Help - Oxidation/White Residue Problems on Bud Rosewood Chess Pieces
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May 23, 2016
0
#2
If they use a 'drying oil' , like tung oil, walnut oil or jojoba, etc, instead of a lacquer or similar, the excess oil will do that as it cures on the surface.. If that's the case, just keep rubbing it off and eventually it will stop.
May 24, 2016
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#3
I talked with Josh from HOS ... He said they also had some of these oxidation problem sets - they suggest get clear paste-wax. It goes on as a paste, very thin. Let dry. Buff to shine in 15 mins. It forms a barrier between the surface and atmosphere. Works perfect. It drys hard with no oils.
May 24, 2016
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#4
Thanks for the reply blastforme ... Would have tried that - but took actions before your reply. 🙂
Apr 5, 2017
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#5
Update:
I believe I have found a nice solution: I am using Rust-Oleum Triple Thick Glaze which you can get at a local Lowes or Home Depot store, and it will fix the issue permanently. (From reading on the internet, I believe the more expensive comparable Krylon product may be sprayed on with less of a tendency to run, or form drips. But I was fine with this product.) This product is not a paint, and therefore should not be sprayed onto the pieces as a paint. Thinking that you should back up and use a fine-spray-mist-with-several-coats idea is not going to deliver a pleasing, smoothly-finished result. Think of this product as being a type of shellac, lacquer or varnish in an aerosol can. Spray it on just a little thick to allow a wetting action to happen; it will spread across the surface into a uniform coat that will dry to a smooth finish. Be careful not to apply so much that runs and drips can form. Practice spraying a scrap piece of wood - you should observe the surface having a glossy smooth even coat. If surface looks matte and not glossy, you need to apply a little more. If it runs with drips, back off, you applied too much. It's not really that difficult to find the correct amount. I applied this product to both white and dark pieces and it's very nice looking. No more oxidation at all.
As luxury as the set was before, it now feels even more so ... and there's no more oxidation to have to clean. Permanently fixed !
I've had the same issue with a set of Rosewood pieces I bought in December 2016. I tried all of the suggestions (except painting). They provided only a two or three week solution. Then I applied Gerlitz Guitar Honey. Which is intended for rosewood and ebony fretboards. It worked for a couple of months then came partially back. I applied it again. I five months it came partially back. I applied it again. In seven months it came back again, but only on three pieces and only partially at that. I applied it again ... I may have to apply it once more before I die. It seems to be reaching a saturation point. The pieces look beautiful.
I have an new chess set ... boxwood/bud rosewood. For the most part I am happy with the set, but I have some problem pieces - the knights. ( pictures in my personal blog here http://www.richimages.net/?p=7257)
I took a rag/soft brush and wiped away what I thought was "dust" on these pieces. Brialliant shine. Looks great. Easy to remove the "dust".
Only 24 hours later - the dust is back! I now know it's really not just dust - the set was in a fitted storage coffer. And the dust only appeared/appears on the knights - no other pieces. So this is not "dust" ... It seems to be some sort of oxidation, or residue. This build up returns to these peices in about a day.
Any suggestions ? Anyone else run into this issue?