12.Nf6+ followed by 13.Nxf7 traps and wins his Queen - Game over.
Will I Ever See 1000?
Here is what I can tell you from this recent game of yours.
On move 7 you played an interesting sacrifice, I remember you saying that your idol was Michael Tal, so I am not surprised that you played 7.Nxf7. When I take a shallow look at it, it looks like it can potentially be a good sacrifice as you are ahead in development, you will be able to castle while his king is exposed and he is underdeveloped.
On move 10 you played e5 which blunders the bishop. Why? Because your opponent could take your bishop with check. Always look for checks and captures for yourself and for your opponent. Also, you want the center to be open, you don't want to play a move like e5 even if e5 didn't blunder the bishop. Yes, you attack your opponents queen but he will move it away and what have you achieved? You have closed the center which 100% benefits black as black's king is stuck in the center and he is underdeveloped.
On move 11 you are down a piece, so if you can avoid the queen trade you should probably do so, even if it means losing a pawn (the only way to avoid queen trade that I see is 11.Qe3 and then he can take your bishop 11..Bxg5 then you are forced to recapture by playing 12.Qxg5 and then black can take the pawn on f2. But hey, if you have sacrificed a piece, giving up 1 more pawn doesn't make your position much worse. His king would still be stuck).
On move 13. you blunder your bishop by undefending it by moving the h pawn to h5. Every time you want to push a pawn you need to see which squares will be weakened. If you do that, you will not be blundering your pieces in this manner and your positional play will get better.
On move 18, you played g7 which is just giving up. Your opponent was stuck before that move, you should have just continued developing instead. Your opponent can't move his g8 knight, nor his h8 rook and if he tries to place his other rook to f8 then you play g7 and you are probably winning in such a situation. Your pawn is a torn in your opponents position because it is on g6. If you keep calm and see what resources you have in the position and you see what is annoying for your opponent in the position and you try to make the position as annoying as possible for your opponent, then you will be able to turn around many chess matches. Good luck!
On move 4 you played d5, d5 is a move which black would like to play but in this particular case it blunders a pawn. You need to count attackers and defenders. If your opponent has more attackers than you have defenders, you can't play the move. In this particular case, your opponent was attacking the d5 square three times, you were defending it twice.
On move 6 you play Nb4 which threatens the c2 fork but it allows Qxe5+ with check. When I play a longer game I look for all the checks and captures both for myself and for my opponent before I make a move and then ask myself are any of my opponent's captures good after my move. Another thing which you should do if you want to get better is that when you want to move a piece you should first establish what that piece is currently doing. Had you asked yourself either of those 2 questions, you wouldn't have played Nb4.
On move 5 you play h5 and you blunder the e pawn again. If you look for checks and captures you will not be making mistakes like this. This is a 60+0 game, you have the time to look for all the checks and captures before making each move. Such blunders should never happen (or they should happen very rarely) in 60+0 games, however, you make them basically every game that lasts over 30 moves and that is one of the major reasons why you are not higher rated than you are. Fortunately, there is a clear way to fix this issue and that is to always look for checks and captures both for yourself and for your opponent.
On move 12. your opponent uses a fork to win your knight. This is a very important lesson, when you have undefended pieces, you are vulnerable to tactics. The reason why this tactic existed is because the knight on c2 was undefended. Undefended pieces + exposed king = a lot of tactics. Which brings me to another reason why this tactic was possible and that is your king was still in the center. By paying attention to undefended pieces, or by looking at checks (or both, which is the best option) you will not be making moves like 11..Bd6 because you will see that 11..Bd6 blunders a tactic.
To summarise the advice (tips) from these 2 games:
1) Look for checks and captures both for yourself and for your opponent. Establish what checks and captures your opponent will have after you make your move. If you are playing a 60+0 game it is a good idea to scan where all of your opponent's pieces can go to before making almost every single one of your moves.
2) Pay attention to undefended pieces. They are especially dangerous if you also have an exposed king. Pay attention to pieces which are attacked and defended. Pay attention to pieces which you aren't defending with pawns, but which you are defending only with other pieces. These are called undefended pieces of the 2nd type. All of this applies both to your own pieces and to pieces of your opponent. Establish which one of your pieces and your opponent's pieces fall into these cathegories before making every single one of your moves. You have the time to do that, you play 60+0 games, not 3+0 games.
3) Before you move a piece you should first establish what that piece is currently doing. When you move pawns you should also see which squares (and pieces!) you are undefending. You should also see these same downsides for every one of your opponent's moves, it will surprise you how many good moves you will be able to find this way, by looking at the downsides of your opponent's moves.
4) When you move a piece you must see whether your opponent is attacking the square to which you are moving your piece. If he is attacking the destination square with a lower value piece than the piece you want to move, don't make such a move. This is especially important if you are moving your queen. Another important thing is that if your opponent is attacking that square more times than you will be defending it after your move then don't play that move.
These 4 advices from your 2 most recent losses will serve you in many games. If you follow them and implement them correctly, along with chess principles that you already know, you will be rated over 1000, in fact if you correctly implement my advice from this comment along with chess principles that you have already heard, you will probably be much higher rated than 1000.

OK I'll update my last post, if ya wanna win your games think of the game from a mathematical standpoint, if you study many of my games and realize what each piece is worth then you can win games, although this doesn't always work out, I'm recently noticed how this works, and I shouldn't be winning as many games as I am currently winning. Yeah go figure.
Uh maybe someone else asked already but..
Why are you playing 60 min games?
Normally I suggest early beginners to avoid 10+0 or faster.
15+10 and 30+0 are ideal imo... but 60 min is heavy man... And really no point playing 60 if most games end with both players having 50 mins on their clock so you didn't actually use the time to calculate deep.
I would start playing 30+20 and 60 min after you reach 1000, not before, because the game is so slow it becomes like a scientific thing where you try to be in complete control and we obviously can't at beginner level.
At this point in time need more games to gain experience, and it needs to be a game (which you play, like a kid) not a science project
Play 15+10 with the same calm you play 60 min. Try to actually use the entire 15 mins (with increment it can normally be around 20). Use the time. By using it I mean in critical positions try to out-calculate your opponent, don't just play a move and hope. Allow yourself to think basic strategy and don't think about the clock so much. If you get in to time pressure as a result of this that will only improve you that's part of the game.
Good luck.