Re-Felting a Chess Set

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pontpierre
WandelKoningin wrote:
pontpierre wrote:
OutOfCheese wrote:

Well... you got wood on one side, fabric on the other...

Both should be fine, I think there's more collective experience with wood glue for re-felting though (I might be wrong on this but I believe most people have some wood glue at home anyways and just would use that instead of going out to buy fabric glue).

As long as the glue doesn't soak into the fabric probably any glue would be fine. I would refrain from hot glue, thermal shock could lead some woods to crack.

has anyone tried the fabric glue for the felt material side and wood glue for the wood plastic and marble sides?

I don’t know if mixing glues works, but it shouldn’t be needed. Last week, I used Aleene’s Quick Dry Tacky Glue to refelt carbolite (plastic) pieces, and it went perfectly.

A few times, the felt got too soaked with the glue, so some white could be seen on the bottom of the felt, in which case I threw the felt away and tried again. After a few felts, I got the process just right:

  1. I would cover the whole bottom of the chess piece with glue and then stamp the bottom a few times on a piece of carton to remove excess glue.
  2. I then applied the felt (cut a bit larger than the chess piece; actually, I cut it into square shapes), but I didn’t press too hard.
  3. I would leave it for a minute to dry, and then press the chess piece on the table a few times. This way I could get a firm bond while assuring that the glue wouldn’t drip through the felt.
  4. Then I would cut the felt to the exact shape of the chess piece.

Here is the result of the refelted king:

the result is very clean. is soaking not recommended for a good sticky bond? how is the bounce and spongyness on the board of the refelted king with the tacky glue?

OutOfCheese

If the glue soaks through the felt the felt wont be soft after drying, that's why I suggested higher viscosity glue.

To cut the felt once the glue is dried you can use scissors and patience or, if you're a daredevil, fix a razor blade (eg with a small bench vise) and spin the bottom of your piece carefully against it. The Pichon-Rosset factory shop did it similarly, but with a rotating blade (felting process from minute 13:00 on, blade contraption shortly after 14:20)
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/DoZGnQ3t3nCQeBAv/?mibextid=WC7FNe

WandelKoningin
pontpierre wrote:
WandelKoningin wrote:
pontpierre wrote:
OutOfCheese wrote:

Well... you got wood on one side, fabric on the other...

Both should be fine, I think there's more collective experience with wood glue for re-felting though (I might be wrong on this but I believe most people have some wood glue at home anyways and just would use that instead of going out to buy fabric glue).

As long as the glue doesn't soak into the fabric probably any glue would be fine. I would refrain from hot glue, thermal shock could lead some woods to crack.

has anyone tried the fabric glue for the felt material side and wood glue for the wood plastic and marble sides?

I don’t know if mixing glues works, but it shouldn’t be needed. Last week, I used Aleene’s Quick Dry Tacky Glue to refelt carbolite (plastic) pieces, and it went perfectly.

A few times, the felt got too soaked with the glue, so some white could be seen on the bottom of the felt, in which case I threw the felt away and tried again. After a few felts, I got the process just right:

  1. I would cover the whole bottom of the chess piece with glue and then stamp the bottom a few times on a piece of carton to remove excess glue.
  2. I then applied the felt (cut a bit larger than the chess piece; actually, I cut it into square shapes), but I didn’t press too hard.
  3. I would leave it for a minute to dry, and then press the chess piece on the table a few times. This way I could get a firm bond while assuring that the glue wouldn’t drip through the felt.
  4. Then I would cut the felt to the exact shape of the chess piece.

Here is the result of the refelted king:

the result is very clean. is soaking not recommended for a good sticky bond? how is the bounce and spongyness on the board of the refelted king with the tacky glue?

Yeah I guess the glue needs to penetrate the felt a little bit, but it shouldn’t leak through to the other end, as you will get noticeable glue spots on the bottom, and it probably ruins the feel of the felt as well. That’s why stamping the piece on some glossy cardboard a few times helped, as there was still plenty of glue left on the piece to make the bond with the felt, but not enough for the felt to get soaked and leak through to the bottom.

