PSA: Store Your Chessboards Vertically

Sort:
MGT88
After some extensive research, it seems that board warpage is caused, primarily, by uneven exposure to humidity, which is usually caused by storage in a flat/horizontal position for a long period of time (the top side is exposed to humidity while the bottom side is not). The better a board is made, the better it will resist warpage, however, every board is susceptible to warpage, at least to some degree.

Based upon the above, storing boards vertically (both sides exposed to air) should help resist warping, and is probably the best storage position; the craftsman behind the JLP boards recommends vertical storage. I just lean my boards against a wall (with a good amount of space between the back of the board and the wall), which seems to work well. If you prefer horizontal, you could just flip your board over periodically, but this is probably not optimal.

The caveat for all of this is that the humidity your board is exposed to is appropriate/controlled, but that’s another conversation.
mdero83

Thx for the tip MGT!

itpro75

Good information. Does this mean that a board with a thicker layer of varnish on the top than on the bottom will more likely warp than a board with an equal number of coats on each side? 

PS: I recently had a new solid wood board warp but managed to unwarp it by placing weights on it for two weeks,

MGT88
itpro75 wrote:

Good information. Does this mean that a board with a thicker layer of varnish on the top than on the bottom will more likely warp than a board with an equal number of coats on each side? 

PS: I recently had a new solid wood board warp but managed to unwarp it by placing weights on it for two weeks,

Well, because of the scarcity of information around chessboard manufacturing, I looked into the next best thing, which is furniture manufacturing. Wood finishes (stains, varnishes, etc.) slow down the rate at which wood absorbs moisture, so good quality furniture is stained on all sides (even the sides that are not visible in service) to ensure as even moisture absorption (as much as possible). If, for example, a wooden table top is finished on its top side but not on its bottom side, it will definitely be more susceptible to warping than if its bottom side were finished; I think this would be analogous to a chessboard, which is why chessboards are typically finished on all sides, the same way. So yes, uneven varnish application could result in uneven moisture absorption.

 

That is interesting regarding the weights; what did you use/how much weight? Did you leave it on 24/7?

itpro75
MGT88 wrote:
itpro75 wrote:

Good information. Does this mean that a board with a thicker layer of varnish on the top than on the bottom will more likely warp than a board with an equal number of coats on each side? 

PS: I recently had a new solid wood board warp but managed to unwarp it by placing weights on it for two weeks,

Well, because of the scarcity of information around chessboard manufacturing, I looked into the next best thing, which is furniture manufacturing. Wood finishes (stains, varnishes, etc.) slow down the rate at which wood absorbs moisture, so good quality furniture is stained on all sides (even the sides that are not visible in service) to ensure as even moisture absorption (as much as possible). If, for example, a wooden table top is finished on its top side but not on its bottom side, it will definitely be more susceptible to warping than if its bottom side were finished; I think this would be analogous to a chessboard, which is why chessboards are typically finished on all sides, the same way. So yes, uneven varnish application could result in uneven moisture absorption.

 

That is interesting regarding the weights; what did you use/how much weight? Did you leave it on 24/7?

First I put the board between two plastic bags to prevent scratching. The board was warping from the middle so I placed a large coffee table book that weighed about 8 pounds on top of the board in preparation for adding heavier weights. I thought the book would provide a second layer of protection and even out the pressure of the additional weights I used. Lastly, I added dumbbell plates on top of the book. I don't recall the total weight but the plates probably added another 25 to 30 pounds. I added the weights one at a time because I wanted to minimize the chance of cracking the board. When the weights were first applied the center was still bowed but slightly less than when the board was un-weighted. I kept the weights on 24/7 except for a few occasions when I took the board out to do a progress check.  EDIT: Looking at my exercise room I think the dumbbell plates I added amounted to more than 40 pounds.

MGT88
itpro75 wrote:
MGT88 wrote:
itpro75 wrote:

Good information. Does this mean that a board with a thicker layer of varnish on the top than on the bottom will more likely warp than a board with an equal number of coats on each side? 

PS: I recently had a new solid wood board warp but managed to unwarp it by placing weights on it for two weeks,

Well, because of the scarcity of information around chessboard manufacturing, I looked into the next best thing, which is furniture manufacturing. Wood finishes (stains, varnishes, etc.) slow down the rate at which wood absorbs moisture, so good quality furniture is stained on all sides (even the sides that are not visible in service) to ensure as even moisture absorption (as much as possible). If, for example, a wooden table top is finished on its top side but not on its bottom side, it will definitely be more susceptible to warping than if its bottom side were finished; I think this would be analogous to a chessboard, which is why chessboards are typically finished on all sides, the same way. So yes, uneven varnish application could result in uneven moisture absorption.

 

That is interesting regarding the weights; what did you use/how much weight? Did you leave it on 24/7?

First I put the board between two plastic bags to prevent scratching. The board was warping from the middle so I placed a large coffee table book that weighed about 8 pounds on top of the board in preparation for adding heavier weights. I thought the book would provide a second layer of protection and even out the pressure of the additional weights I used. Lastly, I added dumbbell plates on top of the book. I don't recall the total weight but the plates probably added another 25 to 30 pounds. I added the weights one at a time because I wanted to minimize the chance of cracking the board. When the weights were first applied the center was still bowed but slightly less than when the board was un-weighted. I kept the weights on 24/7 except for a few occasions when I took the board out to do a progress check.  EDIT: Looking at my exercise room I think the dumbbell plates I added amounted to more than 40 pounds.

very interesting; nice method

Aernout_nl

I recently ordered a JLP Hardwood chess board, and I am now excitingly awaiting its arrival.

However, talking to friends and bragging about my purchase, they warned me that I should have bought a veneer board because solid wood tends to have issues with warping. I am now doing some googling to try and cure my newfound anxiety and provisional buyer's remorse, and this led me to this rather old thread.

While doing my "research", i.e. window (browser?) shopping, I also came across JLP's folding chess board. Since the inside of the folding chess board is always closed off, will this cause additional risk of warping? Does that mean you would actually need to store is un-folded and vertically, kind of defeating its purpose? And is it the same for the Stack, which is a board in 4 quadrants that snap together using magnets? In any case, I am definitely glad I ordered the simple, low-risk, non-folding, non-Stack board.

Since my current >30 yrs old veneer board has damage on the corners and loose veneer peeling off on its sides, I specifically invested in this pricey solid wooden to enjoy it "for life"--thinking that solid wood will last much longer and can be restored by sanding and re-finishing.

Can anybody comment on the long-term warpiness of such chess boards, providing my some reassurance?

P.S. I also found this thread, which contains a ton of information by MGT88 on the subject. So I guess I will just store my board vertically and hope for the best. I'm still wondering about the folding board though... Just seems like a risky product, does it not..?

MGT88
Feel free to DM me and I’d be happy to discuss/share what I know; I’ve actually spoken with a few scientists on this subject
Pawnerai

Depending on your climate, solid wood boards are always a gamble.

Two things in your favor are:

1- JLP is a quality manufacturer of boards.

2- You're aware of storing boards vertically.

Enjoy the board for the next 30 years. Good luck!

 

Mornstar7

I don't know. I guess this depends on extreme humidity situations

Mornstar7

I've had a board face up in my table since 2004 in the crazy Florida year-round humidity. Zero warping. The only warp I ever saw was to a cheap folding wooden board. I played in a park with it for about 3 hours every other weekend for a few months. For some of the time, the board was exposed to direct sunlight. This did warp the board. This is onethe humidity. and got some of that time My only advise Don't expose your wooden boards