Small Towns, Big Chess Stories
Hello, my readers!
Welcome to my first blog post of 2026! After two months without any new articles, I decided that the time was right for my debut this year. The only thing I needed was the most difficult part: a decent topic. Luckily, however, I think I have found one that might be interesting.
Today, I want to talk about some famous 'Chess Towns' around the world. That is, places whose history and inhabitants are closely connected to chess in some way. Let's explore the stories and tales behind them. I was already familiar with some of these communities before deciding to write this post, while others were new discoveries that amazed me.
I have chosen four different towns to talk about, along with a few honorable mentions. Of course, I could also bring up famous cities such as Moscow, St. Louis, London, and Reykjavik, but I think those are already widely recognized as chess hubs.
Therefore, I will focus on small, lesser-known localities that have something special to offer and engage the local chess players in different ways, not just through high-level games and tournaments.
I hope you will join me on my virtual tour of the world!
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2 - Chess City (Elista, Russia)
5 - Conclusion & Honorable Mentions
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We begin our journey in Schachdorf (Chess Village) Ströbeck, Germany, previously featured in a blog post by @Nguyen-LongNhat. Unfortunately, he has closed his account, so I am unable to provide a link.
Ströbeck was first mentioned on 20 October 995. Since 2010, it has belonged to the municipality of Halberstadt and has around 1,000 inhabitants today.
The first record of the town in connection with chess dates back to 1515. However, the unusual style of play practiced by its inhabitants, based on medieval chess rules, suggests that the tradition there is almost as old as chess itself in Europe. This style survived until the early 20th century.
According to legend, in 1011, the Bishop of Halberstadt imprisoned a prisoner of war in the Ströbeck watchtower. The guards treated him well, so he taught them how to play chess in return. Since then, the game has been passed down through generations and has retained its popularity.
The first German-language chess book, published in 1616, devoted an entire chapter to the Ströbeck chess style, which made the village famous throughout Europe. In 1913, H. J. R. Murray dedicated five chapters to Ströbeck in his book A History of Chess.
The Ströbeck Chess Club was founded in 1883. Shortly afterwards, in 1886, Germany's first women's chess club was also created. During this period, the villagers began to embrace the international style of play, paving the way for many events to be hosted.
The annual International May Chess Tournament has been held since 1960 and is a real community festival. A major chess congress also takes place every five years since 1885.
For over 1,000 years, the people of Ströbeck have maintained their chess culture in a variety of ways. In the Middle Ages, for example, they would present the local ruler with a silver chess set when he came to power. In return, their privileges were always preserved.
The village museum displays a letter from King Wilhelm I of Prussia, expressing his gratitude for the tribute presented during his coronation celebrations in 1861.
The village square is adorned with a large chessboard where the Ströbeck Living Chess Ensemble performs annually during the May Tournament. The famous Chess Square is a hub of Ströbeck’s tradition, along with the Chess Museum and the Chess Shop.
The game was introduced as an examination subject in schools in 1823 and later became a compulsory discipline at Dr. Emanuel Lasker Primary School. To provide an additional incentive, an annual competition for a special Ströbeck chessboard and pieces has been held. Winners of the tournament proudly display these symbols in their homes.
Ute Huch, spokesperson for the city of Halberstadt, said:
Various chess competitions and tournaments have been established in Ströbeck. These remain an integral part of village life to this day.
Ströbeck is one of the few places in the world where our beloved game is cultivated and played by almost everyone. The people of Ströbeck have always upheld and enhanced their reputation as skilled chess players.
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2 - Chess City (Elista, Russia)
Next, let’s travel to Chess City (Siti-Chess) in Elista, in the Russian region of Kalmykia. As the name suggests, we are talking about an enclave devoted entirely to the game.
This specialized complex was inaugurated in 1998 by Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, the president of FIDE and leader of Russia's Kalmykia province. Everything was built specifically to host the 33rd Chess Olympiad. It later also hosted the 2004 Women's World Chess Championship and the 2006 World Chess Championship.
