next to its destination square, then the opponent's pawn can capture it en passant (in passing), and move to the square the pawn passed over. This can only be done on the very next move, otherwise the right to do so is forfeit. For example, if the black pawn has just advanced two squares from g7 (initial starting position) to g5, then the white pawn on f5 may take it via en passant on g6 (but only on White's next move). Promotion Main article: Promotion (chess) When a pawn advances to the eighth rank, as a part of the move it is promoted and must be exchanged for the player's choice of queen, rook, bishop, or knight of the same color. Usually, the pawn is chosen to be promoted to a queen, but in some cases another piece is chosen; this is called underpromotion. In the diagram on the right, the pawn on c7 can be advanced to the eighth rank and be promoted to an allowed piece. There is no restriction placed on the piece that is chosen on promotion, so it is possible to have more pieces of the same type than at the start of the game (for example, two queens). Check Main article: Check (chess) a b c d e f g h 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 a b c d e f g h The black king is in check from the white rook. When a king is under immediate attack by one or two of the opponent's pieces, it is said to be in check. A response to a check is a legal move if it results in a position where the king is no longer under direct attack (that is, not in check). This can involve capturing the checking piece; interposing a piece between the checking piece and the king (which is possible only if the attacking piece is a queen, rook, or bishop and there is a square between it and the king); or moving the king to a square where it is not under attack. Castling is not a permissible response to a check. The object of the game is to checkmate the opponent; this occurs when the opponent's king is in check, and there is no legal way to remove it from attack. It is illegal for a player to make a move that would put or leave the player's own king in check. In casual games it is common to announce "check" when putting the opponent's king in check, but this is not required by the rules of the game, and is not usually done in tournaments. End of the game Win a b c d e f g h 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 a b c d e f g h White is in checkmate, being unable to escape attack by the black bishops. Games can be won in the following ways: Checkmate: The player whose turn it is to move is in check and has no legal move to escape check. Resignation: Either player may resign, conceding the game to the opponent.[6] It is usually considered poor etiquette to play on in a truly hopeless position, and for this reason high-level games rarely end in checkmate. Win on time: In games with a time control, a player wins if the opponent runs out of time, even if the opponent has a much superior position, as long as the player still has a theoretical possibility to checkmate the opponent. Forfeit: A player who cheats, or violates the rules of the game, or violates the rules specified for the particular tournament can be forfeited. In high-level tournaments, players have been forfeited for such things as arriving late for the game (even by a matter of seconds), receiving a call or text on a cell phone, refusing to undergo a drug test, refusing to undergo a body search for electronic devices, and unsporting behavior (such as refusing to shake the opponent's hand). Draw a b c d e f g h 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 a b c d e f g h Black is not in check and has no legal move. The result is stalemate. There are several ways games can end in a draw: Draw by agreement: Draws are most commonly reached by mutual agreement between the players. The correct procedure is to verbally offer the draw, make a move, then start the opponent's clock. Traditionally, players have been allowed to agree to a draw at any point in the game, occasionally even without playing a move; in recent years efforts have been made to discourage short draws, for example by forbidding draw offers before move thirty. Stalemate: The player whose turn it is to move has no legal move and is not in check. Threefold repetition of position: This most commonly occurs when neither side is able to avoid repeating moves without incurring a disadvantage. In this situation, either player can claim a draw; this requires the players to keep a valid written record of the game so that the claim can be verified by the arbiter if challenged. The three occurrences of the position need not occur on consecutive moves for a claim to be valid. FIDE rules make no mention of perpetual check; this is merely a specific type of draw by threefold repetition. Fifty-move rule: If during the previous 50 moves no pawn has been moved and no capture has been made, either player can claim a draw. There are several known endgames where it is possible to force a mate but it requires more than 50 moves before a pawn move or capture is made; examples include some endgames with two knights against a pawn and some pawnless endgames such as queen against two bishops. Historically, FIDE has sometimes revised the 50-move rule to make exceptions for these endgames, but at present (as of 2017) no exceptions are made. Some correspondence chess organizations do not enforce the fifty-move rule.[note 3] Fivefold repetition of position: Similar to the threefold-repetition rule, but in this case neither player needs to claim the draw; thus a tournament director can intervene and declare the game to be drawn. This is a relatively recent (2014) addition to the FIDE rules. Seventy-five-move rule: Similar to the fifty-move rule; however, if the final move in the sequence resulted in checkmate, this takes precedence. As with the fivefold-repetition rule, this applies independently of claims by the players, and allows a tournament director to intervene. This rule likewise is a recent addition to the FIDE rules. Insufficient material: If neither player has a theoretical possibility to checkmate the opponent; for example, if a player has only the king and a knight left, and the opponent has only the king left, checkmate is impossible and the game is drawn by this rule. On the other hand, if both players have a king and a knight left, there is a highly unlikely yet theoretical possibility of checkmate, so this rule does not apply. Draw on time: In games with a time control, the game is drawn if a player is out of time and the opponent has no theoretical possibility to checkmate the player.

