I’ve plenty of variations on thickness. What seems to be the consensus on the thickness of the board, is there a standard like there is with then actual square sizes?
Purely from a wood perspective.... the thinner you go the more likely you'll have warp. The thicker you go, the stronger your arms will become.
Good answer, love it!
@Wits-end Most of the solid wood borderless boards I've seen are 0.75" thick. MTM Wood boards are over 1" thick including his borderless.
@Malabrigo In regards to the idea about adding a piece of metal inside of the board to allow for magnetic feet, it sounds like an awesome idea. My only concern would be cracking like we see with chess pieces where the wood expands and contracts around a solid object. Wouldn't this be an issue when adding a piece of metal into a board?
You would have to make sure you are allowing for expansion and contraction of the board, otherwise you would get in trouble. I imagine a piece of metal wrapped in something that could expand and contract with the wood. Again, fun experimentation that could lead to something really unique.
Just picked up some Maple, Purple Heart, and Walnut. I’m old and slow, but here goes! This will be only my second chess board I’ve made. I’ve taken inventory of all my digits and good to go. Time to make some wood glitter.
@Wits-end Most of the solid wood borderless boards I've seen are 0.75" thick. MTM Wood boards are over 1" thick including his borderless.
@Malabrigo In regards to the idea about adding a piece of metal inside of the board to allow for magnetic feet, it sounds like an awesome idea. My only concern would be cracking like we see with chess pieces where the wood expands and contracts around a solid object. Wouldn't this be an issue when adding a piece of metal into a board?
You would have to make sure you are allowing for expansion and contraction of the board, otherwise you would get in trouble. I imagine a piece of metal wrapped in something that could expand and contract with the wood. Again, fun experimentation that could lead to something really unique.
Thanks! It would be interesting to see the result.
Edit: how about rubber feet with suction cup attached? It would stick to the board without damaging them.
While that would work, I'd say you're probably better off with standalone feet at that point. The suction cups will wear out over time. Better off with a few little braces that you set on the table, then just throw the board on it.
Just picked up some Maple, Purple Heart, and Walnut. I’m old and slow, but here goes! This will be only my second chess board I’ve made. I’ve taken inventory of all my digits and good to go. Time to make some wood glitter.
Nice! Are you going bordered or borderless???
Just picked up some Maple, Purple Heart, and Walnut. I’m old and slow, but here goes! This will be only my second chess board I’ve made. I’ve taken inventory of all my digits and good to go. Time to make some wood glitter.
Nice! Are you going bordered or borderless???
Ha! You would think I have a plan right? Just kidding. Believe I’ll try borderless. That can change as with other creations, sometimes you go with the flow of inspiration. How hard, no pun intended, is the Purple Heart on jointer and planer blades?
Ha! You would think I have a plan right? Just kidding. Believe I’ll try borderless. That can change as with other creations, sometimes you go with the flow of inspiration. How hard, no pun intended, is the Purple Heart on jointer and planer blades?
Purpleheart is definitely not your friend. It's hard on everything, burns easily, and tears out easily. Make sure everything is sharp and that you take light passes! Don't neglect the grain direction when running it through your machines.
Ha! You would think I have a plan right? Just kidding. Believe I’ll try borderless. That can change as with other creations, sometimes you go with the flow of inspiration. How hard, no pun intended, is the Purple Heart on jointer and planer blades?
Purpleheart is definitely not your friend. It's hard on everything, burns easily, and tears out easily. Make sure everything is sharp and that you take light passes! Don't neglect the grain direction when running it through your machines.
Appreciate your advice!
@mr Malabrigo I have a veneer board and it's bit too rough to my liking. Is there a way to make it smoother other then sanding and recoating it? Like can I use a wax then buff it or polyurethane coating or something else?
@mr Malabrigo I have a veneer board and it's bit too rough to my liking. Is there a way to make it smoother other then sanding and recoating it? Like can I use a wax then buff it or polyurethane coating or something else?
Here in the states we have white non scratch scrubbies that you can get from the cleaning aisle at the store. That, along with some paste wax would be a worthy try. If you have access to Osmo finish in the Netherlands you could take your board into a woodshop and ask them if you could apply Osmo over the existing finish. I think it gives my boards a deep, rich, contrasted grain look while also providing a soft/smooth touch.
Just whatever you try, try it on the bottom first if possible. If your scrubby or wax are going to scratch or have a strange color change happen, you want it on the bottom, not the top!
edit: you could also look for 0000 steel wool, which might buff down whatever you have going on there!
Do be careful with the wax if you don't like a shiny board. Too much wax can produce a short term gloss, but it typically wears off after a while.
Thanks mr B for the ideas. We should have many woodworkers here as we used to be building boats nation but I've never seen one lol
On the other hand, dyi projects is more fun, that and gaining knowledge of working with woods.
Thanks mr B for the ideas. We should have many woodworkers here as we used to be building boats nation but I've never seen one lol
On the other hand, dyi projects is more fun, that and gaining knowledge of working with woods.
DIY is definitely a powerful experience and I hope I can help you, or anyone else with their builds!
and... I updated my name and you caught it. I used to know someone who did high end yarn work, and they used a yarn called Malabrigo, which I thought was a cool word in 2009. Still cool today, but I like going by my real name (B or Mr. B or any other nickname is cool too).
Oh I didn't know it was you. Now I know 
Thanks mr B for the ideas. We should have many woodworkers here as we used to be building boats nation but I've never seen one lol
...
And here I thought it was shoes and tulips! Learn something every day... 
Mr B, when you mentioned 0000 steel wool you brought me an idea. I still have this microfiber cloth lying around, originally bought to clean my photographic lenses but somehow I find it bit 'rough' so never used it. I used that cloth to buff the board and it worked! It is slightly less rough now to a degree I find it acceptable now.
Mr B, when you mentioned 0000 steel wool you brought me an idea. I still have this microfiber cloth lying around, originally bought to clean my photographic lenses but somehow I find it bit 'rough' so never used it. I used that cloth to buff the board and it worked! It is slightly less rough now to a degree I find it acceptable now.
Little elbow grease does it every time!
@Wits-end Most of the solid wood borderless boards I've seen are 0.75" thick. MTM Wood boards are over 1" thick including his borderless.
@Malabrigo In regards to the idea about adding a piece of metal inside of the board to allow for magnetic feet, it sounds like an awesome idea. My only concern would be cracking like we see with chess pieces where the wood expands and contracts around a solid object. Wouldn't this be an issue when adding a piece of metal into a board?