Situated on the outskirts of the city, Chess City is a distinctive and isolated development comprising a central Chess Palace, residential units, museums, and sculptures. This makes it a focal point for major international tournaments and evidence of the region's intense focus on chess.
The following video provides a glimpse into the complex: Kalmykia — The Other Way.
The site features Californian-Mediterranean-style architecture, including a four-story domed Chess Hall and a giant outdoor chessboard. There is also a statue of Ostap Bender, a fictional chess enthusiast from popular books written by Ilya Ilf and Yevgeni Petrov. Finally, as expected, a life-sized chessboard that the public can play on, as well as a swimming pool.
However, not everything is chess-related: it also includes a museum of Kalmyk Buddhist art. In fact, the city of Elista, located in southwestern Russia, is known as the largest Buddhist city in Europe. Not what many people would expect when they think of Russia, right?
The city has even hosted visiting dignitaries such as the Dalai Lama.
As expected, its creation was also shrouded in controversy. The construction was highly contentious, costing an estimated $30–50 million. Critics dubbed it a 'monument to an impossible dream' and a 'dictator's hobby'.
To make matters worse, all that was happening while Kalmykia was facing significant social difficulties. With few natural resources, the state is economically depressed, and many of its citizens live in poverty. Therefore, the construction of the opulent Chess City was heavily criticized for spending large sums of money on a tourist resort.
Even the New York Times pointed out the contrast between the complex and people’s lives in the republic, publishing an article titled 'Where Chess Is King, and the People Are the Pawns'.
Fun fact: Ilyumzhinov claimed that he had been abducted by aliens for the sole purpose of bringing chess to Elista.
Not-so-fun fact: Unfortunately, the complex is now largely deserted and underused. There have been reports of deterioration at the central Chess Palace since 2019. A prime example of a 'white elephant'.
The buildings and the surrounding 593 hectares of land are now the property of the regional ministry, which must decide whether to demolish or restore the structures, and how to use them in the future.
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Now we come to my personal favorite from this article: the charming Italian town of Marostica in the Veneto region. Despite a population of just 14,000, a living chess game is held every two years in Piazza Castello, with the town’s castle providing a stunning backdrop.
This extraordinary exhibition is a unique and captivating spectacle that seamlessly blends history, tradition, and theatre. Over 600 actors (many of whom are local residents) dress in elaborate medieval costumes and take on the roles of the chess pieces in a recreation of a legendary chess match.
The initiative to organize this chess game came from two university students, Mirko Vucetich and Francesco Pozza. They had the idea for this historical re-enactment and brought it to life in 1923.
However, it is more than just a game or a way to raise funds for the city; it is also a vibrant celebration of Marostica’s rich heritage and storytelling culture. In fact, one of the oldest and most unique theatrical performances in the world.
The Living Chess Game re-enacts a historical event: a 15th-century chess match played in 1454 between Rinaldo d'Angarano and Vieri da Vallonara to settle a romantic dispute over the hand of Lionora, the daughter of the Lord of Marostica.
The governor, not wanting to antagonize either of them, decided that he would give his daughter in marriage to the winner of the 'noble game of chess'. The loser, as a consolation prize, would marry his younger daughter, Oldrada.
The spectacle unfolds over four different days and usually takes place in September. Over the weekends, visitors can enjoy parades, traditional dances, music, and fireworks, all of which are orchestrated to recreate the Renaissance period. It is a truly immersive and unforgettable experience.
The costumes, sets, and choreography are all meticulously crafted to reflect the period and create a sense of authenticity. From the videos and pictures I have seen, it feels like stepping into a time machine.
As there were no witnesses or records of the original moves of the two contenders to reproduce, the decision was made to use two classical chess games as a reference: the famous 'Immortal' game and the 'Evergreen' game.