The pieces glide over the board nicely; the felt is still soft and silky. In terms of sound absorption, the felt I used is quite thin, so sound absorption could be better. Most of the pieces sound nice, but the white king became the heaviest piece after adding more weight to it, so it’s louder than the other pieces. I filled the pieces with tungsten putty, increasing the weight of the white king from 18.73 g to 46.15 g. Not bad for plastic pieces!

I’m awaiting another order of tungsten putty now so that I can finish weighting and felting the pieces next week. Anyway, if you want more sound absorption, I guess I would go for 1.5 mm or thicker. The felt I used is 1.2 mm. For wooden pieces I would probably go thicker, but for plastic pieces I really like the felt I went with; I don’t want the felt to be thicker and thus more noticeable for these relatively small pieces.

GrandPatzerDave

From an expert: http://www.ivoryrepair.com/Chess%20Restoration.html

GeorgeGoodnight

I used the self adhesive felt. I stuck it to the piece and then cut to size with very sharp scissors.

pontpierre
WandelKoningin wrote:
pontpierre wrote:
WandelKoningin wrote:
pontpierre wrote:
OutOfCheese wrote:

Well... you got wood on one side, fabric on the other...

Both should be fine, I think there's more collective experience with wood glue for re-felting though (I might be wrong on this but I believe most people have some wood glue at home anyways and just would use that instead of going out to buy fabric glue).

As long as the glue doesn't soak into the fabric probably any glue would be fine. I would refrain from hot glue, thermal shock could lead some woods to crack.

has anyone tried the fabric glue for the felt material side and wood glue for the wood plastic and marble sides?

I don’t know if mixing glues works, but it shouldn’t be needed. Last week, I used Aleene’s Quick Dry Tacky Glue to refelt carbolite (plastic) pieces, and it went perfectly.

A few times, the felt got too soaked with the glue, so some white could be seen on the bottom of the felt, in which case I threw the felt away and tried again. After a few felts, I got the process just right:

  1. I would cover the whole bottom of the chess piece with glue and then stamp the bottom a few times on a piece of carton to remove excess glue.
  2. I then applied the felt (cut a bit larger than the chess piece; actually, I cut it into square shapes), but I didn’t press too hard.
  3. I would leave it for a minute to dry, and then press the chess piece on the table a few times. This way I could get a firm bond while assuring that the glue wouldn’t drip through the felt.
  4. Then I would cut the felt to the exact shape of the chess piece.

Here is the result of the refelted king:

the result is very clean. is soaking not recommended for a good sticky bond? how is the bounce and spongyness on the board of the refelted king with the tacky glue?

Yeah I guess the glue needs to penetrate the felt a little bit, but it shouldn’t leak through to the other end, as you will get noticeable glue spots on the bottom, and it probably ruins the feel of the felt as well. That’s why stamping the piece on some glossy cardboard a few times helped, as there was still plenty of glue left on the piece to make the bond with the felt, but not enough for the felt to get soaked and leak through to the bottom.

The pieces glide over the board nicely; the felt is still soft and silky. In terms of sound absorption, the felt I used is quite thin, so sound absorption could be better. Most of the pieces sound nice, but the white king became the heaviest piece after adding more weight to it, so it’s louder than the other pieces. I filled the pieces with tungsten putty, increasing the weight of the white king from 18.73 g to 46.15 g. Not bad for plastic pieces!

I’m awaiting another order of tungsten putty now so that I can finish weighting and felting the pieces next week. Anyway, if you want more sound absorption, I guess I would go for 1.5 mm or thicker. The felt I used is 1.2 mm. For wooden pieces I would probably go thicker, but for plastic pieces I really like the felt I went with; I don’t want the felt to be thicker and thus more noticeable for these relatively small pieces.

thank you this is exactly what i was pondering. i want the pieces to have a good bounce on the board and was afraid the glue may dampen it if i dont use 2mm with a glue that can penetrate the felt

salujakbs

Well! Seems like I got a lot of info here. Would surely try and share results whenever I get some time for this