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tell me how you started to play chess.

I've been playing in a tournament alone, i need some help from you all.  We're in 7th, but i need some help. I'm 6th overall, but there's only so much i one can do.

Who do u support 

Can you find mate!

What is the fastest mate possible from the starting position

Simple mate in 5

Can you solve this absolutely mind boggling position? This is the most insane puzzle I've ever seen! Comment down below what you think!

Roblox🆚Minecraft Roblox🆚Minecraft!!! What do you play or like better?!!! Please Comment down below!!! Thank You!!!

Hikaru Nakumura 🆚 Magnus Carlsen who do you like better?!!! Please Comment Down Below!!! Thank You!!!

what would you do to make this club better?

It's really difficult to find mate

what is your guys's favorite opening/response to an opening?

List out the different types of checkmates

What is the rarest checkmate in chess?

Name me simply 2 fast opening trap checkmates with the move count(full moves) it need to execute them, it need to be one with black, and one with white!

What is your definition of Strategic thinking

this highkey kinda pointless :/ topics: 1. how games are actually won at sub-1000 2. stop blundering 3. the time math (use your clock) 4. tempo, development + castling 5. pawn structure basics 6. midgame strategy 7. endgame _____________ 1. how games are actually won at sub-1000real talk — at sub-1000 you dont win games by playing brilliant moves or knowing some fancy opening theory. you win bc your opponent blunders more than you do. thats genuinely all there is to it. chess engines would destroy every 800 elo player not bc they outplay them strategically, its just bc they never accidentally drop pieces for free. so the whole goal at this level is pretty simple: blunder less than the other guy. do that consistently and the rating climbs. you dont need the sicilian, you dont need to know any queen sacrifices, just stop giving away your rook for nothing. key takeaway "dont hang pieces" wins you like half your games at this level. sounds too simple but its just true _____________ 2. stop blunderinga blunder is when you make a move that loses material or completely tanks your position for no reason. you're doing it every game, your opponent is too. here's how to cut it down: the "LPDO" rule — loose pieces drop off before every move, ask yourself which of your pieces are undefended right now. if a piece isnt protected by another piece, its a target. sort that out first. the one move rule before you move, ask: if i play this, what can my opponent do next? just one move ahead. seriously, most blunders disappear just from doing this one thing count attackers vs defenders when you move a piece to a square, count how many enemy pieces attack that square vs how many of yours defend it. if attackers beat defenders, dont go there. basic stuff but ppl skip it constantly review your games after chess.com has a free game review feature. use it every single game. look at the red mistakes and understand why you made them. this is how you actually get better — not just grinding games mindlessly and hoping it sticks _____________ 3. the time math (use your clock)this is the part most ppl dont think about. in rapid (10 min games) you have 600 seconds. avg rapid game is around 40–55 moves per side, so call it ~50 moves. the math isnt complicated 600 seconds ÷ 50 moves = ~12 seconds per move on average. some moves take 2 sec, critical positions take 30+ if you're blitzing every move in 1–2 seconds you're throwing away the only advantage you have over your position — time to actually think. the clock is there for a reason, man. use it. on complex positions or before a big decision, take 20–30 seconds. easy recaptures can be quick. just dont auto-move without at least a glance at what's going on. quick checklist before every move: ✓ is my opponent threatening anything? (captures, checks, forks)✓ are any of my pieces hanging right now?✓ does this move deal with their threat or create a new one?✓ after i move, what can they do? _____________ 4. tempo, development + castlingtempo = moves. losing tempo means wasting moves on nothing while your opponent gets their pieces out. every move in the opening should develop a piece, fight for the center, or get you castled. if you're moving the same piece twice in the opening, you're probably losing tempo. development means getting your pieces off the back rank and into the game. knights before bishops generally. get both knights out, then bishops, then castle. dont bring the queen out early either — your opponent will just chase it around and gain free tempo off you. Good example ^^^^^ BAD EXAMPLE^^^^^^ (opponent has developed knight and bishop to access more