How to prepare for OTB Tournament II?

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ratkins

A while back, I asked the chess.com community for advice on how best to prepare for a club OTB tournament with G/30 time control.  I received a number of very helpful suggestions.  I am now preparing for a more serious local OTB tournament with much longer time control (G/120).  The tournament is in two weeks.  I was hoping for some advice on how to get ready!

As background, I am a Class B player with a provisional rating of 1776.  I have played only 5 rated games at this time control.  I do not spend much time learning openings, and play the same basic openings as white or black (as white King’s Gambit, Vienna, KIA (against the French) or Grand Prix (against Sicilian), as black Pirc or Grunfeld), else just go with basic opening principals.  I spend some time studying endgames and believe it is a relative strength at my level.  I also study the obligatory tactical puzzles and my tactical rating on chess.com is around 2000.   

So here is my prep plan.  Once or twice a week I use Chess Position Trainer to stay sharp on the first 10 or so moves of my preferred openings.  Otherwise, I devote an hour or so a day to solving tactical puzzles.  I am trying to get on the wagon and stop all blitz play.  And this may sound odd, but I am also running more than usual to say fit.  What else would you do?

Then turning to how to play the games themselves, what kinds of strategies do you use in G/120 (or longer) time control?  The last (and only) time I played at these time controls, I played conservatively and let my opponents make mistakes or try to prevail in the ending.  This worked fine with lower rated players, but I got crushed by a player over 1900 even though I had managed to obtain a fine position out of the opening.  I have since learned that passive play in either the Pirc or Grunfeld leads to trouble.   

So my proposed strategy this go is to still play a bit cautiously if my opponent is well below my rating strength, playing more positional lines (e.g., Vienna).  But I will try to play sharp, riskier lines (e.g., KG) if my opponent is at or above my level.  And in those games, try to relax, enjoy the games, and not worry about the result. 

Any thoughts or suggestions welcomed.

KingAlex24

you should play your best game against all opponents. according to the style that suits you.

Flamma_Aquila

I just played in my first OTB tourney this weekend. The time controls were G/75 in the later rounds (5 round swiss) and I found the hardest part for me was endurance. In the fifth round, I just had no mental energy left, and played horribly.

Anybody got any ideas on how to prevent that?

minoc

I have played a total of approx 50 tourneys in my life; I am not a professional chess player at all.   Chess.com games and tools are great for tactical/positional play, but live OTB games have a few extra caveats, in my opinion:

1) Fatigue - Pace yourself, bring or eat good food regularly, get good sleep the night before. Force yourself to take regular breaks., go for a walk for a minute or two. For me, the stress and adrenaline in the morning translates to fatigue in the afternoon, unless I force myself to relax early on. Coffee in the morning may bring disaster in the afternoon.  Take breaks from your games between meetings- go outside and check out the weather, find someone to chat with - anything to focus your energy not on the win/loss you just played if you can.

2) Final board scan on every move.  This is a habit I learned recently.  After you have decided what to move, force yourself to spend at least 15 secs (for G/120, I would spend more) looking at the whole board. This helps prevent the blatant blunder.  Losing a game on a move 35 blunder because I was 'so sure' reeks.

3) Play the person too.  The higher rated games, this may be less critical, but like the chess.com teacher Raymond teaches, a significant part of the game is fought above the table.  I can go more into this if required.

4) Keep your ego (and your ratings changes) out of it. This is a tool I use to step back. It reduces stress / fatigue if every move is NOT a measure of yourself. If you can step back and see the beauty of the game (that both you and your opponent have created) instead of a validation of you. Ok., this may sound wishy-washy, but it really helps me play at my best even when losing.  If you are naturally an attacking player but play passively because of fear of a losing, well, you are not playing your game and you are not playing your best.  I find it useful to remember that on the big scale of things, nobody is going to be watching your ratings changes/...  I go to tourneys cause I love the game, and I like the people - not for a arbitrary ratings measure change or winnings. Just an aside, two weeks ago I went to a class championship tourney in DC. I am class B as well.  There were 4 adults and 5 kids (including a 9 yr old) in the class. By the second day, I was the only adult in my class left; losing to kids was too much for the remaining adults.

