First OTB prep advice

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dannyhume

Hi all.  I want to play in my 1st OTB tournament this fall (in 4-5 months). I currently practice 25-45 minutes daily, mostly tactics and a little basic endgames (Pandolfini's books and Silman's <1400 chapters).  

1. But how much time to devote to openings (if any)?  Is it a good idea to nix all openings and just "see" how I fare at my first OTB tourney with absolutely zero opening prep?  Would the extra "tactics" practice make up for not having a repertoire?  When I wasn't planning on an OTB tourney, I was happy to nix openings as most stronger players seem to advise for my level, but now that I plan to play in an actual OTB tourney, I am not so sure if the same advice applies.

2. What section should a rookie compete?  U1200?  U2000?  "Open"?  I hear that players can compete in a lower class section (e.g. 1800's playing in a U1400 section)...then I am really hosed, aren't I?!

I perused other threads on this topic and it seemed most of the people asking for tourney prep advice were either: a) stronger players; b) had their tournament upcoming very soon (couple weeks or days); and/or c) were referring to very specifics of immediate pre-tournament prep (food, sleep, exercise, psychology in the night/minutes before).  

Thanks in advance for the advice (or for morphing this into a bizarre unrelated thread).   

brianb42

The prep that helped me the most was writing down my moves in all my games and using a clock. Make it so it becomes second nature. That way you can concentrate on just chess.  Having to concentrate on remembering to hit the clock and write moves down cost me a few games in my first tournament.

dannyhume

Thanks!  That's very practical...hadn't really considered that angle.  

jonswin

Is it a longplay or rapidplay tourney? The advice about practice with a clock is good - if you haven't played with one before you will spend more time worrying about it than you will concentrating on the game.

As for opening repertoire, I personally have never studied the openings and it hasn't held me back until I started playing good players (FIDE rated >2000). It's much better to just play what seems natural to you at the time & you will get a feel for what sort of positions you do well in and where you struggle.

Then you can go over your games (regardless of the result) and decide whether the position you had after 10-15 moves or so was OK, and study those particular openings where you found yourself worse off to find an improvement.

Tactics & endgames will do you much more good at this stage than studying a pet opening that you might not get to play.

As for which section to enter, go for the lowest one to start with. If you find you are placing highly, that is the time to move up to a higher section to improve. It's a gradual process - you will learn best from people who are just slightly better than yourself, as the concepts behind their moves will be more immediately understandable and therefore memorable.

Hope this helps :)

waffllemaster

4-5 months is a long time!  Are there any opening moves you don't like facing?  Or any lines that make you uncomfortable?  If so it would be good to focus on those.

Tactics and endgame work are very good choices IMO.  However the #1 important prep would be playing games.  Now 4-5 months may be too long to swear off blitz completely, but lets say for the last 3-4 weeks play nothing below G/15.

In your online games use only the openings you're planning to use at the tournament to get an idea of what you might be uncomfortable with.  This should be your opening prep, I don't recommend "booking up" by memorizing lots of variations.

pawnzischeme

No openings, just develop.

Clock and recording your moves are biggest changes/obstacles.

Develop your pieces and tactics x 3.

OTB is the best.

dannyhume

Thanks jonswin, all helpful advice. So you think even the endgames are helpful for a newb OTB player?

wafflemaster, I don't know which openings I don't like playing against.  I don't play enough chess these days since I blunder-lose against any opening. 

I typically open 1.e4 and answer 1.e4 with 1...e5 and 1.d4 or c4 with ...Nf3.  But beyond move 3, I really don't have any opening memorized.

I guess I have to play more games online, but then I feel I am neglecting the simple basics.

waffllemaster
dannyhume wrote:

Thanks jonswin, all helpful advice. So you think even the endgames are helpful for a newb OTB player?

wafflemaster, I don't know which openings I don't like playing against.  I don't play enough chess these days since I blunder-lose against any opening. 

I typically open 1.e4 and answer 1.e4 with 1...e5 and 1.d4 or c4 with ...Nf3.  But beyond move 3, I really don't have any opening memorized.

I guess I have to play more games online, but then I feel I am neglecting the simple basics.


