I’m stuck at 100, what to do?

Take some time to learn the fundamentals of chess. There are some very good free resources on YouTube.

Learn how the pieces move.

Learn basic checkmate patterns and how to convert

Learn basic openings (for understanding not studying that's sorta useless until like 1600+ but even then ...)

Learn midgame ideas not all of them but at least learn how to get reasonably pawn structures (some of them include doubled or isolated pawns )

Learn two move checkmates 100s love blundering by pushing flank pawns and blinding mare I for

Learn how to take the center WITHOUT hanging peices

Once you get to 1200 then try to understand how pieces move lol nobady until 1800+ knows how to move prices just learn how to see blunder

Then convert without blundering back

There is also other advice I recommend listening to gothomchess Daniel nerodiskey hikaru etc

most of this is correct but I'm 600 and I can move all the pieces, I understand and study basic and some advanced tactics, I know how to 3-5 move mate(sometimes I like torturing my opponents) I can take the center pretty easily, I have a small repertoire of openings, and I know how to convert and underpromote, and I know how to get a good pawn structure in the middlegame, I listen to Hikaru, Gotham, Magnus sometimes. so in short, us 3 digit elo aren't too bad

Jiat because you can move the pieces doesn't mean you move them well

Moving them well is pretty much 1600 + due to positional play most of the time you can't actually practice how to move prices or pawn structures at 600 too much caos (hanging peices by move 10-15 );

You should watch 1000 elo games they hang queens every other move

Your not that bad but you deffinetly don't know how to avoid hanging too many things lol

thats not how I play tho- my opponent hangs pieces on move 10-15, I definitely don't. I move them pretty well in my opinion(and in the game review's opinion) and I can practice how to move pieces by playing against 1000-1300 computer, not just by playing. occasionally I blunder pieces on moves 10-15, but usually I don't

Fair enough everyone plays differently

From my experience most people (like 80%) under 1000 hang peices before move 15(and even 1600s a good chunk of the time )

Also that might be good advice

Yeah, there is totally a difference between knowing how pieces move and how you should be using them. But still, a lot of the things you mentioned someone with a ranking of at least 150 should know. I’d recommend lessons, and you can always abuse the fact that you can just get the free trial, speed through all the lessons and practice until a day before it ends, then cancel. Works great for me, but it is a really good subscription to have. Anyways, i agree with the majority of what you said, still.

It is also important to not leave your pieces hanging, have several attackers (or defenders) on a piece, at minimum one for each piece in the beginning, and if its a safe square you should be able to move a piece to protect another piece within a move, and during mid game you can use pawns for a few attacks and sacrifices, but if you can tell it lasts until endgame keep at least three.

(The rest of this is tips, not really a reply to the person above’s response.)

Opening: Try to get control of the center with pawns. (Center is d4, d5, e4, and e5). You also want to develop your pieces to safe squares with a lot of movement. Definitely watch out for your f2/f7 piece, as it is the weakest piece on the board. Since the king is its only protector, that means that if your opponent lines up, a, say, queen and bishop battery (Where the queen and bishop defend each other), if they capture f2/f7 then its checkmate, or easy to get one from there. You should probably clear your king/queenside to open up your rook. That should be your second most priority, and unless you have lost your right to castle, (ex. Forcing king off starting square) then you should keep three pawns that are in front of the rook you want to castle, otherwise castling might not be the best idea. If that explanation for castling didn’t make sense, you should probably use your daily free lesson on castling, since for beginners it is a very important lesson.

Middle game: You can start being a bit more risky here, and you should have developed all of your pieces. If you castled, then you shouldn’t worry about your king/queenside, whichever you castled to. Knights come in handy here, because they can fork a lot of valueable pieces. You can start piling up attackers on certain pieces, but you should always use the piece with the lowest value to capture FIRST. Again, like that person said, you should learn common middle game strategies and responses.

Endgame: Make sure you have at least one piece that can move horizontally on your first/eight rank. If you castled, which you should, because it protects your king from the battle for the center, then it is an easy checkmate with a rook or queen. (Any piece that can move vertically, but those are the only two, same with horizontally.) Also, dont be afraid to disrupt your pawn formation in front of the king. One downside of castling is the pawns which SHOULD be in front of it prevent many escapes. This is about the time when most pieces of value should be captured. If you are left with all pawns, then you should start moving to the center to help a pawn formation (You should also learn endgame pawn formations, as pawns in the endgame are your only hope to not drawing, or drawing a stalemate in some cases. You should use your king to protect these pieces, as the king should be the primary attacker of your pawns. Once you promote, it is quickest if you promote to a queen. Rooks dont draw stalemate, but it takes an awfully long time to force a kind into a corner and checkmate it (you can watch a video on YouTube about “the box method for rooks, chess endgame” to see how that works). A bishop or knight also draw a stalemate if they are the last pieces left. A queen is your best hope. (For my sake and yours, you can watch a video on YouTube on “how to win endgame with only a queen” the strategy is pretty easy.

Anyways, that took a long time to write, so I sincerely hope this helps you on your chess journey! I feel like i should mention how much each piece values, since i mentioned how you should use your piece with lowest value to attack/defend first (Also, when trading (capturing a piece just for the sake to get rid of it, even when that piece is defended, so you capture that and they capture what you captured with) you shouldn’t really trade fair or worse trades, so any trade that doesn’t get you material (the points you get from high value pieces) you can see who has more material points by the (if there is one) —+ next to where it shows which pieces they took, under their name.)

Highest to lowest

King = undefined, costs you entire game

Queen = 9 material points

Rook = 5 material points

Bishop = 3 material points

Knight = 3 material points

Pawn = 1 material point

At your level opening theory is not that important. Just learn to not hang your pieces, and look for pins, forks, skewers and discovered attacks.

If you do that, you will easily reach 400 Glicko.

Also, adding on, you get a free game review every day. I recommend using these for rapid games, but anyways. For the lowest tier subscription, gold, (about 10 CAD/month) you can get infinite game reviews. If you aren’t interested in paying for a subscription, then you can always sign up to (recommending diamond, as you get stacks of other tools you can only get in that tier that massively help you improve) a membership and cancel right before you are billed.

I thought platinum game you free game reviews and gold gave you free puzzles

Yes, pins, forks, and skewers are all excellent ways to win pieces! Finding them can sometimes be overwhelming, though. Making sure your threatening piece is protected or on a safe square is key to having a successful fork, pin or skewer. (I wouldn’t pin/fork/skewer if your piece isn’t on a safe square, because while it is defended, that can easily break the pin/fork/skewer if it isn’t a piece that can mimic the one that was captured’s movements.

Yes

Oh yeah, I definitely read it wrong. So i guess platinum for like 15 CAD.

Another important aspect for all those rated 100, is to not imitate TOO high rated players. That will only result in a parody at its best, and a catastrophe at its worst.

Explain Bf5. It's a 10 minute game. You were black.