Don't store your chess set for 25 years (anyone know how to clean?)

Got back into chess at the tail end of last year.  Had not played a game for twelve years.  Also had not played through games with my full sized Staunton Set for 25 years (I have a pretty good travel set).  Talking on line to a legend and how he would like to have a set such as the one I had in storage, looked it out to follow the last round of Norway chess. 

It had been in a wooden box.  For at least 25 years. 
The board had been propped against an outer cupboard wall.

The board had split (probably because of swings in humidity) but the pieces were in a disgusting state, not just dust of which there was plenty, but some sort of gunk, sticky gunk.  The black pieces have also changed colour.  Gave them a wipe as best I could and set 'em up. 

Still a lovely set... this is the set I used to use to play through games from books.  Lovely on the hand and the eye, triple weighted, not a Jacques Set but it was about a week's wages back when I bought it in the late 80s... 

I do not know much about wood, anyone know or could recommend how to clean it as it is very VERY sticky still. 


   

How to clean and revive an old chess set - Part 1

How to clean and revive an old chess set - Part 2

https://www.officialstaunton.com/pages/how-to-look-after-your-heirloom-chess-sets#:~:text=If%20a%20piece%20gets%20sticky,them%20with%20a%20dry%20cloth.

I’ve had success with an ever-so-slightly-diluted microfiber rag (80-90% water, 10%-20 dish soap) on one of the corners (ring it out so it’s barely damp). A little finessing and slight elbow grease, then dry with a separate microfiber or using one of the dry corners of the original rag.

I used this method on a vintage board to get all the excessive grime and gunk from years of play off. It turned out fantastic! I also achieved amazing results on a Jaque Mate No.11 set that had a lot of black finishing rings and contact marks on the white pieces. Special care and planning should be taken into account regarding each finish and best method for such. As with any method, just don’t overdo, start with a small test surface, and adjust from there! I typically carry and use microfibers to wipe my pieces periodically, and this seems to work well against buildup.

I have no idea how to clean a chess set. So I asked the AI for help....

Cleaning a wooden chess set that's been stored for 25 years requires a gentle, patient, and methodical approach to avoid damaging the wood, finish, or felt. The main goals are to remove dust, grime, and potentially rehydrate the wood.

Crucial First Rule: TEST FIRST!
Always test any cleaning solution or method on an inconspicuous area of a piece (like the very bottom of a pawn's base, near the felt) before applying it to the entire set.

What You'll Need:

Soft brushes: A clean, dry paintbrush (1-inch to 2-inch wide), a soft makeup brush, or even a soft-bristled toothbrush for crevices.
Microfiber cloths: Several clean, soft ones.
Mild soap: A very mild dish soap (like Dawn) or Murphy's Oil Soap.
Distilled water: Or filtered water, to avoid mineral deposits.
Cotton swabs/Q-tips.
Rubbing alcohol (optional, for stubborn spots): Use with extreme caution.
White vinegar (optional, for mold/mildew): Diluted.
Furniture polish/wax (optional, for after cleaning): A good quality wax-based polish or a wood conditioning oil (like mineral oil for unsealed wood). Avoid silicone-based polishes.
Lint roller or masking tape: For felt bases.
Soft vacuum attachment (optional): For the felt or board.
Step-by-Step Cleaning Process:

Part 1: Initial Dry Cleaning (Pieces and Board)

Preparation:

Lay out a clean towel or soft cloth on your work surface.
Handle each piece gently by its base to avoid stressing delicate parts (like finials or knight's ears).
Carefully inspect each piece and the board for any loose parts, cracks, or damage.
Dusting with a Soft Brush:

Use a clean, dry paintbrush or soft makeup brush to gently dust off the surface of each chess piece and the board. Work from top to bottom, paying attention to crevices and carved details (especially on knights).
For the board, brush along the grain of the wood.
Do not use compressed air on felt bases, as it can dislodge them.
Vacuuming/Lint Rolling Felt Bases:

For the felt bottoms of the pieces, use a lint roller or a piece of masking tape (sticky side down) to dab and lift off any dust, lint, or hair.
If you have a vacuum cleaner with a very soft brush attachment and low suction, you can very carefully vacuum the felt, but be extremely gentle. Do not get the felt wet.
Part 2: Gentle Wet Cleaning (Pieces and Board)

Important: For this step, less water is always more. You want a damp cloth, not a wet one.

