Can you guys Help me make my own study plan?

Hello people of chess.com! 

 I want to make my own study plan that i can do everyday for example when exercising you can create a plan of doing

30 push ups a day and 30 situps a day etc...

I want to do this for chess but i dont know where to really begin, all i know is for tactics i can do like 30 or 40 of tactics trainer a day or somthing like that but im not so sure about studying Strategy, endgame etc... can i have some help please?

I am a begginner but i guess you could say an advance begginner i think, somewhere around there, i only play 30 min live chess matches and my rating is at the moment 1082. Also this is just one of my games i recently played if you guys want to see.

One of the things I like to do is play over games of past masters and or openings I wish to learn in Chess Hero. It's a free program that lets you set up databases or single games to play over. You can set it so a random position from a game/DB comes up and you play the next moves. The computer will tell you if it's a correct move or not. Or what I like to do is set it so a game starts at the beginning and the in game moves are correct not what the engine says is right. You can replay openings over and over until you have them down....you can get the PGN's from games at chessgames.com Chess Hero is a very good program for learning in my opinion. Many ways to use it.

I see you're a premium member so doing half an hour or more a day in the Tactics Trainer would be good. And the Chess Mentor is an awesome way to increase your knowledge. I do at least one course in CM every day.

What you need to be doing is studying endings.  You need to understand how to operate 3 to 10 pieces on the board before even remotely trying to figure out what to do with 32 pieces on the board.  For this, your best bet is to get a beginners Endgame book, and go thru it cover to cover.  Maybe spend 1/4 of your time on Tactics, but the rest should be Endgame play and nothing but until you know each of the following items like the back of your hand:

   A) WKe6, WPe5, BKe8, what's the result with White to move?  Black to move?
   B) WKe5, WPe4, BKe7, what's the result with White to move?  Black to move?  
   C) WKe5, WPe6, BKe7, what's the result with White to move?  Black to move?
   D) What is Lucena's Position?  How do you execute it?  For which pawns does this apply?
   E) What is Philidor's Draw?  How do you execute it?  Are there exceptions?
   F) What is the Short Side Defense?  When do you use it?
   G) What is the Long Side Defense?  When do you use it?
   H) How do you mate with KQ vs K?
   I) How do you make with KR vs K?
   J) How do you mate with KBB vs K?
   K) How do you mate with KBN vs K?
   L) What is the rule about K and Rook Pawn vs K?  Where does the defending King have to get to?

Until you can understand each of these like the back of your hand, you have no business studying things like Openings.  A brief rundown of some of the answers (you still need to understand why in each case) are as follows:

A) White always wins
B) White wins only if it's Black to move
C) Always a draw
D) It's a scenario of R+P vs R where the Defending King is away from the pawn, blocked off by 3 files, and the player with the pawn builds a bridge (I'll let you research "how" to build that bridge).  Applies to all pawns except Rook Pawns.
E) It's a scenario of R+P vs R where the Defending King is in front of the pawn, and the Rook covers the 6th rank (3rd if they are White) until the pawn is advanced to that point, then the Rook goes all the way down behind the offender's King.  Applies to all pawns except Rook Pawns.
F) It's a scenario of R+P vs R where the Defending King is in front of the pawn or towards the near edge.  This is used when the offender's Rook already covers the 6th Rank.  This applies to Bishop pawns.
G) It's a scenario of R+P vs R where the Defending King is in front of the pawn and the offending side controls the 6th, the defender's rook goes to the side away from the pawn.  Applies to Central Pawns.
H thru K) Consult that endgame book!
L) If the King gets to c8 against an a-pawn (c1 for White) or f8 against an h-pawn (or f1 for White) with the side with the pawn to move, and the pawn is either on the 5th rank or further back OR the pawn is on the 6th rank but the King doesn't cover b7 (g7 for h-pawns), it's a draw.  So for example, if Black just played Kc8, White only wins if his pawn was already on a7 or his pawn is on a6 and the King is on b6 or c6 with White to move.  All other scenarios are a draw.

If you are dropping pieces even 1 out of 10 games than tactics is substantially more important than endgames.  9 out of 10 GMs agree it's all tactics until you are about club level.  I can't exactly tell your strength from one game but since you are completely lost after 8.. Nxf3+ I'm pretty sure tactics should be your emphasis.

But my advise aside, great post Thriller.  I would probably struggle with several of those basic endgame positions which is sad for my rating.  I may use your post as a guide in the future because I do plan on working on my endgame soon.

Thanks guys for the advice!

Also thriller do you have any recommendations for a good endgame book?

I've found two good books for endings.  One is Silman's Complete End Game.  This book starts with the easier end games KQ vs K and moves to more complex endings.  The other book is Basic Chess Endings by Reubin Fine.  Once you get the concept of the endings, you can set it up on a board and play through.

What goal do you have in mind?

Cravingollie,

Thrillerfan (ooh, I love your name) is oh so right. Breaking the board down to it's simplest form - the bare ending - what a wonderful place to begin. And, follow my beloved Thrillerfan's lead - do not spend much time on openings at this point.

Your Good Ghostess Lola

AaronGo said what I would have said.

I recommend Silman's Complete Endgame Course for those under 1800, and Fundamental Chess Endings by the two German Authors for those over 1800 (Over 1800 over the board, not chess.com ratings)

thank you. Very smart about 3-10 pcs.