Pupil of the Forum.

Yes, with the strong knight in d5 black is more than fine: he has easy development with (in some order) Bb7+Nbd7+Be7+0-0 etc and if you have some formal development advantage you can hardly use it before black catches up. I think 7. e5 is bit early and would also prefer 6. Nc3 but anyway this example is too short for learning purposes - post longer game next time.

In my view, I wouldn't mind having either side. Black looks to have had an easy opening where white's first move theoretical advantage is nonexistent. Black can easily make plans. Like targeting the e-pawn, contesting for the open c-file, castling with no problems, and having the potentially dangerous h1-a8 diagonal to get a hold of.

It's very odd to me that black comes out solid here despite ignoring many opening principles. I guess I don't understand the thought process the person playing black would have as he made his way through that opening.

Anyway after some research, I think I would play 2.c3 against the Sicilian next time.

I think that this position is fine for black (maybe even better!)  

Please let me know if this helps and/or if you have any questions.  Thank you.

Having little targets or plans are very important in chess. When I first started it was all about trying to win a piece, but as you play better players you see that they are trying to win files or diagonals or even one square. The better players are doing that immediately, without the weaker player even realizing it. This is why losing is actually helpful if you can figure out the point in the game where you weren't allowed to have any more plans, then you can copy it.

I think the masters of chess are going for even more complexities than that. I think they're going for really complex patterns, which is why they don't need all their pieces to win someone like me. They are seeing patterns that I'm not advanced enough to see.

11.. Bc5 seems inaccurate (should Be7) and white should clearly redeploy the knight to e4. :P

Nbd7 is superior to Nc6 due to not blocking the bishop and the c-file, and the possibility of Nc5 or Nb6-c4 (and that's another reason why Bc5 is inferior)

in the final position i don't like Be3 but i'm not entirely sure that Ne3!? Nf4!? is better either. the point is probably that playing Nf1 when Ne4 is possible just sucks i guess

 In your continuation AggressiveBee, I would play 13.Nd4, not Nf1.

 Here is the next game.

This one took everything I had. This is where I call it a day. 

A few disjointed things that come to mind:

-Learn the K+Q and K+R endings completely (so if we put the kings and rook/queen on random legal squares, you should be able to mate)

-Play games that are slow enough so that you can eliminate all silly blunders. Even if you only have time for 15 min games, that's better than blitz. Check before each move to make sure you're not hanging pieces or pawns.

-Make every move with a purpose. Better yet, practice coming up with plans. I don't have the patience or the time right now, but I am planning to read Complete Chess Strategy by Ludek Pachman soon- it's one of the best books for learning how to plan strategically.

-That being said, at your level most games will be decided by tactics and blunders. So why would I say to work on endgames? I think you will learn more about the individual pieces in isolation (for example, R+2 pawns vs R+1) by studying endgames than you will by studying openings or middlegames when all the pieces are on the board.

-Once again: check for captures and make sure you aren't hanging pieces- very important.

-Don't spend time memorizing opening variations. I looked through two of your recent games and your openings are probably better than mine. I got to 1404 USCF without studying openings at all except for the occasional ten minutes before an OTB tournament.

-Play to control the center and develop pieces in support of your attacking ideas. Don't ever move a pawn or knight to a3 or h3 in the opening without a reason.

-Improve your worst pieces first, and if that isn't possible, try to trade them for your opponent's best pieces.

-Most importantly, drill yourself on tactics. If you do this correctly then you will eventually be the one pinning your opponent's pieces and picking up loose pawns/attacking/etc. and not the other way around.

-I've heard that playing open games (1. e4 e5) is a good way to learn, and it sounds like good advice to me. You won't go wrong starting with e4, Nf3, Bb5 or Bc4, Nc3, O-O, etc. in most situations assuming your opponent develops normally.

