Bughouse tips. Anyone?

Sort:
Avatar of Marignon

I am looking for some.

I never tried this until now and was very pathetic  :(((

Avatar of cwfrank

I've been thinking about how to write-up some "by novice, for novice" thoughts... 

 

But, first:

"Bughouse Chess Tips For Beginners" -- IM Daniel Rensch

Link: https://www.chess.com/article/view/bughouse-chess-tips-for-beginners

 

That said, you've got the following (obviously):

  • Two (2) Boards,
  • Two (2) Clocks,
  • Four (4) Players, AND
  • Extra Pieces. 

 

You cannot drop a pawn on first or last rank.

But you'll be yelling for pawns, and you can drop one to defend otherwise.

If you're pinned, you can drop a major piece on the last rank.

Pawns promote, but, if a promoted pawn is captured, it is just a pawn, not the captured promotion.

You can drop a piece to check the king, and you can drop a piece to check-mate.

 

Pawn structure, and knight structure, and diagonals are a big deal. Queens aren't as important, pawns and knights become much more important.

 

Dropping a pawn, unobstructed, or which cannot be taken, near the back rank, and which you can defend or otherwise not leave hanging without causing a loss -- this is a big deal. Someone drops a pawn near your starting rank, and they've got more material to drop -- spells trouble. (Try to avoid this, though difficult.)

 

OTB -- You'll hear players whispering among each other (strategy and tactics). Other times, people will actively yell at each other -- gimme this, gimme that... based on what's happening on the board.

 

You need to get used to glancing at the other board to see what's going on. Sometimes you might see something, and say something... sacrifice, and hand-over a piece that helps your team member. (Or vice-versa.)

 

"Stalling" is one tactic. Especially if it's a timed-game. Don't resign unless it's obvious you're pinned, or next move is mate and your team member isn't going to win. The bottom line is time. If next move is mate, stall. If you're being forced into a corner, watch time, and stall if you can. (You'll hear people say "sit" and "go" as signals for safety.)

 

"Material" is another tactic. I'm not a good chess player. Usually my role (OTB) has been to provide material to a better player. But, I can't just throw sacrifices around, I'm still responsible for my own board and defense.

 

It is safe to assume that you will at least receive pieces (material) from your team member occasionally, but don't expect a lot of material -- try to survive with what you have, expecting only a bare-minimum of pawn, knight and/or bishop exchanges (or sacrifices).

 

You also have to be careful about what material you provide, and when you do an exchange or sacrifice, and stalling. It's not just your clock, it's your team member's clock. It's not just your board, it's your team member's board. If you trade something, or lose a piece, same as standard chess -- it could put you at a disadvantage, or, worse, your team member.

 

Secondary to that, when you're looking back and forth at the boards -- you have to take into account what material you've given away to the other team ... this can be make-or-break. If you give away the wrong piece at the wrong time... it could screw-over your team member. And, for that matter... the same holds... sometimes you sacrifice an exchange for this exact purpose -- so your team member can gain the upper-hand.

 

You are ultimately responsible for your board and your play. But you can communicate about what you need, why and when, suggest moves, strategy, tactics, etc.

 

The best teams out there coordinate openings and common exchanges. (If my opponents takes me down this line, I'm going to have to sacrifice this to stay alive and safe, and then you're going to have this or that to play with, in which case you'll need to force another line or switch things up or back it up with XYZ material...)

 

Openings are somewhat important in Bughouse, but, since things can change rapidly, not too important. Sometimes conservative and defensive is better. Sometimes being aggressive and rapid exchanges are better. (But, remember, the same as rapid exchanges on your board can lose to a lost exchange... the faster pieces are dropped on the other board, the faster the dynamics of that game change.)

 

You need a strong defensible opening, and not to give-up too much material, else it sets your team at a disadvantage ... especially against a team who knows their moves. 

 

OR, if you plan on exchanges at the outset... OR, you could be up against an opponent who acts as a "feeder" (of material) and your opening prep is shot, and you may not be fed material if your team member needs to go on the defensive.

