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Offered a draw because I had no clue what to do, opponent accepted it...
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Mar 1, 2020
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#23
GoGophers wrote:
Secondly, could a Grand Master have won from my (white) position?
Against a 750, I think a GM could win down a queen and two rooks. In this position against a 1900, I'd happily take a draw. Otherwise I'd try to trade down to an equalish endgame. Against a 750, I'd decline a draw and probably try for a pawn break (something with g4?). But that's only because I trust myself to eradicate a 750 in a tactical position. If you had to keep playing, you want to trade off.
GoGophers wrote:
... I start with the Queen's pawn opening because I lose a lot if I do the King's pawn opening. ...
I think that it can be particularly hard to find stuff to do if you start with 1 d4 and do not play an early c4.
"… [After 1 d4 d5,] the most important move [is] 2 c4 ..." - IM John Watson (2010)
You might want to switch to 1 e4, accept losses, learn from your losses, and look at some sample games illustrating attacking ideas. Alternatively, you could look at some sample 1 d4 (without c4) games.
"... For players with very limited experience, I recommend using openings in which the play can be clarified at an early stage, often with a degree of simplification. To accomplish this safely will take a little study, because you will have to get used to playing wiith open lines for both sides' pieces, but you can't eliminate risk entirely in the opening anyway. ... teachers all over the world suggest that inexperienced players begin with 1 e4. ... You will undoubtedly see the reply 1 ... e5 most often when playing at or near a beginner's level, ... After 2 Nf3, 2 ... Nc6 will occur in the bulk of your games. ... I recommend taking up the classical and instructive move 3 Bc4 at an early stage. Then, against 3 ... Bc5, it's thematic to try to establish the ideal centre by 4 c3 and 5 d4; after that, things can get complicated enough that you need to take a look at some theory and learn the basics; ... Of course, you can also play 1 d4 ... A solid and more-or-less universal set-up is 2 Nf3 and 3 Bf4, followed in most cases by 4 e3, 5 Be2 and 6 0-0. I'd rather see my students fight their way through open positions instead; however, if you're not getting out of the opening alive after 1 e4, this method of playing 1 d4 deserves consideration. ... " - IM John Watson in a section of his 2010 book, Mastering the Chess Openings, Volume 4
https://www.chess.com/article/view/the-perfect-opening-for-the-lazy-student
https://www.chess.com/blog/2Bf41-0/3-reasons-why-everyone-should-play-london-system-pawn-structures
https://www.chess.com/blog/2Bf41-0/london-system-q-a
https://www.chess.com/article/view/how-to-understand-openings
https://www.chess.com/article/view/should-you-play-openings-like-magnus-carlsen
By the way, it is true that a steady diet of fast games can make it hard to improve one’s chess thinking.
"... Sure, fast games are fine for practicing openings (not the most important part of the game for most players) and possibly developing decent board vision and tactical 'shots', but the kind of thinking it takes to plan, evaluate, play long endgames, and find deep combinations is just not possible in quick chess. … for serious improvement ... consistently play many slow games to practice good thinking habits. ..." - NM Dan Heisman (2002)
https://web.archive.org/web/20140627052239/http://www.chesscafe.com/text/heisman16.pdf
Sometimes in the endgame, if the opponent thinks too long and the position is sort of drawish, I'll offer a draw. Depends on my mood though. The position has to be kinda drawish looking though.