Ebonized Pieces Suck...

Heh heh.

Does Philip K. Dick poop in the woods?

Only when he must...?

Just a bit of clarity to my post... I personally think that staining woods is fine including genuine ebony... ie... Staining genuine ebony blacker or rosewoods redish or walnut brown for example makes more sense to me. The problem with coloring or staining boxwood with darker colors is that the edges of the pieces quickly and eventually the pieces themselves as they get played over time will start to show the boxwood white coming through which to me is cheap looking. Staining boxwood with more natural colors such as antiquing is fine... Maybe I upset some with the truth, but it is what it is...

Edit added... To answer some others that posted... Yes ebony has been over harvested but chess pieces are only a very tiny percentage of ebony use compared to other products and hobbies that used genuine ebony over the many years... In addition, none of my particular ebony black pieces are combo woods and are completly ebony top to bottom, and finally I'll ignore the comment on the troll post with no comment cause it's just not my style... ;)

I actually see your point even though I don't agree fully, ebony is a fine material to carve chess pieces from, and it's dufficult to beat it's inherent blackness by staining/painting, but to say ebonized pieces suck is too much. To quote some website (HoS?): "when done properly ebonized pieces come very close to the real thing" or some something... and I'll rather have an ebonized piece with some white that shows through than a cracked expensive ebony piece. And that being aside from the fact that we shouldn't harvest ebony at all. Sorry I made fun of you btw, but being overly categorical is sort of trollish (remember your other thread). That being said my next set will be a mid-ranged shesham/boxwood one. :p

No problem Maz... I can dish it out but can take it too... ;) Anyway, I do have to pass this along... I only have one ebony set that ever had cracks. It's actually my favorite playing set that was done for me when Frank had HOS... The ebony is absolutely superb midnight black as it is gaboon. I just think genuine aged ebony has that feel and look that can't be duplicated or beat when it comes to black pieces. A few hairline base cracks for me adds to it's older charm. By the way, I've seen plenty of boxwood cracked pieces over time as well, so it's not just ebony as some will attest. Now, for my other collector sets such as my Fischer Spassky 40th the set has remained dead mint perfect including the ebony. I've learned over the years with some simple maintenence tips, proper humidity and temp control, that genuine aged ebony over the years can and will remain crack free. Anyone who wishes to know some great methods that really have worked and are tour proven with ebony feel free to send me a message... I do wish however I knew them back when I originally purchased Frank's first limited edition set close to 20 years ago...

Isn't ebony too heavy ? You know, for good balance ?

(personally, ID really care 'cuz I play online only....but, just curious....) 

Ebony pieces are only slightly heavier than their boxwood counter parts..not really a big deal.

Making it easy for genuine ebony care as to my post just above, here's two tips that really work... Again as always I have NO affiliations...

When you receive your genuine ebony set put on a light coat of this wax only. It's the best there is short of none, but is expensive... this pic is of Frank's HOS first ever collector set. Notice the white rook is not done yet... wish I knew of this stuff when I first bought this set... Also use these humidity packs (see link below) in your storage box when storing your chess pieces...

http://www.bovedainc.com/store/tobacco/

I did use the R-Wax immediatly after purchasing my Fischer Spassky 40th when first purchased several years ago from HOS, and I use the humidity control packs per the link I provided. I keep them stored in the storage box and special individual pouches they came with... The ebony remains crack free and dead mint perfect...

Again, I have no problem with stained pieces, just the boxwood in black... Heck, I have stained pieces as well such as my HOS bones (linked here below) but yes, they were custom which I had specially done and yes they did cost some bucks. My point has always been though to save a bit extra to get the genuine article, cause down the road you'll be happy ya did...

http://www.chess.com/forum/view/chess-equipment/staunton-bones-the-ivory-alternative

Robb

Please set up a separate thread on how one should care for these chess pieces and boards. Others can chime in as well. Would be great help for rest of us.

Besides genuine ebony, has anyone tried getting chess pieces in other exotic woods ?

Brazilian Rosewood is now banned but some senior collectors must have used it.