I myself like the idea of shutting myself in a room with a book and emerging a better player, no games needed.  But the truth is below, say, the master level this isn't your best bet.  Experience is huge.  So even if it's just a handful of games, try to work it into your routine.  And like jonswin said be sure to look at them after they're over.  At what point were you uncomfortable with your position and what does a database/engine recommend instead?

If you played 3 games a day for 4 months that's something like 360 potential personalized lessons as long as you look back each time to find a mistake and try to remember that mistake for the next game (as in don't repeat it ;)

dannyhume

Once I am out of the book (usually very early), I am uncomfortable, but I become more comfortable when I think my opponent is also out of the book.

I once used the 2500-level chess.com analysis for a dozen or so of my games against opponents within 200 points of me, and it was interesting.  

Against similar-rated opponents, my record was nearly even (as it should be), but the computer said I made a ton more "inaccuracies" (opening?) per game.  I made nearly 5 "inaccuracies" per game versus my opponents who made...[still blows my mind]...ZERO inaccuracies and they were around my rating!!  

My "mistakes" plus "blunders" were about equivalent to my opponents, except that I made  fewer "blunders" but more "mistakes" (what is a mistake if it is not a blunder?).  I also made my first mistake on average 3 moves earlier than my opponents.

So to me, this meant that tactics beyond the opening was the ONLY thing keeping my rating where it is instead of dropping it to the triple digits, given the enormous "inaccuracy" and greater number of "mistakes" I make when playing people around my level.

The extent of my "inaccuracies" made me think that I should drill an opening at least through move 8 or so.  Plus you read some of the masters on this site, NM Reb comes to mind, who say that opening is more important than endgame through FIDE 1900 (USCF class A and maybe expert; hope I am not misquoting Reb...I think he is the one who tends to downplay lower-level amateurs studying the basic endgames except overkill mates).   

waffllemaster

I'm not a very booked player by any means.  I likely leave book first in the majority of my OTB games.  But because I'm at the sub-master level my opponent can't make use of the quarter of a pawn difference it may make.  Or perhaps it's as much as half a pawn, but only if the next 6 moves are "best"

Also notice there's no point in even getting your pet line out to move 15 with a handy advantage if you don't understand the middlegame that arises (or are poor at tactics) because on move 16 you can easily surrender the total advantage to make it equal again.

So again playing games is important :)

dannyhume

Clock-stopping/recording moves, Tactics, and Endgames: seems everyone is in favor.

Openings: a little less clear, but seems like only minimal dedicated time should be devoted.  Although I have to admit that it does make me nervous not to study much openings...on this website it is fun to play wacky aggressive moves since you can always immediately play a new game if you lose, but for a tourney I am thinking that even low-rated players will be prepped well and not try to play as "unsoundly" as I am used to my opponents playing on this site.   

Strategy: I did get a strong recommendation from another user to read/study My System and/or Silman HTRYC 4th ed, even if I don't understand them now (understanding will improve more with re-reads/experience, etc.), and to not go overboard with just tactical study. 

dannyhume
AnthonyCG wrote:

Capablanca was very vocal about learning the endgame first.


Yes he was, but was he referring to people like me (closer to the level of a "beginner" in the true sense) or "relative" beginners in the sense that they are strong amateurs but would get crushed by a "weak" master?

Capa could nearly beat masters at the age of 4, so I have to at least question some of his advice when it means applying that advice to players who are worse than he was as a toddler.

Ben_Dubuque

I drill about 5 "regular" openings per color

For white

  1. the English Reversed sicillian 4 knights variation
  2. Italian game
  3. Queens Gambit
  4. Polish Opening
  5. Dragon variation of the sicillian

Black

  1. Open game
  2. Alekhine's defence
  3. French Defence
  4. English Symetrical
  5. Sicillian

Most of these i only play Otb or if i do play them online, I play them about 5 moves in then break theory, thats the best way in my opinion to study openings, play a large amount 5 or so moves in then break theory

NimzoRoy

CHESS OPENING PRINCIPLES by SIX FAMOUS GRANDMASTERS

Lasker's rules for the opening (from Common Sense In Chess)