A Summary of Hints, Pointers and Precepts from the ABCs of Chess by Bruce Pandolfini 1. Be aggressive, but play soundly. Don't take unnecessary chances. 2. Make sure every move has a purpose. 3. If you know your opponent's style, take advantage of it. But, in the final analysis, play the board, not the player. 4. Don't ignore your opponent's moves. 5. Don't give needless checks. Check only when it makes sense. 6. Answer all threats. Try to do so by improving your position and/or posing a counter-threat. 7. Play for the initiative. If you already have it, maintain it. If you don't have it, seize it. 8. When exchanging, try to get at least as much as you give up. 9. Take with the man of least value, unless there is a definite reason for doing otherwise. 10.Cut your losses. If you must lose material, lose as little as possible. 11.If you blunder, don't give up fighting. After getting the advantage, your opponent may relax and let you escape. 12.Never play a risky move, hoping your opponent will overlook your threat, unless you have a losing position. In that case, you have nothing to lose. 13.Rely on your own powers. If you can't see the point of your opponent's move, assume there isn't any. 14.Don't sacrifice without good reason. 15.When you can't determine whether to accept or decline a sacrifice, accept it. 16.Attack in number. Don't rely on just one or two pieces. 17.Look for double attacks. 18.Play for the center: guard it, occupy it, influence it. 19.Fight for the center with pawns. 20.Don't make careless pawn moves. In the opening, move as few pawns as necessary to complete your development. 21.If feasible, move both center pawns two squares each. 22.In the opening, move only center pawns. Unless the opening system or situation requires otherwise. 23.Try to develop your Bishops before blocking them in by moving a center pawn just one square. 24.Develop your pieces quickly, preferably toward the center (especially Knights, which often are "grim on the rim"). 25.Develop purposefully, and not just for development's sake. 26.Don't waste time or moves. Try to develop a new piece on each turn. Don't move a piece twice in the opening without good reason. 27.Try to develop with threats, but don't threaten pointlessly. 28.Develop minor pieces early. King-side pieces should usually be developed sooner than Queen-side ones, and Knights before Bishops. 29.Develop during exchanges. 30.To exploit an advantage in development, attack. 31.In the opening, don't remove your Queen from play to "win" a pawn. 32.Don't bring out the Queen too early, unless the natural course of play requires it. 33.Try to give as much scope to your pieces as possible. Seize open lines. 34.Develop Rooks to open files, or to files likely to open. Castle early. 35.Try to prevent your opponent's King from castling. Keep it trapped in the center, especially in open games. 36.Try to pin your opponent's pieces. Avoid pins against your own pieces. 37.Don't capture pinned pieces until you can benefit from doing so. If possible, try to attack them again, especially with pawns. 38.After castling, don't move the pawns in front of your King without specific reason. 39.To attack the King, pick a target square around it. 40.When applicable, pick target squares on the color of your unopposed Bishop. (Bishops control squares of only one color. If you have a Bishop that controls dark squares and your opponent has exchanged his corresponding Bishop, your dark-squared Bishop is "unopposed" on those squares.) 41.Look for tactics especially on squares of the color controlled by your unopposed bishop. 42.Try to avoid early exchanges of Bishops for Knights. 43.Double your attacking pieces by building batteries (two or more pieces of like power attacking along the same line). Put queen and Rook(s) on the same file or rank, and Queen and Bishop on the same diagonal. 44.Build batteries with the less valuable men up front, unless tactics require otherwise. 45.Maximize the efficiency of your moves. Play flexibly. 46.To strengthen control of a file, double your major pieces (Rooks and/or Queen) on it. 47.Determine whether you have an open or closed game, and play accordingly. 48.Usually play to retain you Bishops in open games, and sometimes Knights in closed games. 49.To improve the scope of your Bishop, place your pawns on squares opposite in color to it. 50.Keep your weaknesses on the color opposite to that of your opponent's strongest Bishop. 51.Trade when ahead in material or when under attack, unless you have a sound reason for doing otherwise. Avoid trades when behind in material or when attacking. 52.Choose a plan and stay with it. Change it only if you should or must. 53.To gain space, you usually have to sacrifice time. 54.If cramped, free your game by exchanging material. 55.Trade bad minor pieces for good ones. 56.If the position is unsettled, disguise your plans: make noncommittal moves. 57.To gain space or open lines, advance pawns. 58.If the center is blocked, don't automatically castle. 59.If behind in development, keep the game closed. 60.Try to accumulate small advantages. 61.Try to dominate the seventh rank, especially with Rooks. 62.Use the analytic method. When you don't know what to do, first evaluated the position (as best you can), then ask pertinent questions about your analysis.