Ok sherrif... When ever you set up a separate thread for Rosewood and other woods... This thread is clearly ebony and ebonized related to black pieces... So let's get this straight... It's my thread...

For those who don't like ebonized chess pieces, and choose not to pay the price for real ebony, there's always sheesham and rosewood, which are affordable and come in a wide variety of hues from golden to dark brown.

Unless Robb informs us that rosewood also sucks, in which case I guess we won't be able to buy any rosewood pieces either.

Ha ha... Rosewood is a gorgeous wood and very suitable and a great choice... I'll say it one more freaking time... It's the black stain on boxwood that is commonly refered to as ebonized that I object too... I stand by my comment... The stain wears off easily as many have already experienced... Nuff said...

I think it depends upon the quality of the ebonizing process. Some ebonized sets seem to wear much better than others. Some members have posted about their decades old ebonized sets with narry a fade, others seem to experience problems right from the get-go. I had to do some touch ups on my brand new HoS ebonized Dubrovnik set. But because I rotate my playing amongst a dozen or so sets, the ebonized sets are seeing "light duty." Also, my wide-tip Sharpie Magnum marker seems to do a nice job touching up the pieces.

Lou wrote:

I think it depends upon the quality of the ebonizing process. Some ebonized sets seem to wear much better than others. Some members have posted about their decades old ebonized sets with narry a fade, others seem to experience problems right from the get-go. I had to do some touch ups on my brand new HoS ebonized Dubrovnik set. But because I rotate my playing amongst a dozen or so sets, the ebonized sets are seeing"

I have two sets with ebonized pieces, HoS Player's series and another a littlebit cheaper from German Ulbrich. While there are quite some imperfections with the boxwood showing through on my cheaper set the HoS one looks really good, and doesn't show any wear as of yet (had it for a year).

Actually as I don't care to own pieces from rare exotic woods I have toyed with the idea of some day placing a custom order for a nicer set that normally doesn't come ebonized and have them stain it black.

I love old worn chess pieces. I much prefer stuff that gets a patina, but still retains its full functionality. Old stuff where corners are worn smooth from touch or where lacquer has been worn through, tell a story that a set -still looking pristine after 30 years- never will.

A dark walnut stain like on the NOJ Dubrovnik would look nice IMO for the black pieces. Also, sheesham for the black pieces looks good & won't wear off.

What I don't understand is why people claim they can't afford ebony.

It is not like it cost 10x more than stained.

Chessbazar have some amazing ebony sets that are even cheaper than some stained sets by other vendors. I just run a search on their website and for $120 found this handsome set:

http://www.chessbazaar.com/the-empire-series-wooden-chess-pieces-in-ebony-box-wood-chess-pieces-4-0-king.html

There you go, 4' king weigthed, free shipping.. looks awesome, real ebony... what else you want?

Now if we compare it with the HOS version of it:

http://www.houseofstaunton.com/chess-pieces/wooden-chess-pieces/the-empire-series-luxury-chess-pieces-4-4-king.html

We find it for $750, can be a lil bit less if you get a promotion code or other deal they may have.

The price tag is not given by the kind of wood, both sets have the same wood.

To understand the price different I think all it takes is to look at the pictures.

This is my playing set:

http://www.thechessstore.com/product/PSBB375/Parker-Staunton-Chess-Set-in-Burnt-Boxwood-Boxwood-3-75-King

It cost more than many of ebony sets.

When I got it I was clear I didn't wanted spray painting or other lame stuff, I found it interesting they burnt it up, so they archive the dark color by other means. Looking close to it I can actually see the bornt details on it, it is awesome.

I was aware that for that money I can get real ebony if I wanted.

From where it comes that stuff that ebony is so expensive that only 3 people on the world can afford it?

Today I think a litle bit diferent than the days when I got my burnt set, Today I don't look bad some stained set, I apreciate the value of some of them. But I still think, also, it is kinda lame, and will pick other options over spray painted sets and "ebonized" sets when other options are avalible.

Well said Dave... :)