Good luck, Thanks
How can you punish a double fianchetto?
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Mar 15, 2021
0
#23
Bro, again I am just very good as black. I could start losing a bunch of games as black and stuff and you would be like "okay all is in order." See what I mean?
Most top players have NEGATIVE ratios as black! This means they lose more than they win.
I actually win more as black than I lose. And SAME with white. I win more than I lose. My ratio of win/loss is exceedingly positive.
And again, there are famous examples of players who have had similar experiences as black. The tennis example is not good. Playing the black pieces does NOT put you at the same disadvantage as returning serve bro. Are you crazy?
No.
Now Shut Up you crazy person.
I try to help you and then you start private messaging me, I respond politely and you block me. Get the fu.k out of here.
It's not bad at all... just control the center, develop your pieces, wait for your opponent to castle and castle the other side, trade the bishop where your opponent's king is castled and attack them with a pawn storm! For example:
something like that
Always remember the combination of Bishop, queen, and harry the h-pawn (alongside garry the g-pawn if they play Nf6 and you don't wanna sac a pawn
chamo2074 wrote:
It's not bad at all... just control the center, develop your pieces, wait for your opponent to castle and castle the other side, trade the bishop where your opponent's king is castled and attack them with a pawn storm! For example:
something like that
Always remember the combination of Bishop, queen, and harry the h-pawn (alongside garry the g-pawn if they play Nf6 and you don't wanna sac a pawn
What is the function of the b7 bishop though? It's just going to be blocking black's attack on the b-file now, while if you had developed it to e6 it would be in a strong attacking position (d7 out of the way would be ok as well if it's easier). It's also hitting a super strong pawn chain how it is, white has no reason to move those pawns. The move b7 to b6 to b5 could then have been made in one go.
Uhohspaghettio1 wrote:
chamo2074 wrote:
It's not bad at all... just control the center, develop your pieces, wait for your opponent to castle and castle the other side, trade the bishop where your opponent's king is castled and attack them with a pawn storm! For example:
something like that
Always remember the combination of Bishop, queen, and harry the h-pawn (alongside garry the g-pawn if they play Nf6 and you don't wanna sac a pawn
What is the function of the b7 bishop though? It's just going to be blocking black's attack on the b-file now, while if you had developed it to e6 it would be in a strong attacking position (d7 out of the way would be ok as well if it's easier). The move b7 to b6 to b5 could have been made in one go.
True but that;s kind of what he'll face
Also just giving an example
Use the pawn storm to destroy bishop fianchetto. When the opponent make fianchetto and castle, they are going to play passive chess and want to wait for you to blunder. So you need to play with courage, make all out attack toward his king. When he has received pressure, he will likely to blunder instead of you.
11 hrs ago
0
#29
Given that the games I usually see are waiting games by the side that fianchettos the Bishops, I would prefer that the center be locked to at least one of them, preferably the side I am castled to. The idea being that if the center gets liquidated, now that Bishop has greater scope. I get a few double fianchettos but for the most part, I play against the KID as White and try to undermine the Kingside by wing attacks until there is an advantage. Really, isn't somewhat along the lines of what Nimzovitch would say to blockade, restrain and destroy ( at least the restrain part)?
7 hrs ago
0
#30
Uhohspaghettio1 wrote:
The first reply is misleading and wrong - Hikaru intentionally plays garbage all the time, grandmasters very rarely play double fianchettoed openings because they're generally weak.
OP you should take control of the centre and exploit the usual frailties of the fianchetto at the kingside. Because the opponent has gone for a double fianchetto you probably have time to take control and lock at least one of the bishop's squares up in the centre.
Keep in mind though that double fianchettoes are more just very passive and not all that bad, you shouldn't be looking to force things right away. There are even very rare times when it makes sense to play a double fianchetto and it's in opening theory as a top quality opening but that is a huge exception.
kamsky and spassky would like a word.
