I will try to at least get through nearly all of them eventually at least on a surface level. You may also become faster/better at going through them over time.
If you buy a book and never read through it all it doesn't mean it was a mistake. It may have been a good decision at the time, it just didn't turn out the way you believed it would. Another time it might.
If it weren't for PGN versions of chess books, I wouldn'y read ANY of them. Too freaking time consuming to set up positions every time.
Alex Fishbein, who used to be a Colorado resident before becoming a grandmaster, wrote in a local chess bulletin that he read My System without a board. He may well have approached Botvinnik's One Hundred Selected Games, a book he thought highly of, the same way, but I can't remember.
The idea is to train your visualization, seeing the analyzed position in the mind's eye, as distinct from board vision, seeing what is in front of you. Both are vital to becoming a good player, and reading a chess book without a board can help cultivate those skills.
That said, today's analytical tomes are difficult if not impossible for the average player to approach this way, requiring the player to physically set up the position or play the moves and variations over with a PGN or ChessBase reader.
To SilentKnighte5's point about three dimensional pieces versus two dimensional diagrams, it should not matter but I think it does. If you're going to compete in face to face, over-the-board tournaments, by all means set up the pieces and practice with a clock to become familiar with just what you will face. I often play through games on my travel set, but I'm not sure that is as good as a regulation-sized set. Practice with what you will be using the most.
Just my two cents worth.