-Don't worry about computer evaluations. Don't use them to see if your middlegame advantage was a half or quarter pawn- evaluate positions yourself! Learn to look at a position from any game and be able to tell who stands better and why and what each side should be trying to do.

That's all for now- best of luck

A chess player worrying about openings is like a golfer worrying about golf clubs. Yes, they can improve your game, but unless you are already very good, there are plenty of things that will give you much better return on time invested.

I fully agree with kclemens. This is the way to improve.

It's very important not to develop bad habits early (like memorizing opening lines before having improved your overall play enough), because they prevent you from learning chess. Try to learn the basic chess principles:

- the opening ones;

- the move choice ones (note the candidate moves in a position - moves that look good + forcing moves like checks, captures, other tactics; see what happens in case each of them are played - how will your opponent respond with one of his candidate moves, but don't rely on weak choices by him - look for his best moves that you'd play if you were him; see what you'll respond; chances are you'll lose much less material and play better as a whole);

- the positional ones - king safety, good pawn structure, development, center control, space control, lines control, which may help you if there are no obvious tactics or other moves that suggest themselves;

- the endgame ones for the endgames you're most likely to encounter - K+R vs K (K+Q vs K is similar and even easier) and K+P vs K.

I am hitting up more tatics in my practice regime. I know how to win a K+R vs K game. I'll look at K+P vs K tonight. Any commentary on that last game?

Let's try to go this through one move at a time.

1. e4 c5

Ok, this may not be strictly a developping move but black takes control of the important central square d4 and if white plays 2. Nf3 d6 3. d4 cxd4 4. Nxd4 black has pawn majority on central files which can be important strategic asset. 

2. Nf3 d6

Normal development - black opens the diagonal for the bishop.

3. c3

This doesn't directly contribute towards development either so one could say that both players have conceded one tempo thus far. However, like 1... c5 this also has a valid point and therefore isn't a mistake. 

3...        a6?

This move really looks like a waste of tempo. Black absolutely should play 3... Nf6! before you have time for d4 + Bd3. After 3... Nf6 white hardly could play 4. d4. 

4. d4! cxd4?! 

People tend to play captures like this automatically without thinking but maybe they shouldn't. One must understand that this move also has it downsides as it frees c3 for the white knight. 4... Nf6 5. Bd3 deserves consideration. 

5. cxd4 Nf6 

Developping and attacking e4.

6. Nbd2?!

I think the knight would be more active in c3 here. The only downside for Nc3 I can think of is b5+b4 but it's too early to worry about this. In d2 the knight hampers both the queen and Bc1. 

6...      e6 

Development.

7. e5? 

This is your mistake! It may look tempting to kick the knight but d5 is more active square for the knight than f6 and in this position the knight will be very difficult to drive away from d5 as you don't have the c-pawn. I would continue developping with 7. Bd3. The pawns e4, d4 control important central squares restricting black's pieces. You can first develop and see what black intends to do in the centre before deciding your own actions in the centre.

7...       dxe5 

8. dxe5  Nd5(!)

Whereas black was rather passive before your e5? now he is suddenly very active with central knight and also the diagonal for the queen and Bf8 open. 

9. Bc4?!

This just invites b5. On the other hand, it's not quite clear what white should do. 

9...    b5

Black is happy to play this move preparing Bb7 when the bishop has the excellent long diagonal. Moreover, thanks to your last move this comes with tempo. 

10. Bb3 

You say that you have 3 pieces developped vs. his one but the quality of development also matters and after black's 'equalising' turn he will surely have two pieces developped anyway. Moreover, development advantage is only temporary so in order to benefit you would need to lauch an attack before black catches up. Here you are not in a position to do so. Indeed, black has easy devevelopment for the rest of his pieces whereas you'll need to move Nd2 again in order to develop the queenside. 

You also say that you have torn up the centre but this only lead the centre falling to the hands of the black pieces (Nd5, Bb7 in particular).

That's what I needed to hear Shaak.