1. f4 is psychological weapon. You may lure devoted Sicilian player into King's Gambit via transposition from the From.>>>
I agree and I made that point earlier. It's a poor psychological weapon against the prepared player. I usually answer 1. f4 with 1. ...c5. If white eventually plays e4 then behold! We have a Sicilian! In practice white often takes two moves to accomplish e4. In the meantime I just pretend it's a Sicilian.
I don't get your logic.
1.f4 c5 2.Nf3 and now what?
Do you realize that if you allow 3.e4 then white has an "ideal" Grand Prix attack? (he has avoided both the Tal gambit, and committing his knight at c3).
When I was pretty new, and unprepared for 1.f4, I thought for a while and play like a QGD classical setup, which works fine. (d5 e6 Nf6 Be7)
Then I saw it again later, and still unprepared, I set up like a dragon sicilian, which later it turned into a hedgehog like structure. (c5 d6 g6 Nf6 Bg7)
The annoying thing for white, IMO, is even knowing nothing not only can black get a fine middlegame position, but black gets to choose the type he wants. The only people who play the from, I assume, are people who have definitely prepped the line, so I don't think you're going to surprise them on move 2 or something like that
Pfren, the logic is that the "ideal" G.P. attack isn't all that good and I've developed my own system against it, winning many games against 2000 rated players. These days I don't play against so many 2300s as I did. If they play e4 that's OK, or I wouldn't play c5. So probably 1.f4 ... c5 2. Nf3 ... e6 or a6.
I read all the posts and what I understood is the following:
With Black avoid an early 3...c5 (after 2...d5) because White could play e3, Bb5, Bxc6/Bxd7 to increase his control over e5 (Ne5 later).
With Black avoid 2...c5 because White gets a good version of the Grand Prix attack (without a Knight blocking c3 and avoiding the Tal Gambit).
But that only tells what Black should avoid. Not so much which ideas White has when he plays 1.f4...
What are the general ideas of the classical Bird (with e3 and Be2)? To play Qe1, e4 later when he can? Or to attack with Qe1-Qh4, Ng5, f5, Bh6, Bxg7, f5xg6, Rxf6, Qxh7#? ;-)
What are the general ideas of the Leningrad Bird (with g3 and Bg2)?
I think I've come to the conclusion that playing any opening is worthwhile for a time. It teaches you more about the game and about what your style of play is. Besides nobody knows the refutation or best lines to any openings. Sometimes surprise value is on your side. I was playing a game online here and did the exchange variation for queens gambit declined and beat a much higher rated player. They seemed to take much more time after I took the pawn to think how they were going to proceed.
Why is 1. f4 d5 2. Nf3 g6 good? Because it's the most flexible? 2...Nf6 instead of 2...g6 would be equally flexible no?
Nice trick in that game, I just saw a Lasker game with that setup and finish. Is it called Lasker sacrifice/mate? Or Pillburry attack (has also sth. to do with two bishops).
I have no idea how it's called, it's my own invention after hundreds of Bird games. Bd3 is bad move (or at least not good enough) but sometimes it works fine, position is unexpected.
2...g6 is good because it allows Bg7 and will delay b3 for white. I very much dont like it
In setup I mostly play (pawns at e3-f4-g2) queen is moved to kingside for attack via e1. With g6/Bg7 there is no attack on kingside and game wont be finished so fast.
That one! Curtis's Opening, maybe? I knew someone called David Curtis who played it all the time in English congresses. f3, g3, Nh3, Nf2, Bg2, d3, c3 and 0-0.
Thanks LukeLol for reminding us that historical game. I am confused with your personal profile. I found your score is 1800 in every category, in daily chess, blitz, bullet and rapid. But when we go to analyse, we find that the no of your played game is zero, how it is possible? Can you explain it please?
1800 is the default for people who tell them they're good, I think. Not much point though. I started at 1200 like most people have to. It's a bit difficult to get games at first .... you have to challenge people at random. Once you're over 1600, people take you slightly more seriously. I found that once you're over 2150, you're in the world of masters, people who spend hours on one move and, of course, engine users. It's difficult to honestly maintain a rating of over 2150, I found, unless you have more talent and willingness to work than I do.
