My best game?(Please, people rated 2000+, can you analyze and comment/annotate?)

Hi, this game was played against my android cellphone application named: Chess.

We can chose the difficulty by name but it doesn't tell the elo or fide rating of the opponent.

There is:

Monkey

Child

Beginner

Apprentice

Recruit (the one I was playing against)

Adept

Veteran

Expert

Master

Grandmaster

Heister is kinda busy enough and is on vacations so it'll be nice if you could help me ;)

-Can you guys estimate my rating and the one of the computer in this game?

-Can you analyze it completely and explain me my mistakes?

-Could the computer had won against me when I stalemated it ?

-Could I had won in the endgame?

Thanks !!

You can't assess your rating from a single game with a computer.

To have an estimate of you rating, you need to play real OTB chess.

beggers are not chosers.but hey here are some good hight rated online players whom you can challenge in unrated online games.After the game you can look for advice.

Poor quality game from both sides. The computer is playing horribly too. Egg_nogin also pay attention, some issues with your analysis too.

7. Ne2? undevelops and cramps yourself.

8. Rf1?! Bxf4!? and suddenly you're down a pawn, and could be in some trouble. Double-edged, but gut feel says black's better.

9. Ng5 Nxh2? would be a mistake as it opens the h-file for white's attack. 9. Ng5 is a bad move not because of the h-pawn hanging, but because white's horribly undeveloped and doing nothing to solve it.

14. Nxf7 wins stuff.

24. Rd1?! is planless putzing you should avoid. Try plans like Ne4-Nc5, b3-c4-d5 or other things than just shuffling around and hoping something happens.

25. d5? blunders a pawn, 26. Rxd5? blunders an exchange, 32. a4? blunders a knight. This is at an unlimited time control you say? You are dead lost from this point on.

38. Kb1 is NOT a bad move (it prevents ...Ra1 which stops the a-pawn cold.) But white's still dead lost after 38...Re8 etc, watching a8 for good.

41...Nh5 0-1, mate is unstoppable via ...h1=R#.

71...Kf2???? stalemates, but K+Q v K is a very, very, very basic simple win. You're lucky the computer gave you that one.

You and the computer's ratings? Very low. Impossible to gauge.

Your mistakes? Stop hanging pieces and pawns. You turned a won game from move 20 to a loss on 26 to a dead loss on 34.

Could the computer have beaten you? You didn't stalemate the computer, it stalemated you. Fastest win I see is 71...Qf3 72. Kg1 Qg4+, 73...Kf2 and 74...Qg2# against any moves. Forced mate in 4.

Could you have won the endgame? If you mean before move 26, yes. From that point on it was just scrambling to avoid losing too fast.

Rating is connected with performance results against rated opponents, so unless either of your ratings is known this game can't be used for rating estimation, and can influence neither your nor your computer's rating. Moreover, rating estimation is more exact if more rated games are taken into account, and a single game can't be indicative enough. It also depends on what kind of rating you're talking about - there are FIDE rating, national ratings, etc. depending on the participants (in this case  - you and the computer).

Analysis is a form of studying, and it benefits mostly the one who's doing it. Of course 2000+ rated players, as you require, can completely analyze this game, but there will be benefit for neither them nor you in terms of gaining chess knowledge from that.

It was the computer that stalemated you both.

Yes, why not.

tl;dr: if you want to improve your chess and to study this game, spare an hour, look through the game, note what thoughts you had during play and during the analysis, and that'll be a good start.

Ok, can you tell me...

move 7... if it was better to ''cramp myself'' by bringing my knight there and still correctly attacking the center or just to exchange my queen and lose the possibility to castle and place my king into danger, or maybe just bring back my bishop and even more ''cramp myself''?

for move 8, was d4 the best move?

14. yeah I didn't see it that way.

24. Ne4 Nc5? You highlight when I get a pawn down but you suggest me to lose one? b3-c4-d5? Wouldn't it destroy my pawn structure and open the file for his rook?

25. d5? blunders a pawn, 26. Rxd5? blunders an exchange. Only the exchange in fact. I don't know why, I thought it was gonna move it's knight firstand I could retake his bishop with a fork (f5, e7), I recognize it's a bad move.

32. I thought it was worth the tempo for my  a pawn. (I think he would have queened before if I did care for the knight. Am I correct?)

38. Kb1 is NOT a bad move (it prevents ...Ra1 which stops the a-pawn cold.) But white's still dead lost after 38...Re8 etc, watching a8 for good.

Can't I just bring my rook to b7. Then a7 and rb8 or if 1. ... Ra8 2. a7 ?

Yeah, at the end, I'm completely lost.

Thanks !

sir for a moment i saw that you look like vladimir kramnik, seriously...

7. Qe2 Qxe2+ 8. Nxe2 looks better, and you can still castle. The issue with 7. Ne2 is that it blocks your queen while black's is staring at the centre, but after the queen trade it's much more acceptable.

8. d3 seems safer than 8. d4. The idea of both moves is the same, but 8. d3 doesn't leave a hole on e4.

How does 24. Ne4 lose a pawn? 24. Ne4 Ne7 (I assume this is what you're talking about) 25. Nc5 Bxg2? 26. Rg1. Your objective with Ne4-Nc5 is to harass black's structure, win a pawn if you can, maybe trade N for B. Of course you wouldn't blindly play the moves while hanging stuff, but here it can be done immediately.

The plan of b3-c4-d5 on the other hand, seeks to gain space on the queenside, harass his minors and get lines for your rooks, either behind the onrushing pawns or to allow them to fly to the 7th rank. It doesn't destroy your pawn structure, rather it's trying to create opportunities to get your pieces (and material advantage of an exchange) working for you.