 

It can be fun, most of the time, but sometimes you run across "pro" teams who walk the board as if it's GM playing Novice.

 

For the most part, I use the terms: "Vicious Team Sport" to describe Bughouse chess.

 

Whereas, in normal chess you get a feel for the clock and time per move count and only need to glance at it every-so-often... in Bughouse, you have a second clock. In Bughouse, you have a second board (like playing a simul, practically speaking). In Bughouse, you get extra pieces, they're not gone forever, and sometimes come back to haunt you like a gory horror movie.

 

A few other random stream-of-consciousness thoughts rolling around in my head... but this is what has been on my mind the last few days... for the most part.

 

I'd suggest trying to learn OTB, first, if you can. (Starts to make more sense that way.) Right now we're only generally playing 3-minute rounds on Live Chess.com, such that it's difficult to figure it all out at that pace.

 

Every wished you had a knight somewhere on the board, and it simply wasn't possible? Crazyhouse and Bughouse *can* (sometimes) grant you that wish.

 

In Crazyhouse, if you need a pawn to screw with the other king, and, on the other side of the board you can sacrifice a knight for that pawn... you do it... you take the pawn with the knight, knowing you're going to lose the knight (give it up for the other player to use)... and then drop that pawn and check the king and force it to move. And you do this hoping not to lose advantage, etc.

 

In Bughouse, you rely on a team member to do this on another board. Or, you do it for your team member. What your team member takes, you get, and what you take, your team member gets, and what your team member gives-up, your opponent gets, and what your opponent gives-up, your team member gets. Team sports are give-and-take -- take one for the team, a sacrifice, etc.

Avatar of neihaos

After the games I played so far I'm going to say only one thing: When there's nothing, don't wait for a pawn for half of your time in a 3 min game. Time is precious. You will know what I mean.  

Avatar of Martin0

The value of the pieces is very different from normal chess and their relative value changes more than in standard chess as well. Value of the pieces:

Pawn: 1

Knight, Bishop, Rook: 2

Queen: 4

 

With this in mind, don't get overexcited of trading a knight for a rook or trade 2 piece for a queen. But maybe more importantly, don't forget to look at your allies game where there might be some trades you should really try to make or really try to avoid. If your ally's king is under attack, you may not want to make any trades.

Avatar of SamCopeland

Two thoughts

  1. Look at partopp's (partner's opponent's) clock. Don't look at your opponent's clock. If you are ahead of partopps, you win all sit/stall situations and time trouble races.
  2. Don't sacsit, e.g. speculatively sacrifice pieces, sit, and then demand that your partner feed you endless streams of material. Unless the sac wins with material that you know your partner can provide, or you are comfortable playing on if no new pieces come, consider not sacing  It's a two player game; sacsitting abandons your partner to suffering joylessly each time, and they will probably be defending against the opponent's new pieces and can't help you out anyway.
Avatar of sebastian11

Thanks for the comments. I read Danny's tips for begginers and its a must read for us who just started playing this version of the game. 

Bughouse is the most fun and nerve wracking version of chess imo, what a rollercoaster ride!

Avatar of crosky

You guys should check out reddit.com/r/crazyhouse. There's a bunch of both bughouse and crazyhouse content there, especially in the stickied thread! And feel free to contribute your own happy.png

Avatar of Tigers2017

Bughouse is fricking easy. I'm top 50 in the world lol

Avatar of crosky

How do you know that joey? There's no leaderboard on chess.com as of yet, is there?

Avatar of MGleason

It's a lot of fun to drop pawn chains that wind their way into the heart of your opponents position.

Having central doubled pawns can help prevent that.  Or it's often worth trading a piece for two pawns.

Having an empty square on g2/g7 in front of a castled king can be deadly.  A pawn/bishop on h3/h6 can then support a queen or rook being dropped on g2/g7.  Or another pawn/bishop can be dropped on g2/g7 to shut the king back and threaten to drop a rook on h1/h8.  So plug any hole on g2/g7 as soon as possible, even if it means you have to sac a piece for only a pawn.