6 hrs ago
0
#31
there is no one panecea agaisnt this and in some openings like many lines of the english and the reti, it is the main line. It all depends on the position, if you mean specifically the hippo system, the common wisdom is to erect a 3 pawn center and wait for the right moment to close the position with the right pawn push(usually in reply to a wing pawn thrust e.g c5, you play d5). in some lines, early h pawn push hoping to soften the kingside and then use f4 to threaten it further if g4-g5 (or redirect your focus to the weak g pawn ).
darkunorthodox88 wrote:
Uhohspaghettio1 wrote:
The first reply is misleading and wrong - Hikaru intentionally plays garbage all the time, grandmasters very rarely play double fianchettoed openings because they're generally weak.
OP you should take control of the centre and exploit the usual frailties of the fianchetto at the kingside. Because the opponent has gone for a double fianchetto you probably have time to take control and lock at least one of the bishop's squares up in the centre.
Keep in mind though that double fianchettoes are more just very passive and not all that bad, you shouldn't be looking to force things right away. There are even very rare times when it makes sense to play a double fianchetto and it's in opening theory as a top quality opening but that is a huge exception.
kamsky and spassky would like a word.
They tell me they did not play double fianchetto as white against everything, that occasionally in specific positions and as part of preparation they played it with specific ideas in mind.
As we know this isn't what typical people are asking when they say can I fianchetto both sides as white and it's not what they are looking for. One of the main hopes among typical players is that the opponent forgets about the bishop hitting the rook from the long diagonal. And they also hope to develop into a good player by playing this way, which is neither realistic and nor is it going to be enjoyable to them to play like that.
My ratio in BLITZ as white is: 53% wins as white, 41% losses as black, and 6% draws. My ratio in Blitz as Black is 54% wins, 39% losses, 7% draws.
Overall, I have a win loss draw ratio of 53% wins/40% losses/7% draws.
Considering I am playing people more or less around my level, I would say that is damn good.
As white, I win wayyy more than I lose. As black, I win wayy more than I lose. Yes, I seem to have equal stats as white and black, but that has to do with my style. As white, I go for more solid play, rather than really trying to hammer my initiative. Also, many players seem to play really well as black. I don't want to brag, but I play very well as black and hence, I have equal stats.
As for time controls, 3 minutes is the most popular format for strong players. Strong players don't play much else besides 3 minute and 1 minute.
I don't know if you're just trying to bait with this, but there is not a single strong chess player in the world who does that.
Are you saying that a strong player can't have my win/loss ratios??? Because there are actually quite a few notable strong players who have had similar experiences. Petrosian (famous counter attacker) and Jan Timman are excellent examples. My win/loss ratios show that I win most games I play as white, but I am also just as likely to win as black, which as I wrote means I am just apparently really good as black for some reason.
Or are you just talking about the last thing I said about the time controls?? Regarding the time controls, I am not baiting. Of course, most strong players play standard long time controls of 90 minutes etc. What I meant is that strong players on chess.com (online specifically) MOSTLY play Blitz and Bullet (3 min and 1 min in particular). Offline they play in OTB tournaments typically in long time controls. I didn't specify in my response so my bad. But yeah, just check the top games being played in live chess to see what I mean. You will find almost all games to be either 3 minute or 1 minute.
Obviously no strong players who play seriously have the same score as black as white, nevermind actual FIDE-rated games. That would be like claiming there are top tennis players who do just as well receiving a serve as they do when they have the serve.
I had a look in live chess and have to admit the statement "almost all games are 3 minute" is fairly accurate. "almost all games are either 3 minute or 1 minute" isn't though as there are only a very tiny fraction of 1 minute games played compared to 3 minute.
1 minute is more like a videogame than chess as we both know. 3 minute might have some legitimacy to it but 3 2 is the shortest time limit you can get something actually resembling a game. I don't know why so many people play at such a ridiculous time limit as 3 0.
Many years ago when I played first I used to just play 5 0 or 3 0 because so many others were doing it. And after a few years of this something hit me on why I'm not playing with increment, especially as so many games were ending in ridiculous time scrambles, and since then I've never looked back.