Where is the rest of the game?
It looks like 7 Bc4 is the normal move in the Master Game database. It would probably help to stop d5.
Where is the rest of the game?
It looks like 7 Bc4 is the normal move in the Master Game database. It would probably help to stop d5.
1) You're the one who traded queens. This isn't my main complaint, but I'm just saying.
2) The move 8...d5 is indeed a good move. In many Sicilians and Ruys it's an instant equalizer... and there's my biggest complaint. If you want to go all out for a win as black, you can't be afraid of letting your opponent get a good position. After d6 on move 7 or 8 the game probably wouldn't end in a draw.
3) Ok, and now I'll answer your question. In games where you're going all out for a win, I wouldn't suggest something as theoretical as 2...g6 (unless you're really confident in your theory).
And part of knowing theory well is understanding the moves top GMs play, and moves recommended by the engine, or moves recommended statistics, should sometimes be avoided... because those moves (especially as black) are attempting to equalize. That's why their stats are good and why top GMs play them... but you vs a 1500 shouldn't necessarily play that way.
knowing when to play slightly inferior moves (or equal but different moves) to maximize your chances against weaker opposition is an art in itself. your line simplified the position, with you have two isolated pawns in the queenside. while you can stir the pot a little if you get an e5-f5 combo going and fighting for space, its not the ideal position to fight for a win.
I want a specific line for black that complicates the position without giving too much advantage to my opponent. And yes I am very confident in my theory.
After move 12, you have a 3 vs 2 Q-side Pawn majority and his 2 Pawns are both isolated.
So I don't agree that "the game was eventually drawn, of course..."
There are still some things you could go after like controlling the d-file after O-O-O then threatening d8 with your R's and dark-squared B rather than move your c and b Pawns - though moving one may have become necessary.
I want a specific line for black that complicates the position without giving too much advantage to my opponent. And yes I am very confident in my theory.
Then for sure it's d6 instead of d5.
The lines get crazy long, and the position gets crazy complicated. I heard Seirawan doing live commentary of a game once and mentioning a "well known" line that ended after move 30... of course he meant well known to those super GMs.
(I think the engine whines about d6 at first, but even top 10 players have played that position as black, so don't worry about it.)
Although IIRC in those cases it's better to delay 0-0, and sometimes keep your king in the center for quite a long time... I don't play this stuff so I'm just going by what I remember seeing in GM games.
It looks like 7 Bc4 is the normal move in the Master Game database. It would probably help to stop d5.
After move 12, you have a 3 vs 2 Q-side Pawn majority and his 2 Pawns are both isolated.
If you guys read the OP you'd know he was black, even though he messed up and put "me" for white in the game.
I was one of the top player in the Continental Class Championship's B section. On the first round, I played a 1590 and I was a 1761. I had black, and wanted to win so I pulled out the ultra sharp Sicilica. My opponent prepared a Yugoslav, and I thwarted his intentions with a counter in the center, d5. But then, my opponent started trading all the pieces and offered me draws like crazy, nearly every move. I refused all of them, but my opponent forced a totally drawn rook ending, 4 vs 3 and outside passer for opponent. I even almost lost due to overpushing, but my opponent offered a draw in a theoretically won rook endgame! I could almost see the Lucena for him, right on the board, and he still wanted a draw. I accepted, of course. I am disgusted with Davids totally playing for draws like this.
The game was eventually drawn, of course. Any advice to help combat drawmongers?