32. a4? hangs your knight. A piece is almost never worth one tempo; here your knight would have done a better service staying alive to be sacced on the h-pawn at an appropriate time. Black can stop your pawn even with your very expensive extra tempo.

38...Re8 39. Rb7 Ra8 40. a7 h4 and now 41. Rb8? Rxa7. Black can stop your pawn, you can't stop all of his and the knight. Very losted at this point.

To sum up, what you need to work on is material and tactics (i.e. hanging stuff.) Place a little more importance to material than you already do, and try not to hang pieces or pawns for tempi or 'position' as most of the time it won't work. Sacrifices are rare because they don't usually work, that's why they're brilliant when they DO work.

<aggressive humor>

I would say your level is around "monkey", but that would not be nice for monkeys.

</aggressive humor>

Don't ask for 2000 players to analyse your games. Just ask "could you analyse my game please ?" next time. I would throw a wild guess of your rating at 1000~1200, and at that level the analysis of 1500-ers is good enough.

The computer could (and should) have won the endgame pretty easily.

You don't need a 2000+ player to tell you that you made alot of mistakes.

Ok thanks, I had written a big paragraph and my computer lagged.

okay, here's my highly professional 2000+ analysis (too lazy to read previous posts):

opening: you aren't losing, but it's just generally poor

move 6: d4 is the best move and it's not close at all - protecting the f-pawn and taking space and everything.
after Qe7+(!) you have a bunch of unpleasant choices which all suck. note that Ne2 doesn't protect the f-pawn, Bxf4 and Nxf4 isn't possible because the knight is pinned.

move 8: absolutely no reason not to castle instead

moves 12-18 something happened and seemed like you finished an exchange up (good), then i have no idea what was the thought process that you used to end up losing it.
24 Rd1? 26 Rxd5??? 32 a4??? what the?

anyway i'm pretty sure that someone ~1500 can be more useful than this if he takes the time

So... my most important weakness is my opening? Good I keep it like that, giving my opponents an edge and forcing me to play better. When I' ll get  ~1500 fide rating, I' ll study openings a bit and learn some to boost my rating. It will help me react better in bad positions and when I will come to them in further games, I' ll be ok.

For the castling, I wanted to 0-0-0 because all pieces seemed to point or seemed to will to point kingside.

From 24... I though it was about to take my knight with its and then, after I retake, it eats my rook with its bishop, then I fork its bishop and king and win a piece.

For the strenght of the people that analysis, why do they suggest to look and study GRANDMASTERS annotated games to improve best, then to let your games beeing analyzed by people rated 1500?

I mean... couldn't a 1500 rated player tell me a move is strong or is the strongest or is weak when they are completely wrong because they don't have the complete knowledge of a master?

You know... you always learn things and then learn further that what you learned is wrong or incomplete or that there areexceptions. Isn't a 1500 rated player still in this stage?

Hi tacticop (nice name btw)

1) I suggest learning a book opening for as much as you can remember.  There are great videos on this on YouTube, especially the Chess.com channel.  1. e3 is a very weird opening that White will regret later on in the game.  On the first move, there is nothing stopping White from claiming the center.  You could play against a monkey level opponent or Gary Kasparov and you can still gain an advantage with the first move.  I would suggest 1. e4 or 1.d4. 

2) another good lesson is in 14) Rxh2.  You have an opportunity to take black's valuable Rook on f7 with your knight.  As a rule of thumb, pawns are worth 1 point, knights and bishops are worth 3, Rooks are worth 5, and the queen is worth 8 (the king is the whole game, so I guess he is worth infinite).  It is almost always worth it to trade a piece of lesser value for a piece of greater value.  Your opponent's rook is vulnerable to being traded for lesser pieces all the way through move 17 when it is captured by your queen, (and you've very nicely created a winning position).  What is even better about taking the rook is that you can capture the knight on the very next turn.  (14. Nxf7 Qxf7 15. Rxh2)

3) last bit of advice, in the early part of the game, don't move the same piece twice unless there's a good reason.  Also, castle (to either side) as soon as possible.  Good luck in the future!

@tacticop: No no no do not memorise book openings. They'll be useless if you don't know why you're making the moves you are, and chances are you won't get to play the lines you memorised even 1 in 10 games. Just stick with opening principles at your stage. Heck, I've made it where I am without a single book opening learnt.

Your weakness is hanging material, not really openings. For instance een if 25...Nxd5 26. Rxd5 Bxd5 and where on earth is the knight fork? I don't see any.

You would study grandmaster/master games to learn because those games have very few errors (and even fewer obvious errors) and can show you how chess is meant to be played. However, when you play games, you don't need a grandmaster to tell you "and here you hung a piece, and there a pawn, and created a hole there, and missed your opponent's hanging piece." Such simple things even we patzers can say.

I'd say a 1500 (Blitz) here has learnt to stop dropping stuff most of the time and picked up the rudiments of positional weaknesses. That's enough to give a fairly decent basic analysis of games. The main difference between us and grandmasters is in subtle positional nuances, which is frankly irrelevant when looking at games of lower than (I think) 2000 (Blitz and FIDE).

I would have opened with h3... 

You're welcome.

71. ... Kf2?!

This is stalemate.

Black should play 71. ... Qf3:

That was long.

Mate in 4.

Ok, thanks everyone. So.. what you are saying is that I should stick only to principles and basic theoric knowledge to get better at my level?

Exemple: Castling before move 10 (preferably 7), not move pieces multiple times in opening, not moving my queen to early, connecting my rooks, keeping track of my pieces points and not exchanging unless I win the exchange, even if it leads to a position I like more or something, keeping my king safe and a good pawn structure.