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Please help me with this endgame!?

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Gibbilo

Here is a recent daily game that I played. All things considered, I think I was actually doing pretty good until move 27 wherein I stared at the board for a long time and tried to come up with a plan (that ultimately failed):

At this point I chose 27.b4 with the goal of limiting the enemy bishop to slide in behind, while freeing my bishop to the other side of the board to try and get behind the pawn structure while my king holds the middle. I tried calculating, but it seemed to be way to complex... (i'm hoping there is some principles you all can enlighten me on instead?)

Feel free to critique specific moves of my endgame where I really screwed up. But honestly, I would *love* to have someone of you all just explain to me, in the general sense, how to assess the board from move 27 and come up with the right plan.

It seemed to me that as the endgame progressed every move I made just made my position a tiny bit weaker, (even though my entire goal in every move was to shore up weaknesses or create a threat).  Meanwhile my opponents moves seemed less...weak. But I can't figure out why, just that ultimately i ended up in a losing position. tear.png

Thanks for the help! happy.png

Gibbilo
Manatini wrote:

I only looked as far as move 30, and that position pretty much tells me everything I need to know about the two players  All your pawns are on dark squares. All his pawns are on light squares. Positions very similar to that have appeared in endgame books with the simple evaluation "white is completely lost."

In bishop of same color endgames it's almost always good to keep the pawns off the same color as your bishop. 3 basic reasons:

1) Putting the pawns on the same color as your bishop is redundant and effectively abandons the other color. This means the enemy can much more easily infiltrate.

2) Putting the pawns on the same color limits your bishop's mobility

3) Putting the pawns on the same color gives the enemy bishop targets.

---

In fact this general rule is so important and useful, I think it's almost a crime that it isn't mentioned extremely often. I think this endgame knowledge should be more common than things like the Lucena and Philidor positions. Sure rook endgames are more common, but unlike those rook positions this is just pure logic and can be learned and understood quickly.

Even in bishops of opposite color endgames, it's useful to keep the pawns off the same color as your bishop. Even in bishop vs rook endgames. Only when you're setting up a passive fortress that you're 100% can't be broken down should you set all your pawns on the same color as your bishop.

I suppose on very rare occasions it's a good winning strategy, but pretty much only when their piece is dominated i.e. you put your pawns like that when it suffocates their position.

 

Hmmm. Thanks for the feedback. I do have a few questions though. I like your point about abandoning control of the other color with pawns/bishops on the same color. However, doesn't quite make intuitive sense to me. I feel like with my pawns being on the same color as the enemy bishop should actually restrict his movement too right? It seemed to me that if i could take away all of his dark squares and defend the pawn base with the king, then my bishop would be more active in the center (if somewhat blocked by my pawns on the flank)?

Or instead,...I basically lost the game with 19.Bxd5. Because at that point my pawns were already on dark squares and I traded off my light square control?

Also any tips for analyzing the position and attempting to improve it or at that point is it really just  "hopeless" ?

Gibbilo

@manatini excellent feedback thanks happy.png!

IMKeto

I am the king of chess principles!  So allow me to take a principled stab at this...

 

peepchuy
Gibbilo wrote:

Here is a recent daily game that I played. All things considered, I think I was actually doing pretty good until move 27 wherein I stared at the board for a long time and tried to come up with a plan (that ultimately failed):

 

 

At this point I chose 27.b4 with the goal of limiting the enemy bishop to slide in behind, while freeing my bishop to the other side of the board to try and get behind the pawn structure while my king holds the middle. I tried calculating, but it seemed to be way to complex... (i'm hoping there is some principles you all can enlighten me on instead?)

 

Feel free to critique specific moves of my endgame where I really screwed up. But honestly, I would *love* to have someone of you all just explain to me, in the general sense, how to assess the board from move 27 and come up with the right plan.

 

It seemed to me that as the endgame progressed every move I made just made my position a tiny bit weaker, (even though my entire goal in every move was to shore up weaknesses or create a threat).  Meanwhile my opponents moves seemed less...weak. But I can't figure out why, just that ultimately i ended up in a losing position.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

There are some general principles. This is a bishop ending, with both bishop on squares of the same colour. You should try to avoid blocking your pawns in square of that same colour: they become targets.

Ok, you already had a blocked pawn on c5, that alone should not be enough to lose. You also had doubled pawns, in this case I do not think it is particularly bad, but still is another small disadvantage. In that position, you have to defend and strive for a draw, not for a win.