1. The beginning of the game (a.k.a. opening) should be viewed as a "race" with two goals: * to control as much of the board as possible * to develop most of the attacking pieces 2. Avoid moving the same piece twice during the opening. Remember the "race" - try to save moves. 3. Unless you really know what you're doing, and why, you should open the game, usually, with one of the center pawns (king's or queen's), moving forward 2 squares (that is, to d4 or e4). If you're playing Black and White has just opened with one of those moves, you should answer with the equivalent one (d5 or e5). 4. Develop your knights before your bishops. Knights belong in the board's center (f3/f6 and c3/c6). Move them there as soon as possible. However, it is okay to develop the f1/f8 bishop before the b1/b8 knight (in order to castle on the king’s side). 5. Trying to attack with the queen early in the game is usually not a good idea. Your opponent will be able to attack her with less valuable, protected pieces, which will force you to move your queen again and again, preventing you from developing the rest of your pieces, while he will be developing his. 6. After you have developed your knights and the bishops, you should probably castle. Castling helps protect your king and develop a rook. For the same reason, avoid moving the king before castling, as you can't castle if he has already moved. 7. Develop your rooks to central or open files. (A file is a column, and a rank is a row.) 8. Look to develop an attack after you have fully developed your pieces. White’s side of the board encompasses a1 through h4; black’s side of the board encompasses a8 through h5. 9. When possible, capture toward the center of the board. Aim to control d4, d5, e4 and e5. 10. Avoid having two or more pawns in the same column (which is very common if you capture a piece with a pawn) unless doing so gives you the upper hand, but if you have several ways to do it, choose one that won't leave one pawn in front of another. 11. Capture with the e-pawn at every opportunity. 12. Often, pawn chains are formed, where pawns protect one another, forming diagonals. That can make it difficult for you to "penetrate" your opponent's territory. The trick, usually, is to find an unprotected pawn, at the back of the chain - capturing it (probably with a knight) may be a good idea.

Use these rules as posted by rogubravo about 5 years ago. Most of the rules pertain to openings. Most of which were developed by Rodrigo rogubravo: GOLDEN RULE: Begin the game by moving the pawn in front of your king (preferable) or queen two or a least one space forward. By move 3, at least one of your knights should be out. Never, ever, move your f-pawn (with black or white) if there are still Queens on the board. The only exception to this rule is once you have castled long (queenside). No matter what, avoid exchanging your fianchettoed bishop. If forced to do so, exchange it for your opponent’s bishop of the same color. Never, ever exchange it is your opponent will get to keep HIS own bishop of that color. Fianchetto: The development in chess of a bishop from its original position to the second square of the adjacent knight’s file. GOLDEN RULE: A piece is safe only as long as it is defended by the same number of pieces that are attacking it. If your opponent attacks one of your pieces, count the number of your pieces that defend it immediately to make sure that it is safe. GOLDEN RULE: When you are down in material, avoid by any means possible any further piece exchanges. Especially, hold on to your queen like your life depended on it. GOLDEN RULE: Complete your development as fast as you can. If you reach move 15 and you have not completed development, you have broken this rule. Development includes: castling on either the kingside or queenside; moving all minor pieces (knights and bishops) from the first rank; connecting the rooks by moving the queen from the first rank. GOLDEN RULE: Castle as soon as you can; if you have reached move 8 and have not castled, you have broken this rule. GOLDEN RULE: Try to always keep your rooks connected. It is the connection between the rooks that makes them powerful. GOLDEN RULE: Before you make your own move, ALWAYS ask yourself what your opponent is up to with the last move he/she just made. GOLDEN RULE: Rooks belong in open files. An open file is a file (a vertical column) that has no pawns in it. Hence a rook is free to move up and down this file for attacking or defensive functions. This rule also applies to semi-open files. A semi-open file is a file where there are no pawns of your, but your opponent still has a pawn in it. Of course, ideally you want your rook to be attacking this enemy pawn! It's very important to understand that rooks are very powerful pieces, but quite literally, they are useless unless they have open files to move in. So, as soon as an open or semi-open file is created, your goal should be to have your rooks take over it. Now that my rook is in the semi-open g-file, it will play an important role in the ongoing attack against your king. GOLDEN RULE: When your king is under direct attack, exchange as many pieces as possible. Go that extra mile calculating if there is some way to exchange your opponent’s queen. The idea behind it is that even the queen by itself cannot deliver checkmate. Suppose your opponent is attacking your king with his queen and one or two other pieces. If you trade the attacking pieces, there will be no checkmate possible. GOLDEN RULE: When attacking your opponent's king directly, avoid exchanging pieces; you will need them for your attack to be successful. It's important to keep in mind that sometimes a successful attack does not necessarily result in checkmate; for instance, an attack is just as successful if you put enough pressure on your opponent's position that you win some material (a pawn or a piece). Knights should always be developed toward the center (i.e. not to squares like a3 or h3) in accordance to an old saying in chess which states that "A knight on the rim is dim". My addition to the Golden Rules: Golden Rule: Near the beginning of development AFTER moving either the pawn in front of your king 2 spaces (preferably) or the pawn in front of your queen 2 spaces (first move in game for both colors), move your a pawn and your h pawn forward one space BEFORE moving your knights from their first rank.

Please use this thread to introduce yourself as a chess player / buff. Describe your game play, strategies, and your desires to improve via this club.