[2] I bet it's here to avoid losing tempo and giving an edge to the development of your opponent.
[3] To avoid getting it chased and then having the choice between loosing it, getting it trapped or needing to move it multiple times to avoid threats and letting the opponent develop a lot of pieces while you only got your queen out.
Ok, thanks everyone. So.. what you are saying is that I should stick only to principles and basic theoric knowledge to get better at my level?
Exemple: Castling before move 10 (preferably 7) [1.1], not move pieces multiple times in opening [2], not moving my queen to early [3], connecting my rooks [1.2], keeping track of my pieces points and not exchanging unless I win the exchange [4], even if it leads to a position I like more or something, keeping my king safe [1.3] and a good pawn structure [5].
Yay for the principles instead of the precise book knowledge.
As for the principles...
First of all, remember : [0] break any of the following rules if you see good reason for it.
Not much to say about [2] and [3], provided you know why they are here. Can you explain the reason behind those rules ?
[1.1] is not a real rule. Actually, it is more like a combination of [1.2] and [1.3]. Castling is only valuable if it makes your king safer. Usually it makes your king safer, but if you are in a position where it would make it worse, then the rule completely collapses (unless tactical reason ofc). [1.2] (connect your rooks) is less important than any of the other rules.
[4] : This might confuse some people here ; in chess, "the exchange" has the very specific meaning of "the advantage of having a rook against a minor piece (knight or bishop)". Let us reformulate your rule to avoid this as : "do not trade pieces unless the material values of the piece you take add up to more than the material values of the piece you lose". Then it becomes true all other things equal - usually trading pieces changes the pawn structure and hence the value relative to the position of the pieces.
[5] : true, but you need to know a "good" pawn structure, and that's not easy. For instance, a pair of doubled pawns can be worth anything between as much as two "sane" pawns and only one pawn. My rule of thumb would be : doubled pawns if isolated (ie no other pawn on an adjacent file) are so weak that they count as a single pawn, non-isolated doubled pawns are as good if not better (it gives you an open file) as standard pawns.