1. f4 is psychological weapon. You may lure devoted Sicilian player into King's Gambit via transposition from the From.>>>
I agree and I made that point earlier. It's a poor psychological weapon against the prepared player. I usually answer 1. f4 with 1. ...c5. If white eventually plays e4 then behold! We have a Sicilian! In practice white often takes two moves to accomplish e4. In the meantime I just pretend it's a Sicilian.
I don't get your logic.
1.f4 c5 2.Nf3 and now what?
Do you realize that if you allow 3.e4 then white has an "ideal" Grand Prix attack? (he has avoided both the Tal gambit, and committing his knight at c3).
When I was pretty new, and unprepared for 1.f4, I thought for a while and play like a QGD classical setup, which works fine. (d5 e6 Nf6 Be7)
Then I saw it again later, and still unprepared, I set up like a dragon sicilian, which later it turned into a hedgehog like structure. (c5 d6 g6 Nf6 Bg7)
The annoying thing for white, IMO, is even knowing nothing not only can black get a fine middlegame position, but black gets to choose the type he wants. The only people who play the from, I assume, are people who have definitely prepped the line, so I don't think you're going to surprise them on move 2 or something like that![tongue.png]( "tongue")
Pfren, the logic is that the "ideal" G.P. attack isn't all that good and I've developed my own system against it, winning many games against 2000 rated players. These days I don't play against so many 2300s as I did. If they play e4 that's OK, or I wouldn't play c5. So probably 1.f4 ... c5 2. Nf3 ... e6 or a6.
I read all the posts and what I understood is the following:
But that only tells what Black should avoid. Not so much which ideas White has when he plays 1.f4...
I think I've come to the conclusion that playing any opening is worthwhile for a time. It teaches you more about the game and about what your style of play is. Besides nobody knows the refutation or best lines to any openings. Sometimes surprise value is on your side. I was playing a game online here and did the exchange variation for queens gambit declined and beat a much higher rated player. They seemed to take much more time after I took the pawn to think how they were going to proceed.
@LukeLol
With black, best line is 1. f4 d5 2. Nf3 g6 . . .
With white, I mostly hope for From's Gambit, but in case of early c5, Bb5 is very good![happy.png]( "happy")
White bishop trade on c6 . . .
Or, play hope chess and finish game quickly with some luck:
There is more "dirty" tricks, this one is my favorite![happy.png]( "happy")
Bird is not best idea to start with if You play daily chess.
Why is 1. f4 d5 2. Nf3 g6 good? Because it's the most flexible? 2...Nf6 instead of 2...g6 would be equally flexible no?
Nice trick in that game, I just saw a Lasker game with that setup and finish. Is it called Lasker sacrifice/mate? Or Pillburry attack (has also sth. to do with two bishops).
I have no idea how it's called, it's my own invention after hundreds of Bird games. Bd3 is bad move (or at least not good enough) but sometimes it works fine, position is unexpected.
2...g6 is good because it allows Bg7 and will delay b3 for white. I very much dont like it![grin.png]( "grin")
In setup I mostly play (pawns at e3-f4-g2) queen is moved to kingside for attack via e1. With g6/Bg7 there is no attack on kingside and game wont be finished so fast.
That one! Curtis's Opening, maybe? I knew someone called David Curtis who played it all the time in English congresses. f3, g3, Nh3, Nf2, Bg2, d3, c3 and 0-0.
That's the Lasker game I meant. It's called the Lasker double bishop sacrifice.
I never played a game here, 1800 seems to be the default rating. I am only here to discuss chess topics.
1800 is the default for people who tell them they're good, I think. Not much point though. I started at 1200 like most people have to. It's a bit difficult to get games at first .... you have to challenge people at random. Once you're over 1600, people take you slightly more seriously. I found that once you're over 2150, you're in the world of masters, people who spend hours on one move and, of course, engine users. It's difficult to honestly maintain a rating of over 2150, I found, unless you have more talent and willingness to work than I do.