From Royal Chess Mall, their version of the F&S set in bud rosewood:
That's a very nice combination and when I see how good it looks I can't help thinking how unimportant the minor design details are in comparison to such a magnificently beautiful set. Nice collection of chess books too by the way.
If you don't mind me asking, was your experience with Royal Chess Mall satisfactory? I've just ordered a 4.1" set from them but haven't done any due diligence.
Kind regards
From Royal Chess Mall, their version of the F&S set in bud rosewood:
That's a very nice combination and when I see how good it looks I can't help thinking how unimportant the minor design details are in comparison to such a magnificently beautiful set. Nice collection of chess books too by the way.
If you don't mind me asking, was your experience with Royal Chess Mall satisfactory? I've just ordered a 4.1" set from them but haven't done any due diligence.
Kind regards
Although the carving and aesthetics of the woods are beautiful in both this set and a Sheesham Dubrovnik from them, both sets developed cracks in the light, boxwood pieces. I received satisfaction in both situations, but only after I took my complaints each time to a public message board.
@DrChessPain How long did it take to develop cracks?
Bump. Does anyone know if the original Fischer-Spassky 1972 (Jaques) set was weighted? I like the idea of unweighted sets (e.g. Royal Chess Mall's 1950s unweighted Dubrovnik is nice and I expect will have no cracking problems).
I believe they were weighted. The Jaques set I own from that period, which appears to be a very close match, has the following weights:
King=80g, Queen=63g, Bishop=55g Knight=63g, Rook=52g, Pawn=30g.
You are correct that an unweighted set is much less likely to crack, because risk of cracking increases greatly if the weights are too tightly fitted, and doesn't give the wood room to shrink as atmospheric conditions change with location and season. Other factors can have even greater significance, for example if the wood was properly cured, or if the set is kept in a particularly dry environment. For example, homes in warm dry climates that typically use the kind of air conditioning that does not control humidity (known as comfort cooling) can often result in low humidity levels that cause serious problems for even well cured wood. If the weights are also too tight that's the perfect storm. The chess manufacturers know all this and if they supply well cured pieces with properly fitting weights, there shouldn't be a problem if they are then stored at a consistent 50% humidity. Large fluctuations throughout the year can also be a big problem. If you have difficulty maintaining the right conditions throughout the year, one thing I've tried is to store my most precious sets in high quality cigar boxes that come with built in humidifier. However, I recommend the relatively cheap electronic Temp/Humidity sensors that allow you to measure indoor conditions and have a remote sensor for outdoors, that can then be fitted into the box where the pieces are stored. Keeping an eye on the conditions where you keep your chess sets, on a monthly basis is a good idea, particularly for high value sets and will give you time to take corrective measures before any damage is done. So far after 40 years collecting and hundreds of sets, I've only ever had one individual piece (King) crack on a new set and it did so in the first year in its new home.
I now much prefer to buy second hand sets that are well aged in a similar climate to mine and have thus stood the test of time.
40 years collecting and hundreds of sets, BishopsPawn3 may I ask where do you put them all ? 
I have a spare room where I can display up to 20 chess sets on their boards, I've managed 25, but that's a bit tight. However, I discovered early on that displaying them was problematic, mainly due to dust and sunlight. After the first year, I decided to put some sets and boards away, it took me several days just to dust and polish everything and I realised that sunlight can cause subtle variations in the colour of the pieces and boards. These days I only have one set out for a few days at a time, to prevent dust accumulation and I never place them in direct sunlight. I use each set in rotation for playing or studying and then swap it for another set and board combination. My favorites may stay out a bit longer and more frequently. The pieces and boards I am not using are all nicely stored and these days my biggest problem is remembering what I have, and then where they are. I still have the first set I purchased and still use it occasionally. It hasn't cracked, but one of the queens developed a slight curvature, a defect I find is more common than cracking and fortunately confined to the cheaper sets.
I have a spare room where I can display up to 20 chess sets on their boards, I've managed 25, but that's a bit tight. However, I discovered early on that displaying them was problematic, mainly due to dust and sunlight. After the first year, I decided to put some sets and boards away, it took me several days just to dust and polish everything and I realised that sunlight can cause subtle variations in the colour of the pieces and boards. These days I only have one set out for a few days at a time, to prevent dust accumulation and I never place them in direct sunlight. I use each set in rotation for playing or studying and then swap it for another set and board combination. My favorites may stay out a bit longer and more frequently. The pieces and boards I am not using are all nicely stored and these days my biggest problem is remembering what I have, and then where they are. I still have the first set I purchased and still use it occasionally. It hasn't cracked, but one of the queens developed a slight curvature, a defect I find is more common than cracking and fortunately confined to the cheaper sets.
Hey thanks BishopsPawn3 Mind you with forty years of collecting , I guess you must have some real gems .
From Royal Chess Mall, their version of the F&S set in bud rosewood: