Preserving old chess boards and sets

This is what House of Staunton recommends

Your House of Staunton Chessmen should be lightly waxed and buffed either once or twice per year, using only a high quality paste wax with a cotton cloth or cheesecloth. We recommend Liberon's Paste Wax. Please make sure that you carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions on the paste wax carefully, as improper waxing could ruin the finish on your Chessmen. Above all else - use the wax sparingly and allow the wax to dry before buffing. You should NEVER use a liquid polish.

Here's where I found it

http://www.houseofstaunton.com/faq?src=footer

Thanks!   That is a big help. 

Here's what the Regency Company says...........

http://www.regencychess.co.uk/product_aftercare.html

From the bottom of HOS FAQ page. (Missed it earlier)

What kind of oil or wax can be used to maintain the wooden chessmen in top condition?

NEVER use an oil on wooden chessmen. It will darken the finish and can cause the finish to become "gummy."

We recommend wiping the chessmen after each use with cloth from an old T-Shirt. Pieces should only be waxed about once a year or less with a high quality paste wax, such as MinWax or Lebrons (Clear color). The finish must be applied very sparingly, and only applied to the areas which are actually handled, never the detailed areas such as the mane, eyes and mouths of the Knights, for example.

Wax should be removed with a piece of a T-Shirt (This same piece of cloth should be kept to wipe off the chessmen after each use). A pointed tooth pick can be used to remove wax residue from the detailed areas if needed.

You can tell if the wax is ready for removal if it offers some resistance to the motion of the cloth. The wax must be removed between 15 and 30 minutes after applying. Never let the wax sit for more than 30 minutes or you will not be able to remove it without destroying the finish.

Hi, I would not use olive oil for wood, because it does go rancid after some time, and it wouldn't cure (it remains liquid). If you want to go the green option, I feel linseed, tung or walnut oil would be better choices. Better would be a mineral oil, which is a mineral oil (so won't go rancid as it is inert), but it does not cure either (meaning it will weep and you have to occasionally wipe it off when it does).

 Wax finishing is another option (that won't weep -if that is the right word- oil). However, unlike oils, the wax mostly sits on the outer layer of the wood, so it functions more as a sealant that shines, than like an oil which can penetrate into the wood more. If your pieces have already been treated before, as is likely, applying a wax finish may be the best option to look at.

I have a 2.5" Drueke #65 vintage 'Play-a-Way' board that has had bees wax used on it. I LOVE the color  ... 

I now know why oil isn't recommended as it goes rancid and doesn't cure. That said, for a cheaper set I have, I used an oil for chopping boards from IKEA. It's called Skyyd, and I see it very lightly (a few drops on a paper towel for the whole set and board). It's come up well, and do far no signs of weeping.

Hi

We produced this document on how to care for the various types of chess piece and board:

Product Aftercare Guide

Knowing the finish is key, there are some great product out there to treat natural wood.

Renaissance Wax. It's what the British museum uses to preserve a lot of their collection, including wood, paper, and God knows what else. I use it on my boards and pieces, works great! You can get it on Amazon.

Fascinating thing from Regency: shellac is a polish? last time I used it I applied it with a brush and let it dry.  You use less wax on veneer than on solid wood?  Surely you apply it and rub it back in the usual way.  Use Briwax because turpentine is supposedly bad for you and the environment?  Traditionally turpentine is distilled from pine resin and used as a solvent for beeswax.  The Xylene and Naptha in Briwax aren't real good either and don[t come from trees... http://www.briwax-trg.com/Briwax/Wax%20Products/Original%20vs%20Toluene%20Free/original-vs-toluene-free.html 

Hi Greg.

Shellac is actually a solid material. Most commonly disolved in alcohol so it can be applied as a liquid. But can be used in it's solid form:-

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Finish/StickShellac/sticklac1.html

Some chessmen are polished by heating a stick of solid Shellac on a buffing wheel and then polishing the bare wood with it after. Other materials are also used, but shellac is common.

Generally veneer boards will soak up less wax than a solid board. But this is course variable, dependent on the openness of the grain and if the wood is sealed, or just polished.

Our page is a general guide on how you can best care for the pieces and board. We've used these methods to good effect. It doesn't cover every single eventuality.

Thanks for your comments though, it's appreciated. We're always looking for ways we can improve the information on the site so we'll review this page based on some of things you've mentioned.

All the best

Julian (The Regency Chess Co)

Julian,

It must be very awkward getting melted (and rapidly cooling) shellac to flow evenly into the grooves turned into a chess piece without filling them.  Stick shellac is most often used for repair or filling.  

Greg