@daba1234 The more games you play per time interval, the lower your Glicko RD (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glicko_rating_system for an explanation) gets, which make your rating fluctuate less.
As a result, if you avoid playing on chess.com for the given time control, your Glicko Rd will steadily increase.
By virtue, chess is a zero sum game, and calculating the relative skill of players is indubitably useful. Hungarian physics professor and chess master, Arpad Elo, created the Elo rating system we come to know of today. Elo assumes that the performance of each player is essentially a random variable which as time progresses, comes down to a bell curve distribution. So the skill of a player, if we follow on with a little bit of reasoning, can be represented by the mean of that player's random variable. The formula that dictates it is as follows:
USCF and FIDE later changed their systems in such a way that it would follow a logistic curve (which accounts for higher probabilities of extreme quantities).
The 16 points is known as 1/2 of the K-factor. The K-factor of 32 (the total points won or lost by both players in a single game) is still used as the default for players under 2100 in FIDE according to wikipedia.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elo_rating_system#Most_accurate_K-factor
It does look like the K-factor here is 16 (+/-8 for each player +/- 8 for the rating differential)rather than 32 for players who are extremely active.
USCF utilises a three level K factor catering for players of different ratings. For players with ratings under 2100, the K factor is 32; 2100-2400, a K factor of 24; 2400+, a K factor of 16. FIDE employs different K factors, of 40, 20 and 10 respectively. Initially, Elo had proposed a K factor value of 10 for players of 2100-2400 rating, but if you consider the statistical implications, this does not prove to work.
I assume the bigger the difference between your rating and your opponents effects the number of points gained or lost by winning or losing, but how is it calculated?
Affects.
https://www.chess.com/article/view/chess-ratings---how-they-work
At the end of the article, it seems to treat nerd content as something that must be circumvented. Well, yes, it is an article on a chess website, but not just any chess website, one that is the most universal, chess.com. I looked through the pdf, and there was nothing there that seemed to be overly complex. If anything complex, then it has to be this:
https://www.quora.com/Where-can-I-find-PDFs-of-Shinichi-Mochizukis-proof-of-the-ABC-conjecture
Argh, it really does give one a sense of dissatisfaction realising the vast sums of knowledge that may never be unravelled before our eyes.
If a player rated 1000 wins to someone rated 985-1015, the new rating is 1008. Lose, the new rating is 992. If the opponent has a rating of 1016-1039, win +9 and lose -7. every 16, 24, 32... points difference your opponent has, the rating change will alter by 1. My blitz rating is 1125. If I win to someone rated 605 or below, Or lose to someone rated 1645 or above, my rating won't change.
I'm 600 in Bullet win against 1100 gain 3 points.Why?
I lost to 550 lose 10 points.Why?
If you lose against someone 100 points higher, -6. 200 points, -5. 350, -4. 500+, -1
@daba1234 The more games you play per time interval, the lower your Glicko RD (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glicko_rating_system for an explanation) gets, which make your rating fluctuate less.