1. Do not move any pawns in the opening of a game but the King and Queen pawns.

2. Do not move any piece twice in the opening, but put it at once on the right square.

3. Bring out your knights before developing your bishops, especially the Queen's Bishop.

4. Do not pin the adverse King Knight (ie. by Bg5) before your opponent has castled

GM Reuben Fine on the opening:

1. In the initial position White, because of the extra move, has a slight advantage. Consequently:

2. White's problem in the opening is to secure the better position, while...

3. Black's problem is to secure equality.

Fine's rules for the opening

1. Open with either the e-pawn or the d-pawn.

2. Wherever possible, make a good developing move which threatens something or adds to the pressure on the centre.

3. Develop knights before bishops.

4. Pick the most suitable square for a piece and develop it there once and for all.

5. Make one or two pawn moves in the opening, not more.

6. Do not bring your queen out too early. 7. Castle as soon as possible, preferably on the king's side.

8. Play to get control of the centre. 9. Always try to maintain at least one pawn in the centre.

10. Do not sacrifice without a clear and adequate reason, eg.:

* it secures a tangible advantage in development * it deflects the opponent's queen

* it prevents the opponent from castling * it enables a strong attack to be developed

Fine's two last questions to be asked before a move is made:

* How does it affect the centre? * How does it fit in with the development of my other pieces and pawns?

 

Nimzovitch's Seven Axioms (from My System)

* Development is to be understood as the strategic advance of the troops toward the frontier line (the line between the fourth and fifth ranks).

* A pawn move must not in itself be regarded as a devloping move, but merely as an aid to development.

* To be ahead in development is the ideal to be aimed for.

* Exchange with resulting gain of tempo.

* Liquidation, with consequent development or disembarrassment.

* The pawn centre must be mobile.

* There is no time for pawn hunting in the opening, except for centre pawns.

Suetin's four principles for advanced players

* The fight for control of the centre * The striving for the quickest and most active development.

* The creation of conditions that permit early castling.

* The formation of an advantageous pawn structure

GM Hort's 13 rules for all players

* Take advantage of every tempo. * Develop flexibly!

* Do not make pawn moves without careful planning.

* Begin the game with a centre pawn, and develop the minor pieces so that they influence the centre.

* Develop harmoniously! Play with all your pieces

* Do not make aimless moves. Each move must be part of a definite plan.

* Do not be eager for material gain. The fight for time is much more important than the fight for material, especially in open positions.

* A weakening of your own pawns may be accepted only if it is compensated by a more active placement of your pieces.

* With the help of your pawns, try to get an advantage in space and weaken your opponent's pawn position.

* Do not obstruct your pawns by grouping your pieces directly in front of them; pawns and pieces must work together.

* During the first few moves, pay special attention to the vulnerable KB2 square on both sides.

* Remember that the poor placement of even a single piece may destroy the coordination of the other pieces.

* With White, exploit the advantage of having the first move and try to gain the initiative. With Black, try to organize counterplay.

GM Portisch on forming a repertoire:

"Your only task in the opening is to reach a playable middlegame."

SOURCE: http://exeterchessclub.org.uk/content/ten-rules-opening

MEMORIZE THE FOLLOWING ASAP!! THEY APPLY TO OPENINGS & MIDDLEGAMES TOO!

GM Fine's 15 Basic Endgame Rules:

1. Doubled, isolated and blockaded Pawns are weak: Avoid them!
2. Passed Pawns should be advanced as rapidly as possible.
3. If you are one or two Pawns ahead, exchange pieces but not Pawns.
4. If you are one or two Pawns behind, exchange Pawns but not pieces.
5. If you have an advantage, do not leave all the Pawns on one side.
6. If you are one Pawn ahead, in 99 cases out of 100 the game is drawn if there are Pawns on only one side of the board.
7. The easiest endings to win are pure Pawn endings.
8. The easiest endings to draw are those with Bishops of opposite colors.
9. The King is a strong piece: Use it!
10. Do not place your Pawns on the color of your Bishop.
11. Bishops are better than Knights in all except blocked Pawn positions.
12. Two Bishops vs. Bishop and Knight constitute a tangible advantage.
13. Passed Pawns should be blockaded by the King; the only piece which is not harmed by watching a Pawn is the Knight.
14. A rook on the seventh rank is sufficient compensation for a Pawn.
15. Rooks belong behind passed Pawns.