5) Take advantage of the fact that usually there are some REALLY good players at these tourneys... Watch their games if you can.  These are free gems.  Some may even help analyze your games with you. And it may reduce your stress by not thinking about your games for a few minutes.  (on an aside, this last tourney I watched an expert struggle to win with a knight and bishop vs a lone king - and did it barely...  What fun)

6) Attending smaller regular tourneys/clubs may help.  The DC chess center has ladder games on Mondays (1 rated game, long time controls). Atlanta has a great chess center.

7) Have fun. Why else would you spend a weekend cramped up in tight rooms sitting at tables for hours not saying a word.  Breathe. Enjoy.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck,

- Michael.

 

On a final note: I agree the tactical trainer here on chess.com is awesome.  And always have a game plan (even a bad one is better than none) - as recommended you (Ratkins) in another post.  Excellent advice.

Flamma_Aquila

3) Play the person too.  The higher rated games, this may be less critical, but like the chess.com teacher Raymond teaches, a significant part of the game is fought above the table.  I can go more into this if required.

Please do.

minoc
rookandladder wrote:

3) Play the person too.  The higher rated games, this may be less critical, but like the chess.com teacher Raymond teaches, a significant part of the game is fought above the table.  I can go more into this if required.

Please do.


Ok., this comes into play in many ways, usually really subtly.  This may sound like cheap tricks and you do not have to do them, but be aware that others may be doing them to you.

Also, let me be very clear: Raymond discusses the importance of the 'above the board' game, but he does not (as far as I know) specifically refer to or teach what I say below.  These are my words;  blame me :)

Chess is not poker, but reading your opponent may still be critical.

Watch (note: never stare at) your opponent, you may be able to know when they are focused on an attack or area of the board.  This may help you know when and where to play traps (esp if you are losing and tricks are all you have left). More importantly, your opponent is watching you.  Be aware what signs you are giving off.  I have won/drawn many games solely by the fact I play a very stupid trap (usually triggered by a poisoned or sacrificed piece), hit the clock, and then about 2 seconds later *very* subtly scowl at the board.  If you are too nervous., get up and leave for a few minutes.

If your opponent is looking nervous and playing passively, he is probably not playing his best.  Play what puts him off guard - get out of the main lines if he appears to know em.  I love attacking at this point. Most importantly, play your game. Smiling subtly when they make moves may put them off guard.

The opposite is also true; when your opponent is confident, I work to appear down until I have a counter attack.  Often in class B and below, opponents will move faster the more confident they are.  Their moves are usually predictable at this point, use this fact. 

Then again, some people are so tied up in their ego that the first time you pull an unexpected move or launch a threat, they go into defense/passive mode.

The clock is a great distraction to many players.   When I was learning to fly, my instructor dropped a pen on the cockpit floor and asked me to get it. I was in the middle of a landing, halfway thru my radio calls. When I reached for it, he took control and landed the plane. Lesson: fly the plane, nothing else is important.  The clock is simply a tool to prevent games from taking too long.  I have seen opponents who look at the clock (even in G/120+ times) at least 5 times per move.  Focus on the game, not the clock.   That being said, if your opponent is losing on time, you have one more advantage, esp if you opponent is constantly looking at the clock.  His/her energy is on the clock; yours is on the game.  Often this increases the chance your opponent will not see a tactical attack or trap.  I like doing what I can at this point to increase this likelihood. Most masters I have observed would rather run the clock out (or down to the ~1 min mark) before going into speed chess mode.

In short, unless you are both GM, mistakes will be made in the game.  Anything you can do to minimize your mistakes, while increasing there odds is key.  Timing when to play traps, at least in class C and below, may make the difference.

On a final note., if my opponent moves and then stares at a piece, or starts looking at me and the piece, or acts in any unusual way; it usually is a trap.

If this sounds like hogwash to you, ignore this message.  I think of the 'above the board' stuff much like politics; it is ugly but is what happens when humans interact.

When I was in High School (20 yrs ago), I went to the national HS chess championships in Albuquerque.  I was rated 13xx or so. My first opponent was a beautiful girl who smiled at me after every move. I had the joy of playing easier opponents in round 2.... other opponents who shared a first round loss with me.

- Michael.

