I really need help with finding threats in my opponent's moves and with avoiding blunders and unnecessary moves.
Can't seem to break 850... Need help.
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I found some remaining things :
1. The concept of Knight's outpost.
In the first game, when White played 11.f4, an outpost was made on d3. You could have placed knight there and made a big trouble to white.(It controls a lot of space in white's territory.) It's literally the perfect outpost, as white didn't have any minor piece to trade for Knight. Also, after knight moved, you can place your bishop on d5 so it could take a long diagonal.
2. Pushing all of your pawns forward to take space is bad. e pawn and d pawn (sometimes c pawn and f pawn)'s role is taking the center in opening, but pawns on the side do not increase the center control. Especially pawns in front of king after castling play a role as a soid shield for king, so it is better not to move them if there are no threats. If your pawns in front of king are traded, your king safety will be damaged, allowing opportunities for tactics.
3. Queen endgame.
If you have a queen in the endgame, you should keep looking for opportunities to make a fork with endless check. Queen is much stronger in such opened position. In the first game, you had chance of 50...Qg3+, 52...Qe5+, 55...Qxa8, 57...Qe4+, winning a rook.
This might be slightly different with what you want, but I hope this view helps.
Blunder check before you move.
Develop all your pieces and do some puzzle daily Start to calculate and watch the board for your position to improve that's all
Thank you for your assistance 
Apr 14, 2024
0
#7
From your two games there is a lot of opening theory that you don't yet know.
In the first game, 3...a6 is missed, and 3...e5 or many other moves would have been much better then 3...Nf6. In the second game you lose all your opening advantage on the 3rd move.
Openings are not the most important thing at this level, but it is still a good idea to learn all the main openings up to move 5 or so. This will give you a good foundation to build on in the future when you are 1000+. Below 1000 level quite a lot of games can be won in 10 moves or less just by punishing your opponent's opening mistakes.
It looks like you have only been playing chess for a few months so it is very important to be patient and appreciate that it can take a long time to get really good at this game. Some of us here have been playing it for 10, 20, 30 or more years, and are still gradually improving.
Yes I need a lot of help with taking positional initiative and weighing trades vs declinations
I am now 1026 It is nice to look back on my 700-800 days
3 days ago
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#10
ZaydenM10 wrote:
I am now 1026 It is nice to look back on my 700-800 days
As I inch very close to 1200, I definitely feel this. For me, it's both funny and annoying to look at some of my older games and get very frustrated by my past self averaging 2-3 hanging pieces per game, falling for obvious traps and constantly missing incredibly obvious moves that would have won instantly 💀
3 days ago
0
#11
Fr3nchToastCrunch wrote:
ZaydenM10 wrote:
I am now 1026 It is nice to look back on my 700-800 days
As I inch very close to 1200, I definitely feel this. For me, it's both funny and annoying to look at some of my older games and get very frustrated by my past self averaging 2-3 hanging pieces per game, falling for obvious traps and constantly missing incredibly obvious moves that would have won instantly 💀
Same
I try and try and try, but I cannot seem to grasp the master concepts of chess. I am at 850 on rapid, but I can't seem to get to 900 just yet. I know space advantage techniques, opening theory, pretty much the majority of basic things. I need assistance with learning the few remaining things I can't seem to master. I will leave a sample of some of my games below. I am the victor in both games, so I wanted you all to see where my strengths lie.