I think a good move for you was 27. h5. It blocks the h6 black pawn on a dark square. While it is defended, it can still become a target (for example, if you attack the pawn on g7 and your opponent advances it... just don't change on g6, play g4).

You allowed your opponent to play h5, which blocked more of your pawns on dark squares. This has two disadvantages for you: all those pawns are targets for his bishop; and his king has a lot more opportunities to raid your camp. His pawns cover the light squares, while his bishop covers the dark squares, your king can not pose a serious threat. On the other hand, your pawns and your bishop all cover only the dark squares, so his king can threaten to invade thru the light squares.

Finally, remember that these are general principles, which have a lot of exceptions; but your game was not one of them. In every position you have to calculate precisely, and general principles applied wisely (not blindly) can save you a lot of time and half-points.

markkoso

After move 26 the best you can hope for is a draw. Especially as it's a daily game that will likely be precisely played. That is indicated by blacks maybe slightly better pawn formation.  in such positions if you know you are playing for a draw it is easier.  I would look at exploiting blacks backward pawn on g7 so he is unable to create a passed pawn and kill any counterplay.

Gibbilo

hmm thanks everybody! hopefully i will do better next time I'm in this position. Or or hopefully avoid it to begin with wink.png 

NaraNarayana

 my thought whte wonnng 

NaraNarayana
Gibbilo wrote:

Here is a recent daily game that I played. All things considered, I think I was actually doing pretty good until move 27 wherein I stared at the board for a long time and tried to come up with a plan (that ultimately failed):

 

 

At this point I chose 27.b4 with the goal of limiting the enemy bishop to slide in behind, while freeing my bishop to the other side of the board to try and get behind the pawn structure while my king holds the middle. I tried calculating, but it seemed to be way to complex... (i'm hoping there is some principles you all can enlighten me on instead?)

 

Feel free to critique specific moves of my endgame where I really screwed up. But honestly, I would *love* to have someone of you all just explain to me, in the general sense, how to assess the board from move 27 and come up with the right plan.

 

It seemed to me that as the endgame progressed every move I made just made my position a tiny bit weaker, (even though my entire goal in every move was to shore up weaknesses or create a threat).  Meanwhile my opponents moves seemed less...weak. But I can't figure out why, just that ultimately i ended up in a losing position.

 

Thanks for the help!

your blunder was  the move  Bxc5.

Thee_Ghostess_Lola

In the sortie in quote #1 ?....

49...Kc4 is a lightsout blunder.... 'cuza 50. Ka5

Arisktotle

27. h5! looks like a move that might have saved the game. White takes control of the white squares on the king side making his defensive task considerably easier. There is no hurry to play b4 since black does not wish to place a weak pawn on a5 until the time is right.

Thee_Ghostess_Lola
IMBacon wrote:

I am the king of chess principles!  So allow me to take a principled stab at this...

 

27. b4 isnt fine. its dum. get ur pawns on white squares (27. h5 !) w/ h5-g4-f3 and ur king on e4 if u can. and ur B to d4. again if u can. 4gittabout b2. who cares if u lose it. it'll be good herring 4a tempo gain if they wanna try2 eat it. c5 has a target on its back so watch it from behind w/ ur B. hth. oh ! diddi say I wuz 1600 ?....my advice ?....fwiw.

IMKeto
Thee_Ghostess_Lola wrote:
IMBacon wrote:

I am the king of chess principles!  So allow me to take a principled stab at this...

 

27. b4 isnt fine. its dum. get ur pawns on white squares (27. h5 !) w/ h5-g4-f3 and ur king on e4 if u can. and ur B to d4. again if u can. 4gittabout b2. who cares if u lose it. it'll be good herring 4a tempo gain if they wanna try2 eat it. c5 has a target on its back so watch it from behind w/ ur B. hth. oh ! diddi say I wuz 1600 ?....my advice ?....fwiw.

You don't like 27.b4...that is all i was able to understand.  I have no idea what you were trying to convey after that.

Thee_Ghostess_Lola

try again in English

dont hafta appease ppl like u.

Thee_Ghostess_Lola

beauzeau347. uv been here since may 2019. My accts over 5 years old. 

now. wut were u saying ?

Thee_Ghostess_Lola

doh-see-doh-see-doh !!