Calculating true material values

Hi wonderful forum folks!  I could use some input here if you would be so kind ...

The value of a pawn or piece depends upon more than its point value.  It also depends upon its position and tactical importance in a game.  I've set up a specific (or very similar) config that I run into frequently and would like a critique of my calculation thinking.  White (me) would play c4.  Why?  And then what follows?

My thinking is:

If Knight takes d5 pawn then c4 pawn will take the Knight.  Then the Queen will take that pawn.  SO ...I will have lost two pawns (2 points) whereas black will have lost a Knight (3 points) AND ... Queen will be left in the middle of the board (d5) fully exposed which always gives me tempo in chasing her (one of my funnest activities). 

There are so many times in a game where various calculations are very close.  I make the wrong choices far too often and I do NOT like uncertainty.  My current focus is on improving my calculation decisions.  Your perspectives would be appreciated!

If you'd have played something differently, I appreciate that as well but my focus here is how I evaluate positions in both puzzles and games.  I misjudge repeatedly.  

What exactly is the question here, my friend? You may be falling into the trap where you assume that things are forced when they're not; in this case, why would your opponent choose to take the d-pawn?

This position is good for white. I'm presuming it arose from a Scandinavian (1.e4 d5 2. exd5...) but you're only in this position because your opponent didn't play Qxd5 which is the main move in the Scandinavian.

Black can either try and undermine your centre immediately, or find another way to develop a piece, but they'll struggle to regain the pawn that you've captured immediately.

US Chess MSA - Member Details (General)

I don't know, but here's an interesting cheater! ^^

Search him up, it's insightful.

@DoYouLikeCurry is right and in such a situation, c6 is essential to amplify the development of the Black and try not to leave the center to the White. However, there is no perfect solution at the beginning of the game, as it also involves affinity, construction, setting up a defense against an opening, and the game will gradually unfold. Chess is also a lesson in patience and small adjustments that gradually guide the game.

♟

"A player can sometimes afford the luxury of an inaccurate move, or even a definite error, in the opening or middlegame without necessarily obtaining a lost position. In the endgame ... an error can be decisive, and we are rarely presented with a second chance."

- Paul Keres

Indeed, it is very useful to know when a piece is absolutely monstrous, versus when its useless or even a liability. Minor pieces in particular, when well-placed, can technically be worth a lot more than just three points.

For example:

In this position, I had the white pieces. The material is equal, but take a look at that knight! Not only is it breathing down the black king's neck, but it's also severely restricting Black's position.

Ultimately, the knight not only survived the whole game, but it also helped to checkmate the black king after the white rooks sneaked in on the h-file and busted the door (h-pawn) down. Because of how much trouble the knight caused for Black, you could reasonably argue that it was worth just as much as a rook — if not more.

is this a IP grabbing link cuz it lowkey feels that way, i wouldnt trust this link without more context

Also black would play "b5!" The best move. It challenges your center, white is worse here btw.

Don't play c4 in the Scandinavian. If you want to keep the pawn, challenge black with Bb5+ instead. I just play Nc3 lol

dude it's the old uscf, hover over the link

im disappointed that you would think that

pluh

I'm sorry it's taken so long to get back to everyone ... this is difficult for me to articulate and think through and I want to handle it properly. I found a key ingredient today which should help me express it here. Thank you all so much! I'll be back!!