Get a room.
Many good ideas; I worked as a machinist and I can see that most of the ideas I`ve read are very good. Best of all, if one can purchase them, is simply to buy triple weighted pieces.
Interesting. There is another topic on this forum that drifts into a similar discussion, where one contribution might be helpful here as well. Although the post I’m referring to fails to provide an anal retentive elaboration on the matter, it points out that there seems to be an ideal relationship between the physical and functional properties of the chess piece. The post also suggests that the shape determines the weight if one is to obtain «optimal playability». Lastly it proposes a method of measurement, which might come in handy here:
Note: The picture conatins a little easter egg for the observant reader (hint: check the small print on the box).
Nice post :)
Just to be rid of this discussion, I checked one of my pieces and I could see the start of the screw thread at the base of the weight. Thus, it has a screw thread and it has no tool marks.
Do you have a picture?
I've just smashed my ebony and boxwood 6" set with a club hammer on the doorstep with the neighbours looking on, and you're right - the lead does not extend in a column in these fine old sets in the manner I suggested for plastic or 3D printed pieces.
Hang-on there's a police officer at the door....
No pieces from any company, wood or plastic, new or old, have weights extending into the column, because it defeats the purpose of stability (i.e., it raises the center of gravity, which would make them easier to tip over). However, I'm more than happy to be proven wrong on this matter; just give me an example of a commercially manufactured chess piece with weighting material extending into the column.
The classic Drueke Player's Choice pieces are the archetype for weighted plastic pieces (they are also where the still-used terms "double-weighted" and "triple-weighted" came from), and those didn't have weights extending into the column either (again, correct me if I'm wrong).
That is a great idea, but I think most people don't have the tool to do that. I wonder about a straight shaft with glue in the bottom.
Don't pour molten lead on wet glue, nor on anything else that is wet. You'll get a very violent reaction.
All you need to do is enlarge the bottom of the hole a bit. It doesn't have to be perfect, just a little larger than the rest of the hole. A Dremel tool with a small cutting disc would be ideal. Also, you can put a groove or grooves in the wall of the hole anywhere; it doesn't necessarily have to be at the bottom of the hole.
Another tool you could use is a bent pick, like so:
Heat the end of it with a propane torch, and burn a groove or grooves into the wall of the hole. Once the groove line is sufficiently burnt, you can scrape the charred wood away, leaving a groove. Repeat until the groove is deep enough for a good mechanical lock on the lead (the groove doesn't need to be very deep; 1/16" deep would do the trick).
I was actually speaking of using the glue on the lead after the metal is solid. It would then hold the felt on the piece.
I've returned to this forum with, what I believe to be, the real reason for the threaded recess in the bottom of the pieces several of us have been 'discussing'.
I'll just get a few photo's to support my evidence - and perhaps a lawyer or two!
Well I'm sorry - the internet in NZ is so bad I'm going to have to pass this time.
3 attemps have been made to upload a concise description of a particular technique used by wood turners that would leave a threaded recess - including photo's. Unfortunately Vodafone and the capitalist banana republic that is NZ have conspired to rob me of connectivity at least 5 times a day!
Google 'Screw Chuck' or 'Screw Faceplate' and you will see a possible reason why there are threads in the recesses of so many chess pieces.
You don't need to make a threaded hole as long as you can gouge the sides of the hole, whether it be with something like a chip carving knife or a chisel.
I agree, but if the turner has used a screw chuck or faceplate during manufacture then there will be a thread left behind after the finished piece has been unscrewed/removed.
It's a win win! the wood is held securely during manufacture and the resulting recess has a surface well suited to holding molten lead once it has solidified.