1800s(USCF) Noob or strong?

Sort:
Ziryab
MrEdCollins wrote:



Yea, it's five years old but so far I haven't found anything more recent.  (If I had access to the data I could generate these graphs myself.)  However, I'm sure the overall shape of the curves won't change much, even with the most recent data available.

USCF has the data, even though they do not publish it. Every player's percentile score is listed on his or her rating page. These are updated monthly.

The peak near 700 and the double bell shape is a consequence of the USCF rating most children's events in the nation. Washington and Oregon have their own system, which keeps all but the strongest young players in these states out of the USCF. That's the principal reason that my national percentile is much higher than my state percentile. I'm only in the top 15% of adult players, but when you add children, my ranking is more impressive. 

Xieff

Actually my rating is only 1295. So :P

x-2137697927

Unless your a GM are something close there is always room for improvement and yes 1800,s make mistakes just not as many as a 1500 to 1600 would

x-2137697927

hessmaster if your rating is 9000 that must make mine over 11000Money Mouth

WanderingPuppet

it's unfortunate that some NMs (Noob masters) give up chess shortly after reaching that strength but to play against players of a similar level you often have to play at expensive major open tournaments with the expectation that you are likely not going to win a prize and the few games you get paired against top class competition, while it's a great learning experience, it's not too practical to expect 2200 players to compete too well against 2600 players --- there's only so much you can do to compensate for a lack of theoretical knowledge in every aspect of the game.  And the alternative to play at local clubs isn't always appealing, where a master may score 75-95% against lower rated players.

regarding noob moves... had an amusing double blunder in a G/30 yesterday... [I was Black, we both realized our mistakes immediately after our moves, and my opponent, an 1800 player who was quite shaken by the missed opportunity, blundered a piece 7 moves later.]



Xieff

Whoah whoah whoah! No...I play 40/120 SD/1 d/5s all the time. 

Ziryab
Xieff wrote:

Whoah whoah whoah! No...I play 40/120 SD/1 d/5s all the time. 

Most of the events in my city are game/2 5s, but we've had a couple of those longer controls over the years. 

ponz111

This may be a stupid question but are games with 30 minutes for the game USCF rated?

Ziryab
ponz111 wrote:

This may be a stupid question but are games with 30 minutes for the game USCF rated?

Yes. They are dual rated--standard and quick. game 10 to game 29 is quick, game 30 to game 60 is dual rated. game 61+ is standard.

 

They have recently added a blitz rating category for those below game 10.

MrDamonSmith

Yeah, they're rated. But done as a quick rating. The result might be applied to both standard AND quick though.

TheGreatOogieBoogie

Not noob, but 1800 Fritz rating certainly is:



Xieff
FirebrandX wrote:
Xieff wrote:

Whoah whoah whoah! No...I play 40/120 SD/1 d/5s all the time. 

Where do you live? Just about everywhere I've been only had swiss G/30 events. This is because you can squeeze in 5 rounds in one day, and thus, only have to use building space for one day.

Yeah theres plenty of long ones here. I live in Wisconsin. Some of them are expensive but it is worth it.

ponz111

Of course an 1800 rated player makes lots of mistakes.  

One progresses in chess by first knowing his mistakes and then knowing how to correct them and then try to not repeat them as often.

waffllemaster
FirebrandX wrote:

Wow that's a pretty blatant miss by both sides there, and it looks to be fairly early in the game so time pressure likely wasn't a factor. Even so, those G/30 swiss events were exactly why I gave up OTB USCF chess to begin with. I cannot stand that time control, yet it's just about all one can expect to get in the USA for chess tournaments.

I agree.  IMO it should be an embarrassment to the USCF that G/30 tournaments are dual rated.

waffllemaster
Petrosianic wrote:

it's unfortunate that some NMs (Noob masters) give up chess shortly after reaching that strength but to play against players of a similar level you often have to play at expensive major open tournaments with the expectation that you are likely not going to win a prize and the few games you get paired against top class competition, while it's a great learning experience, it's not too practical to expect 2200 players to compete too well against 2600 players --- there's only so much you can do to compensate for a lack of theoretical knowledge in every aspect of the game.  And the alternative to play at local clubs isn't always appealing, where a master may score 75-95% against lower rated players.

regarding noob moves... had an amusing double blunder in a G/30 yesterday... [I was Black, we both realized our mistakes immediately after our moves, and my opponent, an 1800 player who was quite shaken by the missed opportunity, blundered a piece 7 moves later.]

Yes, this is a good example.  This isn't tournament chess, this is speed chess.  And how many other games feature players with less than 10 minutes left entering the endgame?  It's not even a full game of chess, it's ridiculous that these games are rated by the USCF.

I guess some states are full of G/30 masters?  That thought makes me laugh.  They beat some talented kids in speed games and quit with a master title... wow.

netzach

Noob.

(actually everything below 1900 USCF or FIDE is that :)

Ziryab
netzach wrote:

Noob.

(actually everything below 1900 USCF or FIDE is that :)

So, I wasn't a noob until a couple of bad moves caused my USCF rating to drop to 1899, and now I am a noob again.

netzach

It's very hurtful.

WanderingPuppet
harryz wrote:
Petrosianic wrote:

it's unfortunate that some NMs (Noob masters)

You are an NM yourself

yes it was self-deprecation. Innocent  Of my 887 regular rated games, the example i showed was my earliest blunder of a piece, and although basic tactical themes are well within my ability to detect, it's easy for me to forget occasionally how pieces can move.  i make blunders when i do not think things through.  i like to play creatively and play new and complicated positions and when trying to be too clever i have made mistakes.  

to define a player's strengths/weaknesses, i think you have to look at their training more than their title and even more than their games.  ok, the moves are the raw data [output], but u have to know a person's lines of thought before u can understand them.  it's more than the method that one is thinking at one move at one game, but how that changes in each situation.  better players often have more resources to draw from.  but the ultimate goals in any position are usually quite simple, a lot of it is getting your priorities correct in a position, a product of preparation and your work at the board.  [apologies for the rant, the subjective meanderings of a tired mind Innocent .]

i like long controls when it is my turn... when it is my opponent's turn, i wish they would hurry up!  Wink  use that time for strategy, a few calculations if forcing lines, or good time to see friends' games.

Ziryab
Petrosianic wrote:
[snip] although basic tactical themes are well within my ability to detect, it's easy for me to forget occasionally how pieces can move.  i make blunders when i do not think things through.  i like to play creatively and play new and complicated positions and when trying to be too clever i have made mistakes.  

 

I have exactly the same problem, though a few hundred points lower. I was the victim of a 500 point upset in my last OTB tournament because I was concentrating on how to finish off my opponent and overlooked for one move a threat that I had examined each of the previous four or five moves, starting before it was a palpable threat.