Flamma_Aquila
minoc wrote:
rookandladder wrote:

3) Play the person too.  The higher rated games, this may be less critical, but like the chess.com teacher Raymond teaches, a significant part of the game is fought above the table.  I can go more into this if required.

Please do.


Ok., this comes into play in many ways, usually really subtly.  This may sound like cheap tricks and you do not have to do them, but be aware that others may be doing them to you.

Chess is not poker, but reading your opponent may still be critical.

Watch (note: never stare at) your opponent, you may be able to know when they are focused on an attack or area of the board.  This may help you know when and where to play traps (esp if you are losing and tricks are all you have left). More importantly, your opponent is watching you.  Be aware what signs you are giving off.  I have won/drawn many games solely by the fact I play a very stupid trap (usually triggered by a poisoned or sacrificed piece), hit the clock, and then about 2 seconds later *very* subtly scowl at the board.  If you are too nervous., get up and leave for a few minutes.

If your opponent is looking nervous and playing passively, he is probably not playing his best.  Play what puts him off guard - get out of the main lines if he appears to know em.  I love attacking at this point. Most importantly, play your game. Smiling subtly when they make moves may put them off guard.

The opposite is also true; when your opponent is confident, I work to appear down until I have a counter attack.  Often in class B and below, opponents will move faster the more confident they are.  Their moves are usually predictable at this point, use this fact. 

Then again, some people are so tied up in their ego that the first time you pull an unexpected move or launch a threat, they go into defense/passive mode.

The clock is a great distraction to many players.   When I was learning to fly, my instructor dropped a pen on the cockpit floor and asked me to get it. I was in the middle of a landing, halfway thru my radio calls. When I reached for it, he took control and landed the plane. Lesson: fly the plane, nothing else is important.  The clock is simply a tool to prevent games from taking too long.  I have seen opponents who look at the clock (even in G/120+ times) at least 5 times per move.  Focus on the game, not the clock. That being said, if your opponent is losing, you have one more advantage, esp if you opponent is constantly looking at the clock.  His/her energy is on the clock; yours is on the game.  Often this increases the chance your opponent will not see a tactical attack or trap.  I like doing what I can at this point to increase this likelihood. 

In short, unless you are both GM, mistakes will be made in the game.  Anything you can do to minimize your mistakes, while increasing there odds is key.  Timing when to play traps, at least in class C and below, may make the difference.

On a final note., if my opponent moves and then stares at a piece, or starts looking at me and the piece; it usually is a trap.

If this sounds like hogwash to you, ignore this message.  I think of the 'above the board' stuff much like politics; it is ugly but is what happens when humans interact.

When I was in High School (20 yrs ago), I went to the national HS chess championships in Albuquerque.  I was rated 13xx or so. My first opponent was a beautiful girl who smiled at me after every move. I had the joy of playing easier opponents in round 2.... other opponents who shared a first round loss with me.

- Michael.


Interesting. I usually do the same thing I do in poker... become unreadable. I'm actually pretty good, as I am deadpan most of the time anyway.

I was thinking about wearing a massive amount of bad cologne next time, but that is probably crossing the ettiquite line!

minoc

rookandladder: I was thinking about wearing a massive amount of bad cologne next time, but that is probably crossing the ettiquite line!

LOL., esp locked up in the small playing rooms.

  • Aware of what is going on: yes.
  • Subtle actions to alter what is going on: your call.
  • Rude, tactless actions: right out. 
WhereDoesTheHorseGo
minoc wrote:
...

1) Fatigue - Pace yourself, bring or eat good food regularly, get good sleep the night before. Force yourself to take regular breaks., go for a walk for a minute or two. For me, the stress and adrenaline in the morning translates to fatigue in the afternoon, unless I force myself to relax early on. Coffee in the morning may bring disaster in the afternoon.  Take breaks from your games between meetings- go outside and check out the weather, find someone to chat with - anything to focus your energy not on the win/loss you just played if you can. ...


I think in the long tournaments, physical and mental fatigue are huge. There is a thread devoted to nutrition to help battle fatigue here at chess.com. Here are the highlights:

  • Eat your last main meal 3 hrs before the tournament
  • You should stay away from the J U N K that is in a vending machine
  • Instead eat fruits (whole ones, fruit salad or juices, raisins), cereal bars, low fat yogurt with fruit or cereals,
  • Drink small quantities of (mineral) water, sports drinks, fruit juices (Fischer sipped apple juice), and tea or coffee at regular intervals all day
  • If you need to eat during a game, eat something whole, like almonds cereal bars, fruits, raisins, dry fruits, chocolate. And remember to eat only a bit at a time.