Prepare Cleaning Solution:

Mix a few drops (start with 2-3 drops) of mild dish soap or Murphy's Oil Soap with about a cup of distilled or filtered water. The solution should be barely soapy.
Cleaning the Pieces:

Dip a microfiber cloth into the solution, then wring it out thoroughly until it's just barely damp. You should not see any visible water droplets.
Gently wipe down each chess piece, working section by section. Avoid the felt bases entirely.
For intricate areas, you can lightly dampen a cotton swab with the solution and carefully clean the crevices.
Immediately follow up with a separate, clean, dry microfiber cloth to wipe off any moisture. You want to ensure the wood dries almost instantly.
Place cleaned pieces aside on a dry towel to air dry completely for at least an hour before proceeding.
Cleaning the Board:

Use the same damp microfiber cloth (wring it out thoroughly) to gently wipe down the board, working in small sections and following the wood grain.
Immediately follow with a clean, dry microfiber cloth to dry the surface.
Pay attention to the squares – white squares might show dirt more, but be equally gentle on both.
Part 3: Addressing Stubborn Issues (Use with Caution!)

Stubborn Grime/Finger Oils:

If there are still stubborn spots after the gentle soap solution, try a very small amount of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. TEST THIS FIRST in an inconspicuous area, as alcohol can strip some finishes. Dab the spot, then immediately wipe with a damp (water only) cloth, then dry.
Alternatively, specialized wood cleaners like Formby's Furniture Cleaner or Old English Lemon Oil can sometimes lift old grime, but again, test thoroughly on an unseen spot.
Mold/Mildew (if present):

Wear gloves and ensure good ventilation.
Mix equal parts white vinegar and water.
Lightly dampen a cotton swab or a corner of a microfiber cloth with the solution (again, barely damp).
Gently wipe the moldy areas. The vinegar helps kill mold spores.
Immediately wipe with a clean, water-damp cloth to remove vinegar residue, then thoroughly dry with a dry cloth.
Do not get the felt wet if mold is on the base. If felt is moldy, it might need to be replaced by a professional or carefully peeled off and replaced with new felt.
Part 4: Drying and Conditioning (After Cleaning)

Thorough Drying:

Once all pieces and the board are cleaned, allow them to air dry completely for several hours, or even overnight, in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight or heat. Ensure no moisture remains.
Conditioning/Polishing:

This step helps rehydrate the wood and restore its luster after cleaning.
For unsealed or very dry wood: A small amount of mineral oil (food-grade) or tung oil (follow product instructions carefully) can be applied with a clean cloth. Let it soak for 15-20 minutes, then buff off any excess completely with a fresh, dry cloth until no residue remains.
For finished/sealed wood: Use a high-quality furniture polish or wax (like beeswax polish or a paste wax designed for wood). Apply sparingly with a clean cloth, let it haze slightly, then buff to a gentle sheen. Avoid silicone-based polishes as they can build up and attract dust over time.
Do not apply oil or polish to the felt bases.
Part 5: Cleaning the Storage Box (if applicable)

Clean the inside and outside of the storage box using the same dry and damp cleaning methods as the chess set.
Ensure the box is completely dry before returning the cleaned chess set to it, to prevent new mold or mildew growth.
Important Reminders:

Patience is Key: Don't rush the process.
Less is More: Always start with the least aggressive cleaning method and the smallest amount of solution.
No Soaking: Never submerge wooden chess pieces or the board in water.
Avoid Abrasives: Do not use abrasive cleaners, scourers, or steel wool.
Check for Loose Parts: If any weights inside the pieces feel loose or rattle excessively, you might need professional help to re-secure them.
By following these steps carefully, you should be able to safely and effectively clean your cherished wooden chess set and restore its beauty.

Thanks very much for these links. The video is very interesting indeed.
And has given me a clear way of cleaning up my set.
Thanks again!

I watched those videos and thought they'd be helpful in your situation (especially "Part 1"). I'm glad you found them useful. Good luck.