Please allow me to be emotive here. I really love everything about it, and I can't believe it is not more famous because everything is stunningly beautiful. Today, the event has become a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from around the world, including this writer's father. I hope to be there one day, too.
Check out this excellent blog post by my friend @DocSimooo for more information: Living Chess
You can also watch this 1:30-minute video by Chess.com showing more: The City Of Human Chess | Official Trailer
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Finally, let me introduce you to Marottichal, in India, a place that managed to recover from alcohol addiction thanks to chess. This small town of almost 6,000 people in the state of Kerala is renowned as 'India's Chess Village' because its residents overcame widespread alcoholism through a community-wide obsession with the game.
In the 1970s, Marottichal was known for illicit liquor and gambling. At the time, three households in Marottichal were brewing homemade alcohol for personal consumption. By the early 1980s, the village had become a regional hub for the production of clandestine beverages.
However, everything changed when Charaliyil Unnikrishnan, a local tea shop owner who was inspired by Bobby Fischer, started teaching people how to play chess at his stall in an attempt to encourage them to turn away from alcohol.
He assembled a small group of friends and began networking with the wives and mothers of liquor producers. The women were angry with their husbands and sons for spearheading production. Together, they raided houses where alcohol was produced and stored, destroying hidden supplies and the equipment used to make it.
Despite strong resistance, he believed that learning chess could provide a healthier alternative to replace their addiction.
The transformation was powerful. Cases of alcohol dependence and gambling quickly began to decline. By the early 2000s, more than 90% of residents were playing chess regularly, with over 700 having been trained by him to help combat addiction.
This shift drastically reduced alcoholism and created a new intellectual passion involving everyone from children to the elderly. People regularly sit across chessboards on the street, competing in the shade of bus stops, outside grocery shops, and on the playground.
The game has also fostered better community relationships and improved analytical skills, transforming a troubled hamlet into a vibrant, intellectual, and sober environment. Furthermore, playing chess has reportedly significantly increased confidence among local women.
Baby John, the president of Marottichal’s Chess Association, and affectionately known in the community, states:
More than 4,500 people here – or 75 percent – of the village’s 6,000 residents are proficient players.
Gowrishankar is just 15 and already something of a chess prodigy. He beats me even when he is blind.
Jayaraj Manazhy, a village resident with a current FIDE Elo rating of 2012, recalls how dramatic the situation used to be and how big the change was when people started focusing on learning chess.
People weren’t just drinking, they were brewing and selling liquor in their houses every night. We didn’t have a focus. Chess gave us something new.
The village is now often held up as a "model" for social change in India, showcasing the effectiveness of providing healthy alternatives to addiction.
Today, several young players from there regularly compete internationally and within India. In 2016, Marottichal was awarded a Universal Asian Record by the Universal Records Forum for having the largest number of amateur chess players (1,001) competing simultaneously in Asia.
Check out this post by @JARVIS_SL to learn more: The Chess Addicted Village of India.
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5 - Conclusion & Honorable Mentions
I hope you have enjoyed traveling around these towns with me! They have a very rich history, and the fact that they are so closely linked to my favorite game makes them even more special to me.
Finally, I would like to mention some other small places with strong chess traditions. A few examples include:
- Wijk aan Zee, the Netherlands: Home of the prestigious Tata Steel Chess tournament, which has been held every year since 1968.
- Biel, Switzerland: Hosts the annual Biel International Chess Festival.
- Linares, Spain: Hosted the renowned Linares International Chess Tournament until 2010.
There is also a famous park in Shillong, Meghalaya, India, which is dedicated almost entirely to chess and has become a hub for many players in the state. If you would like to see some extra content, here is a link to a video about it: This park in Meghalaya is a heaven for chess players.
If you know of any other examples that I haven't mentioned, please share them in the comments section. I would love to hear more about them!
That’s all for today! I hope to meet you again soon, as I plan to write another blog post at the beginning of April.
