RENAISSANCE MICRO-CRYSTALLINE WAX

It is simply amazing on my wood sets.  I read all the instructions and verbage on the can, it never says good for plastics. My question to all you experts is can you use it safely on plastic sets?  Please only answer if you know for sure or not. I guess my next step would be to email the manufacturer and see if I get a response.  

I found the contact email and web site.

info@picreator.co.uk

http://www.picreator.co.uk/articles/3_renaissance_wax.htm

Hey Mike tell us why its so amazing on your wood sets

GNM you can use it not only on wood but on leather and many other materials. I wipe it on and it needs no rest period etc. and you wipe it immediately off.  You have to buy a can of it to see the results in real time. It's cheap enough on Amazon. I also like the Feed N Wax by Howard Products but that is different.  The finest museums use this stuff to put on leather, ivory and other things in their museums.  Even leather bound books get a coat of this stuff. I only have one leather bound book from my book dealing days left (poker book) and if I keep it I will put a coat of Renaissance Wax on it. I am guessing when someone finds it 80 years from now the leather cover will look very very good.

Thanks for the good advice Mike, I guess I have to pick up a can!

I do not know how long I will go between applications but it might be a long long time. I think using it once a year might be over using it but need more advise from the manufacturer of the product. Whatever they answer me I will post it on this thread. 

cgrau recently posted a Drueke set spruced up with Renaissance Wax. It looked really nice.

my play icc my name habana chess nice gg

Sorry to necro this thread but I am looking at buying a can of this for my sets. A couple of questions:

1) Is it safe to use on "ebonized" sets?

2) Any woood sets it is not good to use on?

3) Anyone tried using it on plastic?

Yes, Yes, and Yes...

D2_To_D8, thanks for the reply.

Are those plastic pieces or ebonized pieces.

Have you used it on both?

More than welcome... Felt no need to do the plastic sets though, tested it though on a plastic piece with no problem. Most are so cheaply priced they're like disposable lighters... Don't own any ebonized sets currently, but only the genuine ebony articles... No problem what-so-ever, so we don't see it being any problem with ebonized sets as most, not all though, are lacquered and sealed well after staining. Done the Noj Dubrovnik and HOS Bones as well with zero issues. Great stuff...  

Yeah, I have one that I do not think is lacquered (not positive and it is becoming one of my favorite sets so I don't want to ruin it) and one I know is not lacquered (Mark of Westminister) because I have already rubbed some of the black off of it.

R--I have used it on a vintage Drueke plastic set. It looks like new now.

Wow! Thanks for those pics. Looks like I will pull the trigger.

I also saw where it is good for the boards, is that true?

Yes, but don't use it on any board that you're contemplating using a scratch cover like Olde English or Liquid Gold. They don't penetrate the wax. Treat the board first, then wax it.

Oh, excellent. I was wondering about that.

I also use a beeswax/mineral oil product made for cutting boards first, then the renaissance. I had purchased a couple of wooden sets and some parts that were more carved, like the knights and top of the rook still had a dry look about them. Treating them with the cutting board stuff first made them look really good.

It might be worth mentioning that it seems to change the appearance of the finish very little if at all. In other words, the shiny pieces will be shiny, and the matte or low luster items will stay that way, at least that's my experience. I put several coats on my laminated board, mostly because it has the notations on it and I don't want them to get scratched or rubbed off. I think that's one of the good things about it, it protects without affecting the original finish. Museums even use it on photographs to preserve those.