advice for discouraged beginner

i thought the question what whether YOU knew who i was, as you repeated claimed in so many different desperate ways.

so why did you come back if you were expecting to be banned or reported or blood-sacrificed or whatever it is you feel will be done to you here?

Neither of our (recent) past accounts were banned (@idilis and llama). We closed them because we wanted to. You on the other hand... heh.

so now i cheat as well?

the mods took down my profile info, not me.  no secret there.  but you were not just speaking on the forums - you reported it.  little wonder you're so paranoid about being reported.

https://www.chess.com/forum/view/off-topic/so-im-a-trumpist-70376181

so again, what's my other account and where have i cheated?

glad this site is giving you the therapy you need.

btw, there is now this :-)

https://support.chess.com/article/1328-what-kind-of-avatars-are-allowed

posted 1 month after @alczervik's topic on my avatar

https://www.chess.com/forum/view/off-topic/idilis-avatar-70455843

confirmation of my current account?  where's the alt? where's the cheating?

Not anymore, they allow people to have 2 if they request it... so you can't ride that horse quite as hard anymore.

Yeah, they let anyone do it now, but you have to ask, I think they still close accounts if you just randomly make a bunch.

https://support.chess.com/article/596-can-i-have-multiple-accounts

you have no idea as usual.

point to me where?   are you just living in your own delusional bubble?

your benefit of doubt definitely is greatly treasured here.  as are your opinions.

Yeah, you still don't remember correctly. I wrote a program that simulated new players joining an established rating ecosystem because I wanted to understand how the chess boom may or may not affect the average rating or cause rating inflation/deflation... maybe you don't understand that this was a small program that ran on my computer and had nothing to do with any website, including chess.com.

It's not as much fun when the trolling is obvious. I think it would have been better to repeat something about how I open lots of accounts every year and I do this to break the rules because I'm such a nasty cheater.

the sad part is, i don't think he's trolling.  just needs more therapy.

By the way, the interesting thing was the average can go up, down, or stay the same, and inflation can happen, not happen, or there can be deflation.

The math does its best to preserve a point to skill ratio, in other words the people who come up with rating systems do their best to minimize any inflation / deflation effect. This also means the average rating changes in just the way you might expect i.e. if the new players are better than the current average, then the average goes up, if they're worse then the average goes down.

Or smoke some grass and do some yoga and chill out... or maybe... "coolout"

An underrated comment is the one on candidate moves. When I looked to the latest (at the time of writing) game, https://www.chess.com/game/live/64258344225?username=yankeesfan15,  on move 6 you move a pawn to a square where it is attacked twice but defended only once. This should be checked when considering the move.

Having established that there are no direct threats or forcing moves, at this point one should look to continue development. Pawn to b6 is the first candidate move that comes to mind to me (to get the bishop out). The other three that I'd consider are Be7 (in order to castle) and Nc6 (to attack d4) and Nf5 (also to attack d4 and prepare pawn to d5). But wait a minute, Nc6 can be followed by pawn to d5. Black then can't take on d5 because of... a pin! There you have your tactical pattern. And Nf5 violates the principle of moving the knight twice, but might still be ok. White will, however, be able to defend the pawn with Nf3 'with tempo', because it's a move they likely want to do anyway. Having checked that, I'd just go for pawn to b6 or Be7 (in your case I'd recommend Be7 in order to castle quickly).

All this analysis can be done without an engine, and even during the game. Avoiding clear mistakes like hanging pieces is obviously a first step in eliminating bad candidate moves, but the above 'mini analysis' shows that positional considerations and developing tactical pattern recognition can also be helpful, even for beginners.

An unpopular opinion is that watching master games, even if superficially (for example, from agadmator's YouTube channel), can be useful. It can help develop some kind of pattern recognition and give an idea of what good play looks like.

Maybe watch a youtube video, compete in tournaments...

I also recommend playing rapid more than blitz/bullet because you don't struggle in time.

Watch for threats, what opponent want to do or plan, play solidly and don't play strange moves when your opponent does.

You can use arrows and shades to compute/calculate/plan on the board during a play. 

For Laptop/PC/Desktop, usually is right click to shade and right click on the tile and hold down until to another tile.

The videos by Chess Talk and Chess Vibes might help.

It hasn't stopped me from playing yet but it is discouraging. I don't share your definition of cheating. I just think smurfing is lame and pathetic, but again I don't let it bother me too much. All said and done the player is simply better than I am, but I wouldn't go so far as to say cheating. They might be but if so it's relatively undetectable. I recently lost two games to a person whose account started in Late July and they are 36/2/2 in daily and 6/0/0 in daily 360. It's a free account as you might expect. And they're accuracy is just good enough to win all the time. I see that their first game was a loss to an 1100 player back in Late July so they clearly have worked on their game a lot since then.

I would also suggest that you start playing daily games of 2 or 3 days. It's kind of hard to learn how to play the game in Rapid. I'm still working on getting a higher rating and I don't even play rapid games, yet.