 

GhostNight

You had alot of constructive advise, trying not to fill you with too much too fast, so will point out two hopefully helpful comments. looking at you games with willsw4, early mistakes are being made by both sides, neither side is  sure what do do with pawn structure, You created pockets a Knight could jump into and you cannot  chase it away with another pawn. Try to maintain pawn chains when moving or taking the enemies piece.

   When using a book, you can go to one of yourold live games and click to the starting position, and then start playing your moves from the book on the screen , and you can go back and  forward and not lose your place. Another words your using one of your old games to play a new one on!   Ok I said two but this is a easy one do not stick your queen out early in the game, it becomes a huge target, and you will lose developing your pieces by having to move your Q each time a minor piece is attacking it! OK look at the opening moves section of this forum, it has   best move and alternative best move for each color responce. I often use it when I play on line games, it is quite a helpful tool and soon the best choices will be mentally installed.  Being a diamond, you can go deeper into the opening then free=bes can check it out!!! HTH

One last point, Did I say two,lolo Maybe some  one else stronger then me, but I am willing to play a few gamws with you using on line chess, but meeting there at the same time and playing a game out to the end and making comments when you make an obvious weakening move. Not so much making a blunder, but poor moves!  

Lucidish_Lux

Play with a clock, at the time control the tournament will be using, as well as just some general practice getting used to it. If it's a game/45 tournament, you can play some blitz games with the clock to get used to it, but also play at least a few in g/45. This helps you get used to how much time you have during the game so you have a feel for it, and can manage your time better. You'll find you manage it very poorly the first time you play at a new time control, either by not using it when you need to, or getting into early time pressure. 

I also agree about getting used to writing down your moves. It's these kinds of little things that throw people off. Also be aware that you will be tired at the tournament. Games, especially under pressure, take a lot of energy. Don't worry about it, but don't be surprised. 

I would say for openings, decide whether you want to play e4 or d4, and then play some games that way. Don't study 12 moves of theory, for a start because you may not understand much of it, and also, your 1200 opponent won't play theory that long. If you want to know some concrete lines, I'd say no more than 5 or 6 moves, max. You just don't need it.

You could ask a stronger player to go over some theory with you, but the purpose wouldn't be for you to memorize it, just get the feel for what kind of moves are played, and the motivation behind the moves. As long as you don't blunder a piece, in the Under 1200 section, no one is going to win the game in the opening. Get to the midgame, control the center, give your pieces something to do, go from there.

Let me put it this way: Every game in the U1200 section will be won or lost based on tactics or tactical blunders. All these things about playing e4 and getting used to it, playing with a clock, etc, are to make it easier for you to not blunder. Being more familiar with a position you might get from the opening you are going to play means that you've seen it before, and not everything on the board is foreign to you. Getting used to the clock means that you can use your time wisely, taking your time when you need to to play a good move, and not getting yourself into time pressure later when you won't have time to make a good move. 

2. A player can only compete in a section if his rating is within that section. A 1300 can play in a U1400, or U1600, or open, but not U1200. You won't have any 1800s ruining your section. 

diags

@dannyhume - I get the feeling you are making a giant psychological blunder.  Given your lack of experience, then no matter what great advice you get here, it will only increase your anxiety.  You will be a nervous wreck in your tournament if you don't get some practice at actual OTB play.  Find a local playing venue, like a USCF affiliate club, and go play rated games with a clock.  The best way to prepare is by doing.

Your opening prep should based around avoiding sharp, tactical lines where you have to worry about getting caught in some trap.  For your first time, just try to survive and get a normal position.  For example, you might try 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Nc3 Nf6.  The "Four Knights Game" is solid, sound, and slightly off the beaten path.  Chances are, at your level, both players will be thinking on their own by move 4.  Look for openings that fit the same description for other responses to 1.e4.  Spend a day working this out with an experienced player, and then leave it at that.  Don't spend any more time on your openings until after the tournament.