squares and is castling while your queen is running) DO THIS in the opening ✓ control center (e4, d4, e5, d5) ✓ develop knights + bishops ✓ castle early (ideally before move 10) ✓ connect your rooks after castling dont do this ✗ move the same piece twice ✗ bring queen out on move 2 ✗ push random pawns instead of developing ✗ forget to castle and get punished for it jus use openings your familiar with (king’s pawn openings, reti, .) castling is something ppl at this level just skip and it costs them. your king sitting in the center is a liability — once the center opens up it can get attacked from everywhere. castle kingside (0-0) is usually the move, its safer and easier to reach. just do it early and stop leaving your king in the middle of the board. _____________ 5. pawn structure basicspawns are not just blockers, they shape the whole game. here's what you need to know: doubled pawns = bad two pawns on the same file cant protect each other and just get in each other's way. try not to create them for yourself, and try to force them onto your opponent through trades isolated pawns = target a pawn with no friendly pawns on neighboring files cant be defended by other pawns. your opponent will attack it the whole game. avoid creating them and go after your opponent's when they do passed pawns = powerful a pawn with no enemy pawns blocking it on its file or neighboring files can just run and promote. in the endgame these things are dangerous. push them when you have them dont randomly push pawns early every pawn move creates a permanent weakness bc pawns cant go backwards. pushing in the center is usually fine, pushing pawns in front of your own king is generally how you get mated _____________ 6. midgame strategyyou're out of the opening, pieces are developed, now what. the midgame is where most games actually get decided. here's the main thing to understand at this level: if you're up on material — trade pieces say you're up a rook (5 pts) or knight (3 pts) for nothing. if you trade queens (9 for 9), you're still up a rook. simplify the position, get rid of pieces until its just you and your extra material vs their pawns. this is called "simplifying to the endgame" and its how higher rated players close out games too — its not just a beginner concept dont trade just to trade tho — only do it when: — you're up on material and want to simplify— you're swapping a bad piece for a good one (eg your passive bishop for their active knight)— the trade gets you into a won endgame— you're defending and the trade removes a dangerous attacker also just generally: put your pieces on good squares. rooks belong on open files. knights are best in the center, not on the edge of the board. bishops want open diagonals. queens want to be active but safe. ppl just leave their pieces parked on bad squares doing nothing and wonder why they cant make progress _____________ 7. endgamemost ppl at sub-1000 dont even think about endgames bc they assume the game gets decided before that. but a ton of games reach the endgame and the winning side just messes it up and draws or loses. here are the basics: activate your king in the endgame the king is actually a strong piece. bring it to the center and use it to fight for pawns. the #1 endgame mistake at this level is leaving your king in the corner while your opponent just walks theirs straight into your position push passed pawns got a passed pawn? escort it down the board with your king. a passed pawn hitting the 7th rank is usually game over for your opponent bc stopping promotion costs them too much rook + king vs king = forced checkmate this is the most common endgame at low elo and ppl still draw it bc they dont know the technique. its called "lawnmower checkmate" or the "box method" — use your rook to push the enemy king to the edge, then walk your king up. look it up on youtube, its a short vid and worth your time king + pawn vs king — know the basics the "opposition" concept — if your king directly faces their king with one square between them, whoever has to move loses ground. also the "rule of the square" tells you if your king can catch a pawn before it promotes. takes maybe 10 min to learn and saves games tl;dr — the actual roadmap to 1000 1. stop hanging pieces (check LPDO every move) 2. use your time — 12 sec avg per move in rapid, actually use it 3. develop pieces fast and castle early 4. keep pawn structure clean, avoid isolated + doubled pawns 5. when you're up on material, trade down to an endgame 6. learn basic endgames (rook+king vs king, king+pawn endings) 7. review your games after every session and find where you went wrong do all this and you will hit 1000. gl hf (might delete this later idk)

Can you find the brilliant move wich leads into forced mate in 15 moves White to move