HOS recommends (second question and last question in the FAQ):
http://www.houseofstaunton.com/faq?src=footer
Does Anyone Wax Their Chess Pieces?
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Sep 1, 2014
0
#3
Thanks for that link. I bought a set a couple months ago (HOS) and my finials fell out of the kings when I unwrapped the set. I called and they told me to glue them in which goes against what they recommend. I wish I would have saw this link when I bought my set. I was also told by others the proper way to ship the kings are without the finials on and packed in a seperate baggy. Makes you wonder sometimes.
I just wipe them down with a clean white cotton cloth. I am not going to take a chance on wreaking my sets.
kaynight wrote:
I usually wash my set in the sink..Shame it was plugged into the mains at the time.
The set or the sink?
I wipe them down with a clean white cotton sock. No wax, no oil, nothing. In the past I used furniture polish (and still use it on chess boards), but I found that the polish gets on your hands when you try to play afterwards.
I only have two recommendations for ya...
The first is the only wax that I found worthy of using on any chess pieces of value as well as other valuable collectable items. I have nothing but praise for it and have had good fortune in it's use...Link Here:
http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_renaissance_wax.htm
The second is for humidity control which in dry climates or where humidity is not stable works like a charm...
http://www.bovedainc.com/store/tobacco/boveda-medium-8-gram/
These items are frequently used by collectors of various expensive hi end collectable items such as pool cues, chess pieces, guitars, guns, antiques etc and have never heard a complaint personally. Here's a link to one of my mint modern safe queens I'm saving for my grandson someday which gets the treatment once per year...
Sep 13, 2014
0
#8
Thanks Robb, The Boveda product I am already using for one set and will use it for any future sets I get that justify it. I use the .48 or .49 it is since the recommeded was I believe between 45 and 55%. In case anyone doesn't know about the Boveda product the "bag" I use adds & subtracts humidity as needed.
The_Ghostess_Lola wrote:
Is there hair growing on them ?
I beg your pardon, to be sure, and please knock before entering.
Sep 13, 2014
0
#12
Yes, plastic sets get dirty too. I have an old Dreuke set that has survived 40+ years. Easy to clean without worrying. Start with an old toothbrush dipped in warm water and scrub the dirt out of the nooks & crannies. Then get some type of vinyl protection wipe(Armor All,etc.) and wipe down each piece. Let set to dry and they are good to go!
Sep 13, 2014
0
#13
....don't your mean the rooks and pawnnies ?
(....sorry, I'll stop now)
Yes all the time. With liquid furniture polish. I do the board as well. Buffs out to a high shine.
Sep 13, 2014
0
#15
I bought an old wooden set a few years ago. They were in the original box and had some mould on the surfaces. I gave them a wipe (white pieces first) with a clean cotton rag dipped in methylated spirit - this removed the mould and sterilised the surface. When I saw that the original finish was still intact I gave the white pieces a polish with Briwax furniture polish, (good stuff) and, as an experiment - dont laugh, I used my shoe brush on the black pieces. I didn't add any shoe polish, but the residue already in the brush really brought them up to a high gloss and got into all the hard to clean places. All I've ever done since then is dust them. They look like new - only old, if you know what I mean!
Sep 13, 2014
0
#16
LongIslandMark wrote:
The spray furniture polish should be banned - it's not really good for anything. It's a petroleum product that does almost nothing to protect the wood, attracts dust, and then evaporates (some of them do have a nice lemon scent).
The renaissance wax, or other quality wax, is well thought of. The coat of wax slows moisture exchange with the environment, which if it happens quickly can lead to splitting.
No need to go crazy with it or reapply too often - a buff with a soft cloth will bring out the sheen.
Of course I assume we are talking about wood pieces.
Yes talking about wooden pieces For the wooden boards I guess you can also use wax but what about this...... I used Old English lemon oil which I would think is a pertroleum product (it is a light mineral oil) and it cleaned and made by 30 years old Druele 2 1/4" board look fantastic. of course I wiped it dry but the board looks great. I would not use it on the pieces.
From the Old English site:
OLD ENGLISH® Oil conditions and nourishes wood to bring out wood's natural beauty. The furniture oil contains a light mineral oil that goes beyond cleaning to revitalize your wood. OLD ENGLISH® Oil even helps protect against water spills and gives your wood furniture a rich natural glow. It is specially formulated to work on oak, teak, walnut and all natural woods.
Just me, but I wouldn't use any type liquid products on my pieces or boards. I should have added that the Ren-Wax I recommended priorly here works just as well on the boards. I might consider a bit of the old english on a area of a board that might have a blemish and touch up on the specific area only with a q-tip or wooden toothpic, but still would then follow up with the Ren-Wax.
kaynight wrote:
Anybody actually play chess here, or is this for OCD sufferers?
No I've never played the game, to hard, so I like billiards and golf better lol.
well this is a strange forum
Maybe once a year and if so what wax do you use or was recommeded by the chess seller.