I suggest using ChessTempo.com to train your tactics.  The puzzles there are vastly superior to Chess.com Tactics Trainer.

dannyhume
naughtybishop wrote:

@dannyhume - I get the feeling you are making a giant psychological blunder.  Given your lack of experience, then no matter what great advice you get here, it will only increase your anxiety.  You will be a nervous wreck in your tournament if you don't get some practice at actual OTB play.  Find a local playing venue, like a USCF affiliate club, and go play rated games with a clock.  The best way to prepare is by doing.

Your opening prep should based around avoiding sharp, tactical lines where you have to worry about getting caught in some trap.  For your first time, just try to survive and get a normal position.  For example, you might try 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.Nc3 Nf6.  The "Four Knights Game" is solid, sound, and slightly off the beaten path.  Chances are, at your level, both players will be thinking on their own by move 4.  Look for openings that fit the same description for other responses to 1.e4.  Spend a day working this out with an experienced player, and then leave it at that.  Don't spend any more time on your openings until after the tournament.

I suggest using ChessTempo.com to train your tactics.  The puzzles there are vastly superior to Chess.com Tactics Trainer.


A new post, awesome thanks! 

Openings: The openings I plan to use (black and white) are supposedly sound and good for beginners, but I only know them cold through move 3, so it's a relief to hear you say that games at my level will often leave the book by move 4.

Tactics: I like the ability to customize problem sets on Tempo, but I mostly do the random problem-solving at/around my level.  Since both sites use a GM+ level strength engine to either find or create these problems, why are Tempo's tactics better than this site's tactics? 

Playing: Nobody I know plays chess OTB. The nearest chess club is in a big city 2 hours from me, so I may have to visit that place sometime when I have a few days off.   Although I don't want to lose, I am not that worried about losing every game in my first or even first few tournaments...just looking for the experience and will adjust my study depending on my percieved weaknesses in the OTB setting once I feel somewhat adjusted to "clock" and "recording". 

What if I forget studying openings entirely and just blitz through thousands of tactics for a few more months just to see what would happen in the OTB tourney with no opening knowledge? 

shoop2

-I highly recommend playing some sort of small quad, g/30 tournament, etc. if possible before going to a major event.  It'll help give you a sense of where you stand ratings-wise and get you some experience with OTB play before you commit more time and money to a larger event.

-For openings, it's entirely a matter of personal comfort.  You should study until you're comfortable with the positions you can reach from memory in your online live chess games.  For me, that means knowing 10+ moves in my mainlines, but I have friends who know 3-4 moves and are equally happy.

dannyhume
uhohspaghettio wrote:

ALRIGHT LISTEN UP: YOU NEED TO GET OUT THERE AND HAVE A REAL GO AT THIS ******. GIVE HIM A KNIGHT DOWN THE LEFT, GIVE HIM A ROOK DOWN THE RIGHT, BAM, BAM, GUY WON'T KNOW WHAT HIT HIM. YOU CAN BEAT THIS MOFO BUT YOU NEED TO FOCUS AND GIVE IT ALL YOU'VE GOT. THAT GUY IS A PUSSY, LOOK AT THAT FOOL, YOU CAN BEAT HIM. SHOW ME THAT FIGHTING SPIRIT, FOR ME, FOR EVERYONE YOU LOVE, FOR ALL YOU'VE DEDICATED TO THIS SPORT, BUT MOST OF ALL FOR YOURSELF. YOU CAN DO IT, GRRR!!!!


...IIIISSSSSCCCHHHUK!!!!

No, he doesn't have that win-or-die mentality you are advocating.  

Lots of interesting "indirect" advice on playing OTB ranging from clocks, recording moves, playing real games to simulate the experience before living it, relaxation, and of course killer psycho(patho?)logy.  

I didn't realize there was a whole world of playing chess that goes beyond tactics, strategy, endgames, and opening (or as my brain sees i...de la Maza/Tactics Trainer, Silman/Chess Mentor, Pandolfini, and memorizing without understanding).