Avatar of Tigers2017

On pics croskie... I'm awesome.

Avatar of ChessMN16

Interesting article-in-the-form-of-stream-of-consciousness, cwfrank. I have to say, though, that knights are bit overrated in bug (for reference: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1t8_q1VJcKJdUxrR3owV1BKcjQ/view).

 

My personal tip: Knowing how to play against the SS (Sac and sit) tactic will seriously bring your rating up. Especially on chess.com, where there aren't that many strong bug players yet, SS is quite common. I'll write something in the future on fighting against SS, but it's relatively easy if you think about it...I'll leave it up to the reader to get creative happy.png.

Avatar of cwfrank
ChessMN16 wrote:

Interesting article-in-the-form-of-stream-of-consciousness, cwfrank. I have to say, though, that knights are bit overrated in bug.

 

Well, we'll have to disagree. Most people value knights in bug more than knights in standard chess.

 

Proper knight structure can be as nasty (if not worse than)... as pawn structure. Some of the better players I've played drop a knight (hanging), and then back it up the next move, and then drop another knight, such that to defend opens you up worse than reaping king-side pawns.

 

On the other hand, fair enough -- your own knights can interfere with drops and movement and prolong check-mating a king. (There is a delicate balance, but on quick time controls, is hard to discern.)

 

But if you got two (or three) knights wreaking havoc and making things difficult, and you have another one sitting to the side to replace one you need to sacrifice to maintain an attack and advantage... it can be harrowing. Add a drop-pawn to that mix during an attack... it's always a dangerous situation which is hard to avoid once you're either eating time, or able to sit and wait for the material to continue the attack. (The latter note per your sack-sit observation.)

 

Stream-of-Consciousness: Yeah, I like reading good SoC, and often end-up writing it to get thoughts out before they dissipate (wasting time trying to refine leads to loss of consciousness, like concentrating on a move or combo too much and not seeing the other part of the board), or... as one moment-of leads-to-the-next.

 

Avatar of winquit

I have started a blog (let's see how long this lasts) to help those who want some advice from a fellow novice bughouse player.

 

Am I allowed to post the link here? (its not a chess.com hosted blog)?

 

 

Avatar of ChessMN16

@cwfrank: It's just that people overvalue knights too much in bug / zh. They are better in these "drop variants," sure, but sometimes they're pretty useless. I never said I don't value / one shouldn't value them more than in orthodox chess.

 

I don't get what these strong players are doing...? Yeah, three knights protecting each other is pretty darn nice (If that's what you meant by "knight structure.").

 

The situation you described is where knights truly shine: when you have a whole army of pieces, you really need knights! For example, I might sometimes have two queens, a rook, four bishops, and 3 pawns, but to deliver the crushing blow, I really need those knights!

 

Yup, SOC makes for pleasurable reading to get into the mind of someone happy.png.

 

@winquit: I guess so? Go for it.

Avatar of winquit

Thanks for the interest ChessMN16. I think it would be prudent to wait for a moderator (not sure if you are a moderator or not) to allow that before posting a link.

 

If anyone would like to get the link off me just start a private conversation with me when I'm online and I will gladly provide it to you.

Avatar of ChessMN16

Hehehe no I'm not a mod, but the rules should be pretty lax if someone is just sending a link to his blog.

Avatar of chriswsh

Some Tips:

 

Piece Values: Pawn = 1, Knight = 2, Bishop = 2, Rook = 2, Queen = 4. You can "sac" much more often because it's not actually a sacrifice. But material is still important.

 

Being 30 seconds up on time is about a 4-point advantage.

 

There are three major classes of openings in bughouse, like chess: King Pawn, Queen Pawn and Alternate (Wing).