Kasparov would be physically active before and inbetween games, and did NOT focus on his win or loss that just happened. FYI, just 20 minutes of walking stimulates the part of the brain that is critical in chess! It also calms you down. Maybe even try some push-ups.

rollingpawns

I am also class "B" player, played 45 rated games so far, so I'll try to share some experience. Regarding time control I would recommend Botvinnik's rule - 20% of the time for the first 15 moves, i.e. ~25 minutes for G/120. It worked well for me for G/90 games. Leave enough time for the endgame - at least 30-40 minutes. Try to get as much information as possible about the openings your future opponents are playing. Maybe you played with them before or you can find their games online, in some DB. It can be very beneficial for you. Do not experiment and try to play only openings/variations/lines you played before, at least several times online. If you get an opening you don't know, try to play safely first. Don't play much blitz the week before the tourney and definitely no blitz day before it. With much lower rated opponents be careful, they can play some street chess. Just make good active positional moves, and they will make mistake, for sure.

Alphastar18

Considering my own OTB experience so far (around 30 tournament games and 75 club games), I don't buy into the 'play the person' crap. Any decent player does not give away any signs of anxiety or whatever at all, nor will he act upon his opponent's signs.
The problems I have with 'playing the person':
A) any attention you give to playing the person detracts from the attention to playing the board, which is the most important.
B) You're gambling. Your opponent may be faking. Or, his anxiety or whatever mood or condition may actually improve his play. For example, in the second game on this page: http://www.jeremysilman.com/chess_dossier_js/js_my_games_stylistic_02.html JS played excellent chess while suffering from a high fever, and collapsed later in the tournament when he got well. (Unfortunately, I myself lost two games whilst suffering from a stomach flu in a tournament 2 years ago, which meant the end of any hope for a good overall result.)
If you want to gamble, why play chess?
I don't buy into playing tricks & traps anyway. The only reason I would play a trap is because it is the best try in an already lost position.

Regarding the clock, my 2 cents:
1) Make sure you press the clock after every move. I've seen new players oh so often forget to press the clock after they've moved a piece and wrote down their move... Your opponent isn't obliged at all to point out that you haven't pressed your clock, so pay attention!
2) Don't spend too much time in the opening. (Especially GMs seem to like spending lots of time pondering their opening moves nowadays.) GM's can get away with it, you probably won't. In a G/120 I'd suggest 15 minutes as a standard amount of time for the opening. Decide for yourself when your opening ends and middlegame begins.

rollingpawns

I would say "playing the person" is important maybe not that much as from pure behavioral point of view as from "previous experience" one. Because "ratkins" is playing in the local tournament, it's possible he played with somebody before. For example, I once in the local club lost to 200 lower rated guy because he played the sharp opening I didn't know. So, he plays kind of street chess, I learned. Next time we met he tried with different color another sharp opening. I refused his gambit, got a good position, won 2 pawns and had a won endgame unless got into some sharp line (which I could avoid), lost most of my advantage and agreed to a draw in a time scramble. Next time I play him, I will  play even more positional chess, will suffocate him, he will get no chances. Another time I lost to one guy in active chess the game (where I had a big advantage) due to his combination. So, what do you think, I play with him in the regular tourney 3 weeks later and learn about it a few hours before that, being at home. I look at our game, analyze it ... come, we play the same opening. I get a good position, try not give him any tactical chances, then he misses tactical shot himself and loses. So, I didn't "play the board" in these cases, I "played the person". 

pawngenius

       Rating is not everything.  In fact, be wary of lower-rated players as they usually pull out some surprises.  On the other hand, some higher-rated players are provisionally high and that means that their true rating is much lower.  Just be confident enough to play your best consistently throughout the time control. 

       Since you've been doing too much work on tactics, you may want to study the brilliant games of classical masters and learn some positional ideas.  The openings and endgames do matter but it's usually the middlegame strategies and tactics that you may need to focus on.  That's where I usually win or lose tournament games.