 

King pawn openings. These feature sharper, more tactical play. The two main setups are 1. e4 e5 and 1. e4 e6. After 1. e4 e5, the play centers around f2/f7, with the typical bishop sac happening on both sides in very sharp lines. White's first-move advantage often means black gets the first attack, because there are no pieces to drop before then, as in 1. e4 e5 2. Bb4 Bb5 3. Bxf7+!? Kf8 4. Nf3 Bxf2+ 5. Kf1 d5 6. Nxe5 N@h4. With the d pawn blocking in the c1 bishop, black's threat of p@h3, pxg2 and N@f4+ is strong enough to win a lot of games. And, at this point, black has only sacrificed a pawn for a potentially enduring initiative, as well as threats along the light squares after dxe4. The Ng8 is a surprisingly strong defensive piece. It can buy a move or two for black to develop the attack.

 

White might try instead 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Bb4 3. d4 cxd4 4. Bc4. If black defends f7 with 4...p@e6, 5. Nxd4 Bxd4 6. Qxd4 gets the pawn back with centralized pieces and pressure with N@g5 or N@h5. If black captured with the bishop on move 3 instead, capture immediately with the knight, and then possibly drop a knight on e5/f5/h5, a pawn on h6, develop the queen to g4, or develop the bishop to Bc4 (e.g. 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Bb4 3. d4 Bxd4 4. Nxd4 exd4 5. N@f5). Most of those moves give white a good initiative for at least 4-5 more moves, unless his partner trades everything. The queen move is best if low flow, and lines like 5. N@f5 B@f6 6. p@g5 take advantage of the newly weak g7 square.

 

In the 1. e4 e6 lines, white attacks the f7/g7 squares, while black turtles down initially, before attempting to counter-attack. These rely heavily on cooperation, so please talk to your partner. If black can goad white into sacrificing a bunch of material for no strong attack, they'll be much better of in the long run. A typical line might be 1. e4 d6 2. d4 d6 3. Nf3 Nf6 4. Ng5 Qe7 and now f7 is safe. The sac doesn't do much unless everything comes off the other board. After 5. Nxf7? Qxf7 6. N@g5 Qe7 7. p@e7+ Kd8, white has to attack e6 to break through. Meanwhile, e4 is hanging, and black can start an attack of her own with N@g4 to go straight for f2, or N@h4. For example,1. e4 d6 2. d4 d6 3. Nf3 Nf6 4. Ng5 Qe7 5. Nxf7 Qxf7 6. N@g5 Qe7 7. p@e7+ Kd8 8. Bc4 N@h4 9. d5 p@f3 B@h3 10. exd5 and black's threats of dxc4, Bxh3 and fxg2 give white a lot to think about.

 

Instead, white might prefer 1. e4 e6 2. d4 d6 3. Nc3 Nc6 4. Bc4 Be7 5. Nf3 Nf6 6. d5. Black often errs after 6...exd5 7. exd5. After 7. ... p@e6, it's the same attack on f7, but black is down a tempo. Neither 8. dxe6 Bxe6 9. p@d5 or 8. dxe6 fxe6 9. p@f7 Kf8 10. p@g5 Ng4 11. p@h6 are very fun for black. You'll be defending and shoring up your position for while, which can be good if white sits for pieces, and very bad if white gets those pieces.

 

This line can give better chances: 6...Ne5. After 7. Nxe5 dxe5 black now has enough space for ideas like N@h4 with pawn drops on f3 and g2. And p@e6 is no longer as scary: 8. p@e6 0-0 9. p@h6 gxh6 10. Bxh6 Ng4. After 11. Bxf8 Qxf8 black now has an attack on f2 and decent protection on f7. His light-square bishop, unlike white's, can support a pawn drop chain after the knight moves (or sacs). And if white plays 11. 0-0, 11. ...N@f5 attacks the bishop and prevents the queen drop mate, but you still have to deal with the light-square threats. On the other hand, white's traded enough that if black can control the kingside with piece drops, black will often win.

 

Saccing the knight on c6 is sometimes the better move, but then you're going to be turtling for a while.

 

Like with normal chess, e4 openings teach you a lot about the game. The 1. d4 d5 openings focus more on the b1-h7 and b8-h2 diagonals, and are more positional in nature. Both sides try to create trades which inch their pawns and pieces closer to the enemy king before a judicious sacrifice to win the game. White attacks on the dark squares, black attacks on the light.

 

I hope this helps! If people are interested, I can post more later. Oh, one last tip. Moving your c-pawn is rarely a good idea, and if you must, move it to c3/c6, not c4/c5. It creates too many holes otherwise.

 

(UPDATED: changed a line because I forgot a pawn was still on e6).
(UPDATED: fixed errors pointed out by chessMN16. Thanks!)

Avatar of ChessMN16

Beautiful post, chriswsh! I am a crazyhouse player who's only now playing online bughouse and realizing just how potent sacrifices on f7 are as compared to crazyhouse. You seem like a very strong player - what's your handle on FICS, if you don't mind me asking?

 

BTW, please join us on the reddit bughouse / crazyhouse community; I've posted some links there: https://www.reddit.com/r/crazyhouse/comments/533xc4/bughouse_links/

 

Some errors I've noticed:


"This line can give better chances: 6...Ne5. After 7. Nxe5 dxe5" Here, the White knight is actually on c3 and not f3.

 

"1. e4 e5 2. Bb4 Bb5 3. Bxf7+!? Kf8 4. Nf3 Bxf2+ 5. Kf1 d4 6. Nxe5 p@h3" Black plays d5 here and not d4.

 

"N@g4 to go straight for f2, or N@h4. For example,1. e4 d6 2. d4 d6 3. Nf3 Nf6 4. Ng5 Qe7 5. Nxf7 Qxf7 6. N@g5 Qe7 7. p@e7+ Kd8 8. Bc4 N@h5 9. d5 p@f3 B@h3 10. exd5 and black's threats of dxc4, Bxh3 and fxg2 give white a lot to think about."

In the line you give, on move 8, you say "8. N@h5." Surely you mean "8. N@h4," right?

 

Yes, I agree with you about c4. Especially in bughouse, this move is completely terrible.

 

Please, post more tips! Excellent job!

Avatar of winquit

There are some good tips here. I just want to mention that much like in regular chess where there are rules of thumb and exceptions, there are also exceptions in bughouse. I would tell someone who has just started playing bug not to move any pawns except the king pawn and queen pawn. Moving the king's bishop pawn can be fatal immediately. Having said that I would add the caveat that it is possible to play openings with moving the king's bishop pawn BUT IT MUST BE DONE WITH GREAT VIGILANCE.

 

An example to illustrate (I am playing white).

1. d4 d5 2. e3 Nc6 3. Bb5 e6 4. Ne2 Nf6 5. Nc3 Bb4 6. f3 0-0 7. Nf4 a6 8. Bxc6 b7xc6

Again I would add a disclaimer stating that this opening can easily backfire if my opponent had a lot of pieces to drop into my kingside and attack squares like f2 or g2.

What I have noticed over some time playing this opening (apart from the fact that it is not really a good opening) is that the pawn drop on f2 is harmless as long as I have already developed my g1 knight. This is because I can simply play a move like kf1 or ke2 when the pawn is dropped on the f2 square. The more immediate threat is when black tries to attack my pawn on f3  (e.g. drop pawn on g4 then play g4xf3 which forces me to play g2xf3)  that would result in my g2 square being vacant and available for piece drops. For me to play this opening I have noticed that before the impending attacking on f3 I have to prepare myself by means of playing ne2-->f4 and Qe2 and if there is enough time I can also throw in a rook move in the form of h1-->g1.

 

I think I should try to elaborate a bit more (graphically and visually) on my blog about this. There is also the c4/c5 opening which is actually quite decent. I have just started playing it so I am by no means an expert on it (the fact that my fics rating for bughouse is always around 1600-1700 says it all). I have seen some of the best on fics, and by that I mean someone called Interestsnone, playing this opening and perfectly handling the supposed risks presented by moving the c pawn.

 

What I would like to see is some of the heavy weights of the game (bughouse) giving their ideas on opening ideas but I guess there is no such thing as a free lunch so maybe its best to actually buy one of the bughouse books to get a glimpse into their world of ideas. On the other hand, watching these top players in action is free, so I would suggest that anyone wanting to learn good openings